ChrisPflug

Seems like the thread is straying from kits so terrible you love them in a twisted sort of way to terrible kits we hate

The main theme of the constructive criticsm offered was that a bit more time and effort would have produced more pleasing results. As far as workmanship- it's tough to see how the subject matter is relevent- awkwardly fitting parts, color choices that may not be appealing to many and even was seems to be sloppy photography will bring similar reponses whether the model is a 30s Cord or popular muscle car.

I'll have to put a vote in for the ever popular Old Revell "opening everything" Chevys-love em Actually find it easier to love a really terrible kit as opposed to the "almost" good Really hate the whole Monogram 80's series of 1/24 musclecars and 78-80 F bodies- even though the fit is decent and there is a good attempt at detail the molded in underhood features and every one having some part of the body just enough "off" somewhere or another to scream "model" ruin them for me For a modeler the only thing that seems important is a decent body to start with- "Terrible" can often mean more fun lead to more creativity

The color's not an issue for me- do hate the overly shiny, obviously vinyl and usually oversize "spiders" whether black, blue, purple or orange Having spent some time working at the local speed shop years ago I can't certainly attest to the popularity of the inexpensive yellow "Super Stock" Accel wires (they may be better than some AutoZone stuff but are a far cry from OEM quality in the 1:1 world) Even the "direct fits" didn't fit too well but every box came with a set of cheap plastic separator clips- "custom" routing is a must for accurate yellow Accel wires in scale- maybe even simulated black tape around the burned boots

How about extending the years to '74 or so- My next planned Charger and Camaro projects were both '72 models (and both with big blocks- a bit detuned but still some muscle)

A couple of green machines- Monte in vintage Dupli-Color and '69 440 Dart

I've always liked the AMT Nova box art- made the contents of the box even more disappointing

I think he was talking about just the tire lettering rather than the decals for the car Hadn't researched them much- to me that "flat" looks seems to give a "die cast" look to the model

I've seen those decal sheets on eBay, not sure about a "regular retail" source

If it seems rough or there's a lot of orange peel you'd color sand it first Polishing kits work great with lacquer Another great thing is it dries quickly, usually before stray dust lands in it

Normally you'll need to polish it- it's a tough finish, though and should polish out nicely This is rattle can Duplicolor- polished out with no clear coat

Easy- the Monro-Matic line was completely replaced by the gas charged Monroe-Matic Plus line years ago. The paint was also changed to a darker, water based blue paint from the brighter metallic shade

If you look closely the shocks are an exact replica of late 60s-early 70s Monroe Monro-Matics First the kit shocks were primed- then painted with a medium blue Dupli Color

Race Hemi Orange !!! (And I did try to quietly correct the hugger spelling earlier..... Although a Huggar Orange Camero with Cragers and Konis would be sweet

A bit late now and not meaning to nit-pick but on the Plymouth 440 six barrel had the carbs mounted with the float bowls facing forward- your nicely detailed carburetors are backwards The AMT '71 Duster has a really nice two piece carb setup with nicely detailed vacuum pots for the secondary carbs- these are usually pretty easy to find and make a nice upgrade for future projects The 340 out of the Duster kit might also be a good basis for afuture, popular aftermarket resin part/kit

Seemed to be a lull in the thread I'm very guilty of retaining all sorts of pretty much useless information and enjoy buiding replica stock models after what's probably excessive research with all kinds of correct details I, however, can appreciate that the majority really isn't as hung up on the details or arcane trivia, but view modelling as a fun hobby and can think a model looks great even with "glaring errors" This particular thread is even more ridiculous in that the subject isn't even a real "factory" car- these were slapped together with the intent many of the "correct details" would be replaced by the owner and raced Interviews from the time confirm the engines were hastily slapped together with the full expectation they would be torn down and blueprinted by the racer before competition- kind of makes "factory color" seem silly.

Yeah- certainly would want to make sure you did plenty of research on such an important subject before posting inaccurate information leading to a real tragedy It's been a few years since I looked at one "in person" and I'm going of memory rather than "research" here but I'm pretty sure the Max Wedge blocks I've seen were pretty standard, not cross bolted, the differences being the bore notches and the threaded hole for the oil pickup being a size larger None of which being particularly relevent to building a model car

Nice results after really starting out at a disadvantage with this kit- your work seems to be getting better all the time Might be a few small issues, but if you nailed everything on a build it would pretty much kill the motivation to improve the next

What else is there other than painting a set of kit shocks Hugger orange?

Sometimes memories fade as well The "Race Hemi Orange" color from Chrysler is a bright, almost yellow orange while the "Street" is much redder- the same color as a hi-perf wedge engine. Worked on plenty of 1:1s in my time as well If I think of it I'll snap a couple pics of 1:1 engine parts painted with the Mopar "restoration" spray paint described

The hardtop was previously packaged as a Revell kit The convertible was labeled "Monogram" but from the 90's "Revell- Monogram" era- The Pace Car version of the kit was sold as "Revell-Monogram" The "Real" Monogram kit referred to in the original post was the 1/24 street machine/Badman tool (which was recently sold as a "Streetburners" Revell kit ) ....Not to be confused with the "classic" Revell opening everything '55 hardtop and its "Hot Rod" reissues

Believe that one is the "new" hardtop (based on the "older" convertible)- the nice modern tool anyways

(This will probably be taken as some sort of criticism- just adding a couple comments about the 1:1 cars as a former owner- but the wheels would be more accurate with the dog dish hubcaps- the centers are incorrect for the stock steel wheels and the rear axle on a pre-'65 car would have tapered rather than flanged shafts- the end of the shaft and a large nut would be visible in the center of the rear wheels in real life None of this means much as far a s building a decent model- just adding soma trivia about these cars Sorry about the criticism and "lack of suggestions for fixing errors"- figured you might build another model with a big block Mopar in the future and may want it to be more accurate since you took the time to do plug wires on this one- didn't really think you'd change the ones you'd already glued and didn't think the "fix" was complicated enough to require a description Same amount of work to glue the plug wires to the factory plug location as the to the wrong spot on your next build-

Unfortunately you've got the spark plugs spaced incorrectly (which really seems to stand out with the Max Wedge manifolds)- LA engines are spaced similar to that but big blocks have the spark plugs evenly spaced along the head

Actually the roof is about the only part the resembles a '69 Camaro from that angle Are you thinking of a late 4 door hardtop Corvair? maybe it does look a bit similar- not so much a coupe