Exotics_Builder

From my IHOBBY notes, if I jotted it down right, Foose apparently got interested based on the Gearz contest and what is being done with Gearz Rat Roaster. They were just getting into discussions with him at time (again, if my notes are correct). I was so intent to be sure all the new stuff got listed and photoged, plus get the questions posed here answered, that this other stuff was secondary.

Sorry for the delay as this was Friday evening. Had too many things to do this weekend. Not as big as the Show on the north end of the village, but close to home and some interesting cars. And, if you want, you can go to Durty Nellies’s for one of their super Angus Burgers. And this way to the photo album: http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s110/exotics_builder/2012-05-18%20Palatine%20Car%20Cruise%20In/

They had the box art at IHOBBY. My best guess based on the conversation with them is late 4th quarter 2012 or 1st quarter 2013. We may know more when the mid-year announcements come out in the few weeks.

Yep a typo. I meant I6. not V6. I also forgot to add the ZL1 Camaro. I do think an F12 will come, but not sure on the FF. Maisto is doing an FF diecast, but in a radio control version. Not sure what that will be like. That is all I've heard for sure. I don't know if many of you saw Fujimi is doing a McLaren MP4 race version: Likely a curbside like their others.

Oh, I forgot to add some of what I would love to see from the manufacturers (WARNING, it is eclectic): 1953 Buick Skylark or Riviera 1957 Oldsmobile Hardtop Retooled 1957 T-bird with detail to the level of the AMT 1956 T-bird New tool Jaguar XK-E roadster and coupe, the V-6 not V-12 Retooled 289 Cobra Ferrari 250 GT Lusso New tool and accurate 1968 Z28 Camaro 71 Boat tail Riviera 2012 BMW 6-series 2012 BMW M5 2012 Audi S6 2012 Maserati Quartroporte 2012 Maserati GT Ferrari FF (preferably full detail) Ferrari F12 Berlinetta (preferably full detail) Any current Chevy or Ford super duty pickup with diesel engine (for hauler and other purposes) Airstream motorhome Newell or Monarch motorhome

I am saddened by the negativity that sometimes creeps into these conversations because some of us feel their needs are not respected. I have had years where I feel the models coming out are nowhere near my interests. As regards to getting feedback from existing and potential customers, the model companies go through a lot of avenues. That is what both Revell and Round2 professed at IHOBBY when I made the rounds. They both indicated they get a huge amount of requests from a rash of sources for a variety of different topics. Some avenues are “trolling” the message boards, go to major contests and conduct surveys. For obvious reasons, they did not go into how many new tools they really can do in a year, but it not many. I didn’t publish this when I did the report out because I was concentrating on getting as much info on what was coming out. Fortunately I had not thrown out my notes and went back through them. Here are some highlights: New Issues: To break even on a new issue, they need to sell 50,000 kits. In the 60’s and 70’s, they would sell way more than that, up to ten times. Licensing is a big hindrance. Often time manufacturers will want a cut. On race cars, the sponsors on the decals all want a cut. This has been a big limiter on doing a lot of topics. A really successful new tool can be done in multiple variants with some tweaking. This gets more mileage off the base molds. If an older model, say a 1968 Bopmobile, is being done, there are not necessarily any manufacturer plans (paper or CAD) to rely on, so they need to reverse engineer. This involves taking a “boatload” of photos of a prototype. And, hopefully, that prototype is really accurate (not modified or repaired in any way). The price point target nowadays is mid-$20 retail for a kit. People such as Art Anderson and others have waxed eloquently enough on why this is so. They only have enough R&D money for a few new issues in any year. So, they have to be very careful on what they decide to produce. And they go through a VERY rigorous vetting process to get the approval from corporate parents What sells: In general, at this time, there is still a bigger demand for older cars than newer ones. On new cars, the overwhelming desire (across the potential market) is for Camaros, Mustangs, Vettes and a couple of others. Hence, if you look at recent post 1995 car models, you will see predominantly that type of offering. Snap (or simple glue) kits sell better than full detail glue kits. Revell indicated their biggest sellers up to IHOBBY were the Snap Camaro Concept and C-6 Corvettes. If you look at what new issues came from Round2, they are simple 2010-11 Camaros and Corvettes. I asked Revell on the new-tool snap Enzo and was told there is a demand and the market need is not interested in their glue version (actually RoG) or the more complicated Tamiya kit. I interpreted that as younger builders. Die casts restrict the market. Sometimes, die cast manufacturers will market a particular car that makes it extremely difficult to meet the profit guidelines. Reissues are done because there is enough renewed or constant demand to keep in the catalog and repop. Sometimes they will tool in some new goody on a tree (example the upcoming Revell Chevy pickup with snow plow). I don’t profess to know all the workings of the industry and I left a lot of other stuff out as this is getting too winded as it is. There are some things the manufacturers would not relate to me as I don’t work for them and they don’t want published. Their livelihood depends on offering the best mix of models they can with the resources they have. One fact that I can leave is that at IHOBBY, the Revell Make and Take segment (automotive) which my club supported had a Revell marketing rep there doing a survey of all participants. There was a huge mob in the two days of the public part of the show. Even though this was automotive oriented, the “winner” in the survey of model types was Military. I’m not sure what to make of it as the kids were carrying off their completed cars as they were stopped for the survey. I know I have been frustrated in some years with, from my interests, lean pickings on models that interest me. That said, new kits are still coming and there are many of us who want those offerings. I feel glad for them and hope that someday my wish list may get a hit or two. Perhaps I can feel more cavalier about this since I have a large stash in the basement that I can catch up on until a model I want shows up. I would like to think more that it is a hobby and a fun thing and to quote a modeler whose work I greatly admire, “there is a lesson in every kit”

