Erik Smith

Super glue or epoxy or Future or...any glue or glue type substance that does not rely on melting the plastic.

Welcome back, comrade. Whenever I see a Tulio model in the "under glass" section, I know it's worth a look. I really hope the next decade fares better for you than the end of the last one. On to 2021.

Oh, those are all pretty cool. Great photography also. You did great job focusing on some critical aesthetics and composition in both the models and photos. I really like the attention to wheel placement and ride height, makes for a very pleasing look.

Looks like a decent little kit, and cool work on the chassis. Looks like it comes with some old Fujimi Pirelli tires with a little too much sidewall, but they fill the wells okay. I like that little turn vise thing you have.

I just mix until I get the look a want. I don’t pre mix a bunch, just enough to do the job I’m working on. I use a little paint pallet, squirt in a little Future, add acrylic paint. Add more as needed. I don’t recall if Harry mixed at a certain ratio either, but maybe I’ll surf back into one of his works and see.

Amazon has global sellers. You have to watch the date the item may arrive - sometimes sellers give months in the timeline.

A tip I learned from Harry P’s old fantastic brass era cars was mixing Future with acrylic paint. Works great on chrome or brass. I use cheap craft store acrylic paints and Tamiya acrylics - seems to mix fine with both. edit - I see the article above, which is great, mentions mixing with Future.

Way over done, but basic process is there. Look at actual exhaust like in your photos above. I use the Alclad version - they have a whole range of colors for heat coloration. It takes such a small amount I think I’ve had my alclad paints for ten years and there still 3/4 full.

Yeah, unless you are trying to rebuild something built by “modern” techniques, this is what you will deal with. Like others above, the freezer trick has never done anything for me - except take away space for cocktail ice. The only saving graces are chrome and painted surfaces - if the builder didn’t scrape, you can usually pop them apart. I have had some success with razor blade type saw blades - just cutting or scoring enough to break the plastic apart. Most techniques will require repair. Chances are, though, the time and effort are worth it because you should be doing it on a rare or hard to find kit, so alternatives are in short supply.

Keeps getting better and better.

Would love to see that one again. I sold mine years ago and, of course, regret that. It’s a very detailed kit, looks like it would be a little finicky, but it’s a cool wagon.

The new Academy Pony encouraged me to get this too, adding to the exciting display possibilities of four door Korean cars.

MPC only did a 77-80 Nova. The Pontiac’s were 75, 76, 77 - so, I guess the mold was changed after the 77 Pontiac? I wouldn’t mind if they backdated the Nova to 77 either. Is there much to change?

Very nice! Beautiful paint job.

Mask and paint for the cleanest look. Tamiya makes a magical tape for curves. Or you can use BMF and reverse the normal procedure - apply as normal but peal away BMF on the trim portion, then paint.

Looks like the AMT 76. MPC didn't do a 76, but I think 76 and 77 Novas look the same...MOL? That body almost has nice patina.

Yeah, Ballzanos is a pretty good seller. They usually have very reasonable shipping costs too.

Was the Pontiac changed to the Nova for the 77 model year? I thought they had concurrent releases, maybe not. Yes, it's a 76, but at least two people really wanted a mid 70s Pontiac:

I like the looks of those 65 Ramblers! Not an easy one to find.

Fireball Modelworks also does a 13" four lug set with tires, separate lug nuts and center caps.

Search here: https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/car/ they provide high resolution photos of model contents and instruction sheets.

Tamiya BMW 636CSi - three versions.

Tamiya Skyline 2000 GT-R - two versions.

LS3 Whipple Supercharger from Ron Olsen on Shapeways