MrObsessive

Oh, I'll have to cobble together something out of scratch.....especially the dash. The dashboard to my eyes are simple flat panels that I can shape and add gauges. The seats I can get together with whatever's in my parts box and go from there. The "loose cushion" look can be had with some putty and half round tubing of different sizes.

Rob, here's some pics of the Olds...............

All I can say is the man must be doing something right. As of right now with the screenshot I took of his page, he has 360 comments and climbing. Each of those comments has several requests for models. To each his own about the thickness of the body, and he no doubt has reasons why he makes them thicker as he's the one that's printing and casting them.

I believe with Agora there are some you can buy right at the outset without a subscription. The Cobra for example you can get at full price. I think the model has to be out a while as far as getting past a certain month of issues before they'll have enough parts to let it go at full price. Yeah, the number of complaints I've seen was interesting about Eaglemoss. In fact, they still have an "excuse page" as to why things are still held up. Unbelievable. ??‍♂️

After getting two of their models so far (Shelby Cobra and an ongoing Jag E-Type), I rate them as exceptionally GOOD. Even with the slowdown in shipping recently, I've still been getting the subs pretty much on time. One company I will never buy from again is Eaglemoss. It was over a YEAR to get any more parts to finish the '55 Mercedes Gullwing. I finally got disgusted and bought the entire kit from a seller in France. I can bet that there were many that never got their models finished as I do believe Eaglemoss stopped production somewhere along the way but wouldn't come out and say it. Then they had the "COVID" excuse as well as moving into a new warehouse. I've seen more than a few complaints from builders that never got their model parts to finish, and to add insult to injury, the CS there is absolutely useless in giving an explanation as to WHY they're waaaaay behind.

Mike, I want to add that is a VERY good looking Futura! One of the nicest I've seen of that car and one that's much wanted among us out here in the "lunatic fringe". I thought about getting that one myself, but my heart was won over by a '77 Chrysler Newport four door hardtop, and a 1960 Plymouth XNR concept car that Robert has on his latest list. The Plymouth I actually thought about scratchbuilding recently, so this saves me a LOT of work! ?

As someone who has a number of Robert Burns' excellent bodies, I can vouch for the very good quality of what he has. Yes, the bodies are a bit thick considering, but I can believe that's done for a more practical reason such as making sure that the body file survives printing (very thin, unedited A pillars can be a problem), and to make sure the body gets through to shipping with no issues. As far as the glass bucks, they're made so that it can be mounted from the outside......pretty much like a 1:1. Yes, you're going to have to take some time and smooth and polish out the bucks for vacuforming, or if the glass is not too complex, they can make good templates for clear stencil sheet. I have glued this in just the four corners with no fogging CA, then with a very fine bead of epoxy to keep the sides in. Here is a pic I got of his Cutlass recently as I was test fitting the front and rear glass templates............ Yes, they will need some finessing to make them fit a bit more flush. I'd also need to make some sort of flange for the quarter windows so the glass would fit there nearly flush. I should mention that Robert has reached out to me to ask if I'd like to do test prints of his upcoming bodies, as he knows that I have a 3D printer. I told him I would and give a bit of a critique if there are changes that might be needed for said model. Interesting enough, I was on a site (Hum3D) the other day where Robert is getting some of his files. The 3D renderings there don't offer interiors either unless you pay a HUGE premium ($900), so I can see why he does ask for help when it comes to someone that can make and cast interiors and whatnot. I did get a file a while back that did come with complete interior, but I gotta tell ya, it was done in an .obj file, and it's a job to convert what's needed to an .stl file, edit the parts to withstand printing, and then smooth them out to make them presentable to be built. Not for the faint of heart in the least. ?

Redline tires yes, but probably another color besides silver. This may be a "what if" more of a car as the original had the entire roof and rear section tilt upwards. I don't care for that as that would be woefully impractical for every day use if that was ever mass produced. More on the order of filling the shut lines in solid, and go with a "trunkless coupe" like the 'Vettes of the day.

