Erik Smith

Yeah - I have used Rustoleum "Textured" paint. You can also spray from a distance so the paint dries more before hitting the model - easier with an airbrush, but possible with a can.

Yeah, wheels tend to catch bubbles on the edge of the outer rim and lug nuts - that's when I use a toothpick to pick the bubbles out. I switched from the brown alumilite to their white - it sets up slower and allows time to get at the bubbles trapped in the trouble spots. I don't think a pressure pot is necessary with simple casting - helps, but you can do just fine without.

Where are the bubbles showing up? Sometimes you can run a slightly dulled toothpick into the resin in the mold before it sets to break bubbles from small cavities. You can make a pressure pot too...mine was about $75...

I have purchased two cars in the last year - one brand new, one used - both from dealers. Besides it being a tiring process - does it really take four hours to finish up all this paperwork? When I sell a car, money, sign, bye! - it was a painless experience. They throw lots of numbers at you, but just focus on one number - total price. You should already know the financing specifics, so all the other stuff is just smoke and mirrors. Tell the finance guy "no" on everything. It's a hard sell - they try and make you feel foolish and stupid, but they are just greedy little trolls! My car came with a 10 year, 100,000 mile warranty - I don't need to extend that for $2367. Move on, bro. The internet is huge in researching and comparing prices. Yes, I would buy a car online.

Don't lump all manufacturers together. Aoshima - who has much higher quality standards than Revell (I would put them right up there with Tamiya)- actually supplies the correct parts to adjust ride height in their Rocket Bunny kits - a small, but noticeable change. Revell operates on a different business model and sells to a different base.

Yes to 66 and 67 stock versions. That '68 is great - my favorite year for box art too.

My 2013 subcompact weighs 2750...AND it has all the airbags(6) and electronics AND design engineering to reduce cabin intrusion in an accident AND doesn't require a tune up for 100,000 miles AND...well, let's not digress too far from a model "review"...

The tow truck looks cool. Those are really nice kits too.

Cars are exactly the same - orange and blue. Blue has clear glass, orange tinted (as mentioned above). Decal sheet is different.

Problem I had with the NEO is the rubber grommets that seal the tips. The "real" Iwata brushes use compression for sealing. I toasted the rubber one on the NEO after my first tear down. Returned it and bought another Eclipse. After about three years of use, I haven't had to buy one part for either Eclipse.

Try CA remover. If that doesn't work, try sanding and polishing. Super glue doesn't eat into plastic like solvent glue, so you might be able to save it.

What kind of glue?

$50 bucks is no steal on it. I am one of the "you get what you pay for" types, so... Save up another $50 and get a good AB that will last and had replacement parts readily available. There really is a difference. Unless you don't plan on using it much...but still...

That was from a completely unrelated post! PB kept posting the same pic no matter what code I copied. Fixed it now...

Chassis getting close to completion: I really like the look of newer cars with the green paint, so I went with it...lightly weathered. Engine mounted:

It's very common - older kits especially. I always separate tires from all the plastic.

Love both. My Gramps had 240, 260 and a 280. Remember riding in back. I was small, cuz that ain't no passenger compartment.

Very nice!

My process is simple. Primer and sand as usual. Apply gloss enamel. I usually don't have to polish because enamel goes on pretty smooth - small dust particles (why I don't use enamel for anything else) or any other inconsistencies should be dealt with. Spray Alclad at 12 psi - light coats until you get the look you want. I haven't noticed a difference spraying at an angle or straight - and, truth is, most parts like bumpers, etc. the paint hits at all angles anyway... After a few hours or a day, I use a very soft cloth and lightly buff to remove any excess or overspray. You can be finished and admire...or... Alclad is somewhat delicate - can be handled to a degree, but will wear thin if handled too much. I recently painted some engine parts and, once dry, dipped them in Future to protect the finish. Didn't seem to dull it at all. Your black base coat is really the most important part.

I would just buy another sheet... I don't think I've ever had any BMF go bad - is it a humidity thing orrrr what?

Awesome looking model. Fantastic paint.

In my first phase of building, which went from about 1978 to 1998, Scale Auto Enthusiast was the biggest game changer for me - what, there are people that take this hobby this serious? In my rebirth period, from about 2007 to now…the internet - without a doubt the single most revolutionary concept. Without the internet, you have no eBay, no forums, no online shopping, no connection to a world of modelers - not to mention Google searches.

Soooo.... We are getting 4 4L kits? Three from Ebbro and one from Heller? Who would have...

Go to an auto parts store and get duplicolor primer, paint, and clear. Way better paint than Testors.

Great looking model. Excellent decal work.