Recap: Let’s recap where we are at. C.A.R.S. in Miniature 2012 theme is Pro “Anything”. I decided to do a Pro-Touring version of the 1966 El Camino to finish off a started but severely damaged (in a move) model. So, I acquired the reissue California Wheels kit and reached into the parts bins. Unlike some modelers, I don’t assign a name to a project unless it is intrinsic to the outcome, like a race car or diorama. But, I do work up a theme on the project, getting more detailed if the topic warrants it. For a replica stock, out of box or curbside build, the theme is somewhat moderate. For a project such as this, a beefier theme is warranted. The general theme is old style/new style. For old style, I am: Keeping the stock chassis but augmenting it. Staying with a solid rear axle, but going to 5-point versus 4-point link to support the beefier engine. Keeping a Muncie 4-speed. Going with a firewall plenum cold air intake. I had one of these on my real 68 Camaro Z/28 and it was great except for the occasional smell of raw fuel coming in through the interior air vent on the passenger side. No air conditioning. Staying carbureted instead of doing EFI. For new style: Updated interior with more comfortable bucket seats, instruments and sound system. ZZ502 modern crate engine with headers. This is pretty easy as the modifications to the kit supplied big block are pretty straight forward. Updated plumbing, with catalytic converters and, likely, an H-tube (or X-tube) exhaust. Modern tires, wheels and brakes. Smoothed and shaved body. Chassis and components: The El Camino chassis is not fully boxed, allowing fuel and brake line to be routed in the channel. The channel is not in the Revell chassis plus body pan, so to simulate, I will drill a few holes to “hide” the lines where appropriate. The fuel line will come over the top of the rear chassis brace where the suspension is located and then down to the passenger side. The brake line will run on the axle to the pumpkin and then up and over to the driver side. Finally, the parking brake is a cable assembly that will hang down the chassis and needs to be worked around the exhaust system and avoid driveline components. I am working on these components now, but this is what I will be emulating: For the fuel delivery system, I dug into my parts stash and pulled out Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland resin Holley electric fuel pump. As usual for Norm’s work, this is a quality casting and replicates a Holley component you can buy today. Engine: Since I am doing a 502 motor, and keeping the 4-speed, the basic engine is fine. To replicate a 502 simply requires different paint schemes and some aftermarket parts. Basically I am aiming to do a GM Performance Parts ZZ502 – Big Block Chevy. So, for what I intend, in the real world you would start with Part #12496963, the long block. This would require an electric fuel pump (already in the plans) and comes with an automatic transmission flexplate which would have to be replaced. With a little putty on the Revell big block, we just need to go with a performance intake manifold, Holley 4BBL, chrome valve covers and headers. The intake manifold and Holley carburetor are again from Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland. I mounted the intake manifold with a little fitting and will leave the carburetor for later. The 502 does not use coil packs, and for a distributor I have several choices. I decided to use one of my few remaining SJS Details wired distributors. Before running the wiring, I usually do a mockup of the exhaust system to figure out how to run the wiring. The fit in the engine bay area is tight even for the stock exhaust manifolds. I did not have a lot of options in the parts bins were promising, even the Revell Yenko Camaro headers are a very tight fit. Looking through the kit stash, I decided to use the BBC headers from the AMT 72 Nova with some cleanup. It is not the most ideal, but fabricating a set with solder and coming up with a good result would take a lot of time, and I have two more projects that need to be done for set dates. The mockup process with the headers and how to run the plug wires yielded an option to run the wires below the header and to the back of the block. I also need to add the dipstick and tube. Photos of this in next update. Body: The color coat is now done. As I was getting ready to do finish work, I found a problem relating to the engine compartment. Revell casts into the engine compartment a detailed battery. The engraving includes the terminals, locking bar, and caps. The caps are the problem. The battery is typical of the period, not maintenance free. As I am doing a Pro-Touring modern update, a maintenance free battery is a necessity. As I looked at carving off the caps and modernizing, I realized I would likely destroy the fine engraving. So, I cut out the battery, patched the stand and will use an aftermarket product with Detail Master Battery detail kit as a replacement. In the next update, the clear coat and body decals will be shown. More to come!

