mrmike

The current owner has said repeatedly that the Mustang will stay in his family. He has absolutely no plans to sell the car to anyone. His father knew that the car was valuable and he could care less. The car has been in his family since 1974 and it will remain there as a part of his family. There are two articles, one in Road and Track and one in Car and Driver magazines about the Bullitt Mustang. I would suggest you read them and discover what the whole story behind the Bullitt Mustang is all about.

Ivy Green and Highland Green are two different shades of green. The color of the Bullitt Mustang is Highland Green. And, if it ain't shiny, it ain't mine!

Just so you know, there were two cars ordered from Ford just for this movie. Serial numbers 558 and 559. 559 is the hero car and 558 was the "jump" car as I call it. The 558 was found in Mexico and was totally trashed and is now in the process of being rebuilt. 559 is owned by Sean Kiernan who inherited the car from his father and is what I consider to be a barn find or not restored-98% original. It is possible that 558 had a straight rear valance panel and 559 had the cut outs, but we shall never know. Build your model your way and be proud of it. IMHO, either way is correct!

The Bullitt Mustang was repainted and returned to a "stock" appearance before it was sold to a Warner Bros. employee. It was sold to a Sheriff's Deputy who sold it several years later to the son's father who kept the car and tried to rebuild the car after he had taken it apart, just before his death from Parkinson's. The son plans to keep the car as it is. No restoration. The current value of the car is probably in the millions given its provenance. The round mirror was removed and the rectangular mirror was returned to the door. The rocker trim was returned to stock appearance. I believe the rear valance cutouts were always there, but the black exhaust tips don't highlight them like they were with chrome tips. And the exhaust tips were bevel cut and went straight back. No turn downs! I hope this helps you, Pat!

A link to the web site would have been nice! I got it for ya'll! http://www.showrods.com/

I'm sure Scalefinishes would or MCW or even Gravity Colors. But, I am trying to find what I need locally, be it in a hobby shop or auto parts store and I am trying to avoid going to the internet. If I go to any of the aftermarket suppliers, it'll be as a last resort.

I removed the left front wheel from the rest of the front suspension and took it apart. I cleaned up all the parts and made sure that all surfaces were flat and clean and reassembled them all. The end result is the left front wheel sitting as it should. More to come...

I have had this kit in the stash for some time now and with the recent articles about the Bullitt Mustang now in print and the hero car being found on the East Coast as well as the jump car being found in Mexico, I was influenced to build mine now. I am starting with the Revell Bullitt 1968 Mustang GT kit 85-4233. I also have the '68 Mustang GT kit 85-4215 that I will use the Cobra Jet headers from. I will be following the build by Marcos Cruz for mine. I will eliminate the metal axles from this kit, close the gap in the engine bay to the front fenders, and try to find a close paint color match. I started assembling the engine and the headers. I'll wire the engine and I'll rummage through my parts box for a separate carb and an open element air cleaner. And, I am done...not! This is a diecast Revell Bullitt Mustang that I built many years ago. This came from the same molds that Revell used for the plastic version that I am about to build. As the market changed, Revell converted many of their diecast molds to plastic and this is one of them. The only change I can find is to the dash. The current version has two gauges mounted under the dash and my diecast version does not have them. I'm surprised that no one has built a '68 Charger R/T from the Revell '68 Charger kit and yes, I have the diecast version of that car, too! More to come...

Well, the repair of squeezing the front tires towards each other didn't work. I used a pair of small needle nose pliers and gently bent the spindle arms towards the frame, effectively lengthening the tie rod. But, this lead me to discover another problem. The lower A-arm assembly was molded wrong and the left front wheel is canted. I have an idea on how to fix it, but requires taking the front suspension apart, which I don't want to do. I may just leave it. More to come...

I decided to pull out the '56 Fairlane today to work on it a little bit. I added the reflectors and the headlight shrouds and then I notice the paint didn't match. I sprayed some paint into a cup and with a brush, I painted the shrouds. I took the chassis out of the box and placed it on the desk and noticed that the wheels were facing in different directions. The tie rod seems to be pulling the front wheels in different directions and I really don't want to tear the suspension apart to make any corrections. I used one of my large clamps to squeeze the wheels together and I'll leave this overnight. If this doesn't work, I'll have to take the suspension apart and fix it. More to come...

Be sure to use a short self-taping screw so the turnstile in the center can still turn freely. You just want the top and the lower section to be joined together.

When I had the tops come off my paint stands, I grabbed my drill and drilled a couple of holes for two self tapping screws in the tops and the bases.

Thank you Cliff!

I fired up the paintbooth this morning and added another coat of Dupli-Color Forest Green Pearl to the roof. Because of the humidity, the paint blushed on part of the roof, but that polished out by rubbing a terrycloth towel on it. The join line on the roof is barely visible, but once I add several coats of gloss clear to the body, it'll probably come back. When you consider all the problems I have had with these Moebius kits, I don't think I'll be buying anymore. I do have other Moebius kits in the stash, but I'll build them when I want to and it'll be a while before I do. Moebius has a long way to go before they can be considered a good kit manufacturer by me. Right now, they are way down on the list! I removed the tape and mockup the body with the interior, chassis, and bed. Looks good so far, but it has been a lot of extra work! More to come...

Thank you, Joe!

Thanks Keith! I am hoping for the same result with mine after all the sanding and polishing I've done. It looks like where the plastic had joined itself after filling the mold and maybe not enough plastic was pushed into the mold. I don't know if that was the issue and I am not an expert on mold filling.

Thank you Curtis, Jeff, and Tyler!

Well, enough of the wetsanding and polishing. I used my hand to block the reflection of the background so I could show you the line on the roof. I think this is where the plastic joined after filling the mold. Now it's back into the paintbooth for another coat of paint that I hope will cover the line and the high spots where the paint was sanded and polished. I unmasked the bed and other than the white line along the top of the tailgate emblem, it came out good! Hopefully, a fine paintbrush and some Tamiya Light Gun Metal will take care of that white line. Other than seat belts, the interior is done. More to come...

I painted the second color on the F-100 yesterday and then threw the cab and bed into the dehydrator for five hours.. I may have painted the roof a little too heavily to start with as there is a line down the center of the roof. The plastic may have crazed a bit, so wet sanding is in order here. More to come...

This was an hour of masking the cab and the bed. I hope it was worth it! This was three mist coats and 1 wet coat of Tamiya TS-42 Light Gun Metal all in about 25 minutes. Into the dehydrator and when this is dry, I'll re-mask and shoot the Dupli-Color Forest Green Pearl. More to come...

I finally got the Fairlane painted in two-tone Go-Mango and white. I need to do some cleanup here and there, but it's not bad. I haven't decided if the engine bay will be Go-Mango or white, so this is how it is sitting right now. Lots left to do on this one. And, I still have to foil it and clearcoat it, too! More to come...

Thank you Tom! I have the seat belt buckles from Model Car Garage and I am using some black ribbon that I found here at the house.

Thank you Mark! I'm in the midst of making seat belts and it is not an easy task. I may have to come up with some sort of jig to help me make them.

A little more work done on the Sport Custom today. The dash and the steering wheel was painted, detailed, and decaled. The side panels were painted in Forest Green Pearl and Gunship Grey. I started assembly of the interior, but stopped so I can add the seat belts without any obstructions. More to come...

Your links do not work.