I should add that another thing I notice when files are created from other original sources, they tend to REALLY beef up the A and C pillars on the cars. I get why they do that to make them more stable for printing, but WOW......that really takes away a lot of the detail that otherwise can be seen. Using the Maserati again as an example, I was able to take the windshield trim off the car and did that ever make a BIG difference in the profile of the roofline. MUCH better looking and not as heavy handed compared to what was done previously. I'm eventually going to print that one again, but this time with changes that will make it much more appealing, and not so heavy handed looking.

One thing Cults does when they get the files from other sources.....the creators who sell on Cults combine everything into one big fat file, which is why they're selling them with all the bumpers, taillights, up-tops, etc all attached. I've gotten a file that I believe was originally on Cults (Maserati Ghibli) and I found out that I'm able to use Blender and "un-attach" all the parts that were originally given as all one combined mesh. It's more work, but it's just as much work to try and paint or more tedious........separate those bumpers and lights for plating and such. That '58 Ford looks REALLY good! Hum3D's files can be expensive, but you can literally print an entire car with all its innards save for the engine and detailed chassis. I do believe from here on out, I'm probably going to just spend the money and buy the more expensive files, and I can either print them with opening doors, trunk and hood, or modify it as such so that all the opening panels are closed like on your Ford, and still have separate bumpers, taillights and headlights.

I was surfing the 'net, and on Cults3D I came across a file for a 1964 Pontiac Banshee Coupe show car which has never been done as a kit. It looked interesting, but I could tell by the file that it was originally created to be used for an FDM printer as opposed to the SLA one that I have. It was also to be printed as a slot car.......not something I wanted as that would be a very thick body, and I wanted something I could eventually detail out with full interior, chassis and engine detail. I ran the file through Blender and originally I edited the file which got rid of all the underside mesh which made the insides so thick. While I was at it, I opened up the windows on the body and tried to thicken up the walls as they would be way too thin left alone. Well, the first time it printed, it was coming out rough with about 20% into the run, so I figured there was some sort of issue with the windows being opened up, as the software couldn't "see" where to put the supports and would not print that section. I stopped the printing at that point and went back to the drawing board. I redid the file with the windows remaining closed, put the body on a 45 degree angle, and the print took about 16 hours to finish. Here are some pics of how it turned out, including how the file looked when I originally had it in Blender. The original file as it came from Cults3D............ After the mesh was gotten rid of in the undersides of the body..... Then I had to go back and redo the file with the windows remaining closed........... The body in the slicer with the dimensions scaled out............... And now the results............ I'm going to beef up the A pillars with some square rod superglued in to reinforce them before I try to open up the windshield, as they are they are very thin and subject to break while I open things up. If I print this body again, I'll add more mesh to the A pillars to add more thickness so this won't be an issue. I'd also need to raise the body a bit higher in the slicer as I lost part of the back end panel as it was too low. That would have put the body out of bounds and not printed well, so a larger printer is in the works hopefully before long. As far as building this, I'd like to use a modified C2 Corvette chassis as that might have been what GM planned had they decided to put this into production, but with a solid axle. Somewhere in my stash I have an OHC Pontiac straight six I could repop to use as that's what the 1:1 had. I may get brave and do another body, hack the roof off and do the convertible version of this car. That's the original file I was looking for, but only saw this one.

After paying upwards of SEVEN HUNDRED DOLLARS for 138 gallons of heating oil in March, you betcha that's what's going on. That was the reason I held off on buying a second larger 3D printer around that time. That set me back on my heels, and I can tell you without letting this get to where the thread will get zapped, it has everything to do with a collapsing dollar. Folks can look up the reasons why if they're interested.......I won't name them here.

The brown resin looks like it might have been printed at .030mm, while the white might have been a tick higher (very slightly deeper print lines). IMO ALL resin needs work before doing anything with 'em and I go over mine with a fine tooth comb just like the plastic. Robert has a YT channel showing the differences....... ?