Could be. I understand that Mattel is the control of Ferrari licensed toys/models world wide. Is that true?

I was told that the deal with Italeri fell through. I actually brought my Italeri 250 GT to Revell to see if it could be US boxed. It couldn't because of the parts trees makeup. Then a few weeks later I heard that Revell AG and Italeri did not "close" the deal. That is all I heard.

A must do. I have had a couple of older decals stick to the album page. But I used wax paper as an alternative

Okay. Here are the Powerpoint slides I used for an engine wiring seminar I did for the C.A.R.S. in Miniature club on March 10:

I have something at home I can post. But it will be later today.

I use a simple, relatively "clean" technique that takes a while, but is effective. I first strip the chrome plating by soaking in white vinegar. Then the undercoat is striped by using Easy Lift Off (Testor). It is isn't the fastest, but not near as caustic as some options.

I use rattle can or airbrush depending on the color and effect. For chassis work, usually a rattle can color is effective. If possible, I will use a lacquer, but will go enamel if needed.

Progress has been slow the past week and a half. Body Preparation I have gotten to final primer on the body. I am using the Tamiya fine light gray primer and will likely not cover with white primer. I want a darker version of the colors, and I believe the light gray will provide the effect. Again, I will be using shaker can paint only on this build. I’ll have to see how the Testors’ One Coat White Lightning will look over the gray primer and go from there. The top color will be Testors’ Flaming Orange. I also decided to part out a 2006 Revell Snap Concept Camaro kit for the wheels, tires, bucket seats and side view mirrors. I think the Concept car side view mirrors will work on this model and help keep the exterior smoother. Here’s a shot of the body with the mirrors (unprimered): I also will be applying flat black primer on the bottom of the body for future mating with the chassis. Chassis and suspension I started the subassemblies for the chassis and suspension. It would be nice to do an Art Morrison chassis, but that will be for another build. The Revell chassis would need considerable modification as the frame and body pan are one molding. So for this build, beefing up the kit chassis will be the plan. The Revell kit does provide the aftermarket wheels and disk brakes. They are a good choice, but I decided to use the Revell Concept Camaro wheels and tires and thought the brakes needed a little beefing up as well. So, I went to the parts box and pulled out some Fujimi large Brembo disks. As these will be reasonably exposed, I sacrificed the calipers from a second set, sanded them down and glued them to the calipers of the first set. This will give a better effect. The front suspension will retain the A-arm configuration and I also decided to keep the recirculating ball steering provided in the kit rather than try to find and adapt a rack and pinion set up. Only the Brembo brake set will be added. To adapt the brakes to the suspension, I needed to remove the wheel stubs that the kit wheels “snap” over. After an incident several years back at a show, I now always glue my wheels so they don’t roll. I drilled out the rotor to center on the stub. To accept the Camaro wheels, I trimmed the wheel post to near the hub and added Evergreen plastic tube cut down to act as a shim that centered the wheel. Then, I perhaps got a bit anal and decided to drill out the rotor cooling holes. A wash could have been used to accentuate the cooling holes from the front, but the rear would still be a flat disk. So, I went ahead and drilled them out. There are 58 cooling holes per brake rotor. For the rear suspension, I started the build of the solid rear axle. EL Caminos, as other Chevelles of that era, have a 4-link trailing arm solid rear axle sprung with coils. I wanted to notch this up a bit, so I took the panhard rod from a parts kit Revell 65 Impala to make a 5-link. I glued a piece of Evergreen plastic stock to the axle to attach the rod. In assembling the axle, I found an error in the kit instructions. Although the parts are included, the upper trailing arms assembly is missing from the instructions. I found I still had original El Camino instructions in my instruction folder and dug it out. It is not in that either, but is in the 66 Chevelle Wagon kit. The parts are numbers 98 and 52 and here is how they appear assembled. Parts on tree: This is not very visible on the assembled model and can be finicky to glue up. So, if you also are building this model, you can decide if it matters. Anyway, the rear suspension subassembly is about done and a little work with the brakes on the front remains. Interior Started I started to look at what I’m going to do on the interior while waiting for glue to dry and get my fingers “unlocked” from the brake rotor drilling exercise (front brakes yet to do). I will use the Revell Concept Camaro buckets and decided to also change the instrument panel. In looking at the kit instructions (yes I DO read them, multiple times for an unfamiliar vehicle), I found another error. On page 3, instruction panel 2, the dashboard top depiction shows the defroster vents towards the driver and the radio grill towards the window. This is the reverse of how it should be. The part can be glued on correct way only without looking odd, but it can be confusing. As a reference point, the original instructions are correct as is the Chevelle wagon. Instructions in current kit: Instructions in old kit: More to come.

