Phildaupho

I have heard the explanations but I still find it strange that Tamiya and Revell of Germany continue to mold their kits in colored plastic when every serious builder will paint every part. I much prefer the white plastic in Revell of North America Ferrari kits.

Very well done. The perfect combination of color, stance and parts.

Yuri - You build incredibly realistic models cars but I am equally impressed with your photography. I understand the outdoor photos but how do you create such realistic photos such as the Studebaker. It looks like it could be from a Studebaker sales brochure. Regards from Canada

You really are a scale master of big and small

I had a pretty productive model car building year in 2014. I completed the five pictured here plus an entry for Mark Gustavson’s Custom Clinic. I got a couple of almost done, a few well started, a pre-decorated Woody built on a camping trip and a bare metal 1/43 Deuce highboy. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Andy - Both the coupe and sedan are 1/24. I have not researched to see if 1/1 '37 sedans were actually wider than '36 coupes but I did what I had to do to make it work. Jimmy Flintstone makes a resin 1/25 flatback.

Joe - This a 1/1 '36 which I hope my model will look like someday Hosted on Fotki

Seasons Greetings to all participants on the Model Cars magazine Forum. I thoroughly enjoy all the model car projects from around the world and the interesting commentary on model car subjects. While waiting to get inspired to start painting a current project, I decided to try and create a ’36 Ford Flatback Sedan by grafting the roof section of a Revell 1/24 ’37 Sedan onto the body of a Revell 1/24 ’36 Coupe. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Slicing and dicing to create my own body is probably my favorite aspect of model car building so I knew this would be fun. I was kind of surprised to find that the ’37 Sedan was about 4 scale inches wider than the ’36 so I had to take a corresponding longitudinal section out of the sedan roof. With the centre section of the ’37 rear window gone it was close to matching the shape of a ’36 rear window but not quite so I cut in the window from the ’36 Coupe. It is going to take a bunch of putty and Evergreen half round to complete the transformation but overall I am pretty pleased with how this conversion turned out. This will become a future street-rod with running gear and interior from the ’37 kit. I need a 1/25 Flatback for another project I have in mind but will try the Jimmy Flintstone resin ’36 for that.

You have captured that "look" from my favorite era of hot rodding perfectly.

Very impressed with your progress so far especially your use of recycled parts. It is probably very similar to how the real car was built.

Very impressive models. Keep up the great work.

Probably the best built Mysterion I have seen

Great looking classic stock car. One of my favorite body styles of the era. How did you do the ink jet white decals? Did you cut around each one individually?

Incredibly well done build. Congratulations.

The 59 Pontiac has always been a dream car of mine as they make such a radical looking mild custom with only lowering, wheels and a nice paint job.

Very nice model of an extremely good looking racecar

Fabulous looking dragster. I love the shape of 27 T's and have been wanting to acquire bodies to build both a roadster and coupe.

Jesse - In regard to getting my Model-A low, I learnt quite a bit building this model. The easiest step was gaining lowness by modifying the front axle and rear spring. I removed any tabs and posts that got in the way and opened up the mounting slots to allow both front and rear springs to sit deeper in the cross members. As for Z-ing the Model-A frame, if I were going to do it again I would do both forward and rear Zs further back. Doing the forward Z at about the firewall will give more ground clearance to the oil pan and doing the rear Z closer to the rear cross member leaves a flat floor in the interior for seat mounting. The Zs were done by making a 45-degree cut to the frame. I draw an N shape and cut the diagonal. If you only want to Z the width of the frame you just glue the cut part on top of the remaining frame lined up with the vertical lines. In back I added an extra frame width and in retrospect could have added two or three widths to get the hot-rod lower in back. Once the frame was done I made new floorboards from sheet plastic. The car was channelled by cutting the firewall where it was to sit on the frame and having inner mounting blocks to support the rear of the frame. I also cut the inner door panels by the amount the car was channelled. I hope this helps. Hosted on Fotki

Chuck as I mentioned in my on The Workbench post http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=82814&hl= I was hoping to use the F-1 windshield but was surprised at how much narrower it is than the 41. That being the case I joined the two cowls just under the 41 windshield and faired everything together with putty. More photos at http://public.fotki.com/phildaupho/1/1950-ford-f-1-woody/

I am glad you all like it as I really enjoyed the build. Here is a view of the front end. Hosted on Fotki

A-Steel - 1930 Ford Coupe chopped & channelled I combined a stock Monogram 1/24 30 Ford Coupe and used hot-rod parts from the Revell 1/24 30 Ford Woody Street Rod 2n1 and my parts box - Top chopped about 3.5 scale inches - Body work intentionally has imperfections like it still needs work before it gets a paint job - Chassis Zd about 3.25 scale inches in front and 5.5 inches in the rear. Also gained some additional lowering of front and rear springs - Keep chrome to a minimum until funds are saved to pay the chrome shop - I went with a bare steel finish using Metalizer paint steel over burnt metal - Before final attachment of the red Kelsey-Hayes wire-wheels, just for fun I tried three other wheel designs original wheels, chrome reverse and big diameter Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Good looking racecar model. I would like to see this kit reissued. I have seen a restored Monza race at vintage events and was very impressed.

The Alfa looks wonderful. I really like seeing the structure of the car/model under its skin

You did a fantastic job converting a drag car back to stock configuration. Did you use the Hemi Under Glass? I have been wanting to build a Trans-Am version of the Barracuda so would have to do a similar conversion.