I know a number of you guys on here don't like Facebook.......BUT it's the only way to get in touch with Robert Burns and get one of his EXCELLENT cars he has available. He's taking reservations now through May 1st. He has a loooooooong list of cars he's doing. Most have no interiors-----that bugs some folks I know, but we ARE model builders and you can be creative to come up with what works. ? If you click the link here, it should take you to his page where he lists everything, and in his description he tells you how to order. I've already reserved his VERY nice 1977 Chrysler New Yorker 4 dr hardtop. Also, I want the newly listed 1960 Plymouth XNR concept car. Funny, I was just looking for an STL file of that just the other day! ?

I don't know about his store on Shapeways......he was offering them on FB to anyone that contacted him. I believe the only thing he asks is for them not to be sold as their own work, or something to that effect.

LOL!! ? That's the main reason in the house I'm in now, I kept all the unbuilt models in the moving boxes. The room they're in has no door to it, so if I left them out, I'd have model boxes and parts scattered EVERYWHERE! It's a bit of pain because if I need to find something, I can be looking for awhile through boxes. I need to spend some time and see about getting some type of "accordion" or French door with a latch hook for the room. A standard door won't do as it's a really WIDE doorway as it was once an entire room split into two. Your cat is a real cutie......he looks like he's about to get into trouble! ?

The 1/8 scales I built during much of last year is the reason I'm going to have to build more shelf space in the not too distant future. Yes, they can suck up a LOT of space, and let's not forget the additional room needed for a display case. Dust (along with rambunctious cats) is the number one killer of a nice model. It gets into the darndest places where it's impossible to get rid of, so I have to factor that in also when it comes to buying, building and eventually displaying 'em.

No, not exactly. I think his car was a '63 in white. Mine may be a '63 (front gullwing bumpers), but I'd like to do another color besides white.

@keyserSomewhere buried in my vast stash, I have an unbuilt 1/43 scale Pegaso Spider kit. I think it's a '53? I can't even remember who made it, but I've had it probably close to 20 years now. Pull the engine to adjust the valves?? Yikes! I'll keep an eye on Ultimate Car Page......also Fantasy Junction is a good site for oddball rare cars like that too. ?

Thanks Bill! I watched the whole video and I was able to get screenshots of the Pegaso's transmission. That'll come in handy for future reference. I was searching for resto vids on the Pegaso a couple weeks ago, and all I saw was very quick vids of the engine running on a dyno stand, and a guy painting one. I'm sure sooner or later one on a lift will turn up on the 'net somewhere.

Thanks! The green car you showed......I saw that site the other day, and I got most of the pics they had posted. No undercarriage shots though, but from what I can see, that shouldn't be too hard to configure.

This is the best I can do for the moment......I had these at the ready on my hard disc. It was basically the flat four VW engine, but the Type 3's needed a lower height to suit the Squareback wagons and Fastbacks, as well as the Type 34 Ghias. Yeah, splitting the bodies can be troublesome. You oughta see the REALLY big scales I've seen guys tackle online as far as splitting those! It's not for everyone as the splitting program can be tricky.

@Ace-Garageguy I already got this car scaled out when the times comes for me to want to print it. I like to keep specs on hand as I'll need the percentage I'm using to do the other parts too later on.

Thanks Bill! Those pics help a lot! If I can get pics of what the floor looked like underneath, that would be great! Wow............that sure is a lot of swiss cheesed steel huh?? ?

It would be for Tamiya's 1/24 '66 Karmann Ghia engine. That would be the kit (running gear and chassis) I'd be using to build a 3D printed Karmann Ghia Type 34 I did a few weeks ago. It'll be a bit before I'd get to it........I've got the Shelby to finish up yet, and then there's a resin '77 Cutlass Supreme on deck after that. Here's a few pics of the Type 34.............. I've since smoothed out the body where the halves meet, and put it away until it's time to get to it.