Well...

It definitely is in the Revell 48 Ford Custom. It also is in the 40 Ford standard coupe, the 1/25 scale 32 Ford variants with the flathead (including two different radiators, one for the Small Block Ford engine and the other the Flathead)

Remember, Revell here is Revell of Germany (RoG), thus the 1/24 scale. 1/25 is not a scale used outside the US that I have ever discovered. What you usually see in Europe or Japan that are 1/25 are US produced models. Revell US will repackage some of the RoG kits for US distribution. Except for reissues, Revell USA is pretty much on the 1/25 bandwagon (I can't recollect any NEW tool kit being 1/24 that wasn't done by RoG).

That is what Revell told me at IHOBBY. No idea on any price though. I have 5 of the kits in my stash right now, plus two McLaren's. I think that is more than enough.

Curtis pretty well nailed it. The 360 series from Revell AG was poor but from the 430 up the releases are getting better and better. The 430 kits are good alternatives to the Fujimi versions. The engine in the Revell 430's is slightly better but the Fujimi body is crisper. Wheels and tires are slightly better on the Fujimi, but both are small. The 612 is pretty good. The whell lip moldings are too thick but can be adjusted. The Revell 599 GTB has an engine whereas the Fujimi is curbside. The Fujimi body is a bit crisper than the Revell. I have seen conversions where a Fujimi body was fitted over the Revell chassis The Revell California is a very decent kit. There is no Fujimi equivalent. In the open top version, there is a gap that needs to be addressed between the interior and body. This is not a problem on the closed top version. The Revell 458 is far and above better than the Fujimi version. The Fujimi interior is quite plain and requires considerable work. My only peeve with the Revell 458 is the engine is too simplified. But since it is so buried in the engine bay, it is not a concern for most modelers. I just like to detail out engines when provided in a kit. In general, the biggest dislike I have of the Revell AG Ferraris is that the wheels and tires are too small and not prototypical enough. They also have the odd fabrication of wheel front, brake disk and then wheel rear so that the wheels can roll. I generally use aftermarket wheels that are more accurate on either the Fujimi or Revell wheels. But, you can get by with the kit supplied versions as well. Revell AG has announced they will be doing modified reissues of the 599 in the form of the 599 GTO and SA Aperta (599 spyder). They are the only ones to have annouced this. HTH. Gerry

I decided rattle can Testor's lacquers for this rather than airbrush colors. For sure I was going to go with White Lightning on the bottom over the gray primer to darken it a bit. For the top, I am still deciding on whether to use Purple Licious, Flaming Orange or Mythical Maroon. Any opinions are welcome. At the moment, Purple Licious is on the top of the list.

First pass primer on the body. Still needs some tweaking before color coat.

The C.A.R.S. in Miniature 2012 theme project is Pro “Something”. That is Pro-Street, Pro-Touring, Pro-Mod, etc. I decided to do a 1966 El Camino as a Pro-Touring version, with moderate upgrades. The Revell 1966 El Camino 2’n1 kit is a good basis for this. In general, I find the model a good representation of the 1:1 car with a great chassis, engine and drive-line. Although not Pro-Touring, I had one about 90% complete when we moved from Bellevue Washington to suburban Chicago area. However, it (and about 4 other models in work) got severely damaged in the move. I was able to salvage the wheels, engine and one of the bucket seats. The wheels and engine were repurposed to other models and that was that. When C.A.R.S. announced this year’s theme, I thought this would be a good time to get back on it as the kit is still available, this time with optional accessories. I also wanted to get an early start, unlike the 48 Ford Custom for the Lake Michigan Model Car Club 2011 theme. So I acquired another Revell El Camino and set off. Starting with the body, I shaved off all emblems and hood trim. I decided to do a custom door handle for a smoother look when finished. I had bought a few automotive bodies for paint testing, a couple of them Japanese cars. One of them had door handles that looked good and the body had an upper curvature close the El Camino body. So I sliced them out and merged them into the doors. I also decided to french the radio aerial to keep the smoother appearance. I may change my mind, but at this point I have decided to keep the bumpers chrome rather than strip them and paint a body color. I am considering a two tone paint job but am still working on the colors. The body and hood are in first pass priming at this point. Next update will be the chassis.

Yes. Needed a little adjustment.