mrmike

You are now 2-for-2, Randy! Love the paint! Just one thing though, the shift handle has too much paint on it. I know that the instructions shows you how much to paint the grip, but the instructions are wrong. Anyways, good job!

Great job done on your Top Banana, Randy! Love it.

A little bit of progress to report. The cab top leaves a bit of a gap above the rear window, so out came the Bondo to fill in the gap. I inserted two lengths of 1/16 styrene rod into the back of the front wheels with some glue. More to come...

I guess as modelers, we can correct the inaccuracies we find in new tooled kits. It has been mentioned to me several times that this Foose kit is an updated original '56 Ford F100 kit-and it is NOT! The Foose Ford FD100 Pickup kit is a new tool kit. I think the metal axles are for playing with the newly assembled kit.

Thanks Joe! I'm glad that I am not alone with my feelings towards this kit. Now, just to be clear, I am liking this kit and so far everything is fitting where it should. There are some things that bother me enough that I need to correct them. With that said, I am moving forward with this build and I do have high hopes for a great looking model!

Finally! Someone who agrees with me on the metal axles! Thank you Espo!!! I can understand the concern for strength of the front control arms. The upper and lower control arms, when joined and glued properly, should be rather strong. Unless you intend to play with the truck afterward, then the control arms will snap! I got the Roush 427 engine assembled and ready for primer and paint. This engine will be painted black. I plugged the hole in the oil pan with a piece of styrene I had lying on the bench. It was also pointed out that there is quite the gap between the cab and the bed wall. I used my Dremel and a grinding bit removed some plastic fromthe leading edge of the running boards by the lower front fenders. This helped close the gap. More to come...

My newest project-the Foose FD100 Pickup aka The Overlord! I was very happy when this kit was announced and when I acquired it from my local Hobby Lobby with my 40% off coupon, I was ecstatic! That all turned to disappointment when I opened the kit and saw a baggie inside with two metal axles. The instructions verified what I had feared-a metal axle going through the oil pan! To me, this was inaccurate. I am going to correct these inaccuracies with this build. The metal axle in front will be replaced with a set of coil springs on the A frames and the notches in the frame have been filled. The supports on the rear of the frame have been removed. The body will be painted with Testors One Coat Lacquer Deja Blue with a grey interior. I chose the blue since I am not fond of painting black and the '56 Ford F5.0 built by Kindig-it Design was a dark blue metallic that really appeals to me.

Thanks Dirk and Steve! No, it didn't. The T handle definitely came from my parts box, but may have originally come from the AMT '69 Cougar Eliminator.

Thanks David! I try not to get too much overspray on the chassis. This isn't too bad, but I have done worse!

I got the chassis together, but I may put in a tach for a little more visual interest. Wiring the engine is in progress and I need to find some more wire insulation to make plug boots with. I'm also in the process of plumbing the chassis. More to come...

My holy grail kit is the MPC Mannix Roadster kit.

Thanks David! I have moved on from the valve cover issue. They are not coming off.

Congratulations on achieving your lofty goal! I may reach that someday (yeah, right!).

The seats are painted with Tamiya TS-29 Semi Gloss Black. The interior floor has been flocked with embossing powder and the Air Grabber has been painted with ColorPlace Flat Black Paint. More to come...

I got the Road Runner body painted this morning. While the paintbooth was up and running, I got the interior side panels, dash, and steering wheel painted as well. I'll paint the seats shortly when the headrests are securely glued on. More to come...

Dave, I have decided to let the valve covers stay where they are. I can't bring myself to try and remove them cause I'll destroy the engine. I'm not mad, but it erks me that i wasn't more careful. I have now seen pictures of a '69 383 (440) with the valve covers on either side, so I guess I'm safe in that regard. I just need to get moving and git-r-dun!

Well, at this point I think I'll just leave it alone. I can't justify stripping the engine and attempting to take it apart, because I'll end up destroying the engine.

Here are four pictures of my Revell '62 Impala 409.

John, that picture is different from all the others I have seen and it shows the breather on the left (driver's) side of the engine. Maybe they are different with the air grabber. John, we here are doing ok. I hope you are doing well.

Arrgh!!! I hate it when I mess up like this and I can't correct it! After staring at the engine, something didn't seem right and now I know what it is. I put the valve covers on the wrong sides of the engine and they are GLUED ON!!! I should have known better, but no!!! Well, I guess I'll have to live with it! Arrgh!!!

I saw this one Autoweek's newsfeed and I said WOW! But, then I am a bit biased since I do own a Mazda CX-5!

I sat down at the bench this morning with an idea that I had used on my '68 Hemi Road Runner from several years ago. I had an issue with the thin scribe line on the hood and the hot MCW lacquer paint I had used burnt through the hood and showed a nasty burn mark on the top of the hood. I am not using MCW paint on this hood, but I am using Tamiya TS-20 Metallic Green paint which is not as hot a paint. But, the scribe mark is still there and I would like to eliminate that line as much as possible. Using some sheet styrene, I cut a small and thin piece and filled the line with glue and layed the styrene into the groove. When the glue has dried, I will trim the styrene level with the hood and the groove will be filled. Since I am using the air grabber duct, I needed to find a air cleaner to match. I can't remember where this air cleaner came from and it really doesn't fit the duct, but it is better than nothing. More to come...

Thank you Ken!

I got my '69 Road Runner grille in the mail today and it's a really nice and clean casting, too! I had to modify the grille area on the body for the grille to fit. More to come...

There have been some changes in the past month. A Classic Plastic Model Club member gave me a sprue of parts from the Revell '41 Willy's after we had been discussing the Studebaker. I got a sprue with the chassis, front and rear suspensions, and steering components. Then as I was sizing the chassis, I noticed the two floor humps that would interfere with the chassis. My Dremel was more than happy to remove them.I'm going to have to extend the chassis to fit the the wheelbase and the body. I decided where to cut the chassis so it can be extended and I will have to build a floor and trunk. More to come...