Exotics_Builder

I separate my PE into categories and store them in these plastic storage boxes Decals are separated out and stored in different plastic storage boxes

Heard that a lot. What amazes me is the kit does not include a rear anti-sway bar, nor do almost all reference photos of stock chassis/suspension show any.

Wire from a spool I picked up at the hardware store. It is about 0.02 inches in diameter. I picked up a variety of different sizes for detailing.

I have gotten Zero Paints from USA sources. First is Upscale Hobbies and second is Hobbyworld USA. Both do periodic bulk orders to deal with the Hazmat shipping costs. I prefer Upscale because he will broadcast setting up an order and give one the chance to specify need. Both are low on supply at the moment.

And Gravity is the most opaque paint I have tried. Very helpful in answering questions. Again, the "real" one in Spain, not the USA one.

I went back and checked. Yes they do. Not sure any other kit has that one. I don't have a lot of Ford/Mercury so hard for me to check

Going back to the 72 instructions (and checking a 69) the kit included an AIR pump for smog control. The 72 instructions have the alternator and smog pump locations reversed. I'd have to go back and check the kit to see how "accurate" these parts are.

Made some progress on this build. Got the interior painted and dash/door cards detailed. Next is trim out the seats and add seat belts and floor mats. Chassis painted and detail started. As the frame is not actually correct for the GTO (which is not fully boxed), I ran the fuel, fuel return and brake lines as close as I could to give the effect. Next, add the differential and front suspension and finish the detail. I included a reference photo of a real chassis and frame. I’ve got the basecoat on the body and need to clean up a few spots before clear coating and final trim out. And the engine is started (not just the halves glued together). I still have a bottle of Testor’s Pontiac Engine Blue. I poured a bit into a mixing cup along with Mr. Color Lacquer Leveling Thinner and shot with my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. As an experiment, I recently acquired one of the battery compressors that attach to the brush. I figured it might be useful for small jobs. The engine was painted using that compressor. Next is detail out the engine.

Man. Agawam MA! You're even closer to where I was born (Palmer)

Interesting. I use Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner with Tamiya acrylics and lacquer, Testor's enamel and other paints. No problems yet.

Not comprehensive, but you have 3 basic choices in AC Compressors. Depends on what effect you are going for and how much you plan to modify the accessory drives of your source engines or if you are looking for an engine assembly to transplant. Rotary type (Modern GM primarily) Older GM Style (Revell 65 or 66 Chevrolet Impalas) Generic style (C4 ZR1 or Revell 32 Fords with Ford small block option)

I got my Bronco/Sandman today from a US etailer

Diecast, but a decent replica

Pontiac Iris Mist, same as Chevrolet Evening Orchid metallic. Testors had it in their lacquer auto color line (no longer available). Can get through MCW or Scale Finishes or touch up paint companies. I recollect was a one year only color

I pinged Lyle Willets. It as Carbon Copy Resins, long out of business

I do not remember where I go it but believe it is no longer available. I will check my past stuff and see if I still have the info. I built this from the resin body. It goes on the Revell 49 Mercury kit (chopped sedan, not woody)

Luckily I have this as well as one of the oddities

Not gonna happen ?. The inspiration

All the ones I posted are yet to be built and I still have a couple of the Olsonite Eagles as well. For some reason, other projects took precedence

My guess is the Indy Lotus versus the 1963 Lotus Ford (in my multiple kit)

As mentioned above by Can-Con. AMT did one, but it has never been reissued that I can recollect.

As most model paints are somewhat translucent, I use a primer that will be most "compatible" with the base coat. And, in some cases, can eliminate a base coat. I used the white primer because of the seat color. The primer will not affect the black carpeting. The Light Gray primer is my go to for most work as it is very neutral. I used the hot rod (dark gray) to fill the scribed lines followed up by the pink as a Maroon will be the body color. It is not necessary to go to this extreme, but I try to minimize the primer/color coats to not bury detail. The only model paint I have so far found to be Opaque is Gravity Colors (the original from Spain).

While working on the detailed 1969 Camaro Pace Car, there is also a “build-off” for Pontiacs on Facebook that I am participating in. Originally, I was going to do a stock 65 GTO using the AMT kit. But the work to do a more detailed chassis AND correct the interior discrepancies would be more than I have time to tackle. Since I had just completed the 1966 GeeTO exhibition drag car, I decided to do a stock 66. I’ve gotten the parts out, cleaned, and primed. General parts got a coat of Tamiya Light Gray Primer. Interior has gotten Tamiya White Primer (parchment seats to be done). And the chassis/suspension Gunze Black Surfacer 1500. I’ve already masked off and shot the frame Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black. The body was cleaned and door/trunk lines deeper scribed then primed in Duplicolor Hot Rod primer. A clean up of the body and then Tamiya Pink primer applied over it. A little more cleanup and a final primer coat before base coat.

My Bonneville and GP bodies are in good shape As for roof line trim on the Bonny, Here are views of both sides And this is the optional tire in the Prestige kits (both Bonny and GP)