Agent G

Thank you sir, here's a bit more. Starting the work week tomorrow so we might be stuck at this stage for a while. G

Absolutely. Photos are good, but that car simply jumps at you from the table. G

Wait no more Austin. Here's the real deal, it's an '89 but you get the idea. Here's where I'm at. I used the radio/siren box from a Lindbergh CV. The K55 radar is scratchbuilt. This will give an idea how it will look. Here's the radio and mic mounted. More to come later. G

Gorgeous. G

You know I think I'd just use some fine copper wire and paint it. You can bend it down for a natural drape. Everything like thread or floss just won't hang naturally. G

In North St Louis, definately. G

Red is hard anyway you look at it (pun intended). Hard to photograph, hard to paint and real hard to get out of the AB or brush. Your Mustang is looking devine. I had a Toreador Red Grand Marquis and that car just glowed. This build looks the same. G

Darn Missouri troopers are always doing something strange. I heard the MSHP decided that these would be worth more sold outright after their police careers were over. They felt the cars would bring more money with something other than gray/black interiors. *edit for clarification* MSHP always and still rotates cars at 85,000 miles. Other police agencies get first dibs on the "used cars", all except these. G

I got busy with the airbrush yesterday and finished the interior. This is a mock up without any police equipment. G

Laquer thinner tastes exactly like Slivovits. I assembled a track run for a Sherman tank that was comprised of 4 pieces per track link x 78 links. They were articulated after building them carefully. I put one run on the tank backwards.......................................... G

Microscale's Micro Set and Micro Sol are in the same bottle but Micro Sol has a red label. Microscale's Liquid Decal Film is also in the same bottle and has blue labeling. Imagine my surprise when I brushed a layer of decal film onto a surface and watched the acrylic paint dissolve. Thank goodness it self levels and dries rapidly. Also thank goodness a large decal will go over that spot. Used a can of flat white instead of gloss white once. Not a real issue, a little clear coat remedied that, but man was I surprised when it dried dead flat. There were days I painted everything but the model. NEVER NEVER NEVER drink a can of Coke while building. I used an empty 12 oz can for dirty laquer thinner once. Drank that frikkin' thing too.............................. G

X2 this is quite informative and the build is looking great. I drove nearly every iteration of CVPI from the first time they began using the Crown Victoria name again. I even had a '79 LTD remember that one? It later became the LTD Crown Victoria and eventually the CVPI. The '92-'97 CV's were solid performers as urban cop cars. The cars were quite nimble for their size, but lacked the low end grunt needed in the city stop sign to stop sign drag races we had on hot calls. Just about the time that 4.6 started pulling you were shutting down for another intersection. Traffic guys however loved them, I never heard any complaints about the car being squirrelly at speed as some troopers claimed. They did burn oil by the quart though. 24/7/365 operation in a city police department took it's toll. Every CVPI I ever saw or drove required constant monitoring of the oil after about 15,000 miles. Didn't see a lot of transmission issues, maybe we just didn't cause those. 1999 and up had a better torque curve for urban areas, and the Watts link rear end supposedly helped handling. All I know is it allowed the rear end to step out and slide with little or no warning. The car stayed positively flat, no body roll, but the rear end just left. I performed a left right left transition through traffic one evening at about 30 mph running red lights and siren. I lost the rear end as I made that last swerve left ino the next lane. I'm glad no one was close...... G

I only pick on you because, well, MrsG really likes you. G

and a custom hand airbrushed laquer paint job unobtainable by mere mortals.................................................. When Jonathan said he was building one of these I darn near spit my coffee out. After " Barney the Olds " I cannot imagine what this will turn out like. "Fast and Furious" will surely become "Slow and Delirious". G

Jonathan the engine is Valspar enamel primer straight from the can. To my eye it's a good match to the references posted here in another thread. The tranny is Tamiya "Metallic Gray" acrylic drybrushed with MM "Aluminum" enamel. This is the stuff I used, I think I bought it at a Michaels? or Wal Mart. http://compare.ebay.com/like/270417128847?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar Brad I'm planning three builds myself. MSHP, NHP and CHP. All three are quite unique. G

Charlie it looks like a good solid build will result straight from the box. The engine is just super and the interior is nothing to sneeze at. I bet with proper care and handling, marked as a copcar or with factory correct paint, the majority of viewers won't recognize the errors. I won't place a number to that percentage, my lovely wife spotted the inconsistencies as I pulled the body from the box. She's a car person, not a model builder, and knows Mustangs. I hadn't said anything and she noticed it right away. Jonathan, Danno, get cracking my friends. G

X2 May you have fair winds and following seas shipmate. G

That Mars bar in the Cop Out kit is perfect for a '70's period Chicago car. G

The two of you are already there. G

I built this awhile ago for another GB on an armor forum and thought you all might want a glimpse. It's an after the fall/post apocalypse/new world type of build. I used a 1/35th scale Hobby Boss armored car, added all the additional armor, and scratched the radar dish and mount. The desert camo fit into my plan for a wasteland scenario. UANA stands for Utah Arizona Nevada Alliance. Here it is prior to paint. Everything that's not gray plastic is something I added or built. G

and I should listen to you why? G

So, so much reference material. Volumes and volumes as well as many, many personally owned rides. I am taking copius notes and will attempt the same remedy with the next kit. G

That's the point, he did it without polishing the paint. Fabulous work sir, I applaud you. G

Thanks Matt. I base coated them with an acrylic dark brown, then used a red brown thinned out with acrylic thinner and washed on. I let that dry and then drybrushed a light coat of MM "Jet Exhaust". The base was Polly Scale "Railroad Tie Brown", the red brown was MM Acrylic "Rust" but any brand/color will do. It's the Jet Exhaust color that makes it pop, it's a silver/gold bronzish color which is great for cars. Highly recommended. G

Again, so what? G