Exotics_Builder

No full detail C7 from Revell. This easier build seems to be the way they're going on more modern car releases. Also the prepaint seems popular as well. Even Revell of Germany is thinking that on their newer cars such as McLaren 570S and AMG GT. I am not a fan of that simplified style, particularly the chassis. But, if it improves sales and gets more modelers into the game, I guess I can accept that. I did suggest Revell should up to C7 to a Z06. Didn't get a big OH YEAH! back form them though. The Z06, per their design rules would be a new tool, since 50% or more of the kit would need to be modified. However, the Revell guy also said that Z06's are a large percentage of C7 sales (didn't give me more specifics). So I reiterated that a Z06 would fill that niche for modelers

So did I.

Per Revell, chassis is like the C6R.

I'm with you on that one. After having been "burned" a couple of times by resin vendors, I would not EVER accept the long wait times mentioned, regardless of how good the product.

I was told that but haven't confirmed with Matt as to whether he so plans

On the C7R, photo courtesy of Chuck Hermann, GTR Auto Modelers:

HobbySearch and HLJ just listed the FXX-K and it looks like a June release is expected.

I got the MCG 69 Camaro PE set which does a good job to get corrections moving.

Yes it should.

What Bill showed is the manifold. Left manifold and right manifold injector, parts 34 and 35. You also have engine cover, part #27. So, what part number is the part you say is missing?

The previous reissue of the Surf Woody has textured wheels, though it does not appear as textured as in the photo above. I no longer have an original to compare to.

AND, you have to separate out the Overhaulin' builds from his actual custom work. The two new tools Revell is doing are supposed to be reviewed and approved by Foose and UNIQUE. Revell will still do Foose branded mods on other kits with what I consider more of the Overhaulin' orientation rather than a major modified custom.

I have most boxed up. Never unpacked when we moved out here. I mainly go to shows to support a club, either the host or my club's participation. The biggest kick I get is people looking over what I've done and commenting or me doing the same. You meet a lot of nice people at contests or NNL's. Getting a photo of your model in a magazine is really great. One of mine actually made it in Street Rodder back in the late 90's. That was very cool. Winning an award is nice, but getting ideas, learning tips and techniques and conversing with fellow modelers is the big reason for attendance.

My experience with Meguiars is that it does soften enamels and you need to rewash and let the paint "cure" again before doing anything. Again, it if smells like paint, it has not cured. Airbrushing speeds the curing process initially because of thinner coats. Same with polishing. I usually wait a couple of days before any masking. Also, as stated above, I would avoid saran wrap. I've used parafilm, freezer bag or light touch painter's tape to cover large areas. Butcher paper would be another alternative.

TS-13 is lacquer and X-7 Acrylic. NOT COMPATIBLE. The Acrylic Gloss Clear is X22, I believe. In my experience with their acrylics, many dry semi-gloss and would need a gloss coat (also to protect decals).

Same here. Assuming your X-7 was the rattle can lacquer?

As most Scale Finishes is enamel, the paint was likely not fully dried and reacted (as stated above). Also, if you use a Dehydrator to cure the paint without removing the masking, that could also create a problem. As stated by Peteski, the paint must be fully dried before any masking or there could be issues

Or the decal sheet from the 65 Satellite. I tried for several months to order a replacement. Then Dave tried to help, but the decal sheet he sent must have been a test shot as the rear script was way too narrow. I would up having to buy a damaged kit from them to get the decals I needed to finish up the model.

The only clear that seems to work with Alclad Chrome is their Acrylic Clear sprayed on lightly. It does not destroy the effect. I have tried it only once.

One was made by R&D Unique/Mini-Exotics over 15 years ago. When they closed shop it went the way of the dinosaur. I had one until about 5 years ago and sold it. Might check EBay and see if anyone is selling theirs.

Both. Spray cans for flat or semi gloss. Either for interiors. Either for gloss colors on the exterior. Air brush for Alclad, gloss clearcoats and some detail work. For some air brushing, like Metalizers, I will use an external feed, single action since no complexity involved and easy to clean. Otherwise I have 3 different Iwata and 2 Badger brushes, one each set up with side feed to use the Aztec bottles and cups. For my compressor, I use a Silent Air unit that is quite quiet and has plenty of oomph for the brushes.

I use a color laser for my decals. There is also an advantage where you can use color appliques that will adhere to the black toner after passing through the printer (or heat laminator). I've used some Detail Master and Micro Mark paper with no opinions yet on one being better than another. I also clear with Microscale Decal Film to be sure no bleed. All clear decals are somewhat translucent and you need to consider this in regards to the model color. Sometimes you will need to double up to keep the model color from coming through, which adds to thickness (Fred Cady's decals were thin enough that this was less of an issue). I have yet to experiment with creating a white base for the decals to eliminate the translucency. Probably won't don't that until after we move and I set back up,

Some months back, when Revell showed up at a club event, there was no indication that a Ranchero was even on the Radar (which we took to mean not in the next two to three years). The most likely would be a gasser based on the 57 wagon. But, they were gearing up for the Star Wars VII toys big demand. Who knows when, if ever, they will do it. Your best bet now is the Flintstone Ranchero body on the Wagon kit. Like any Flintstone resin, you need to do a good amount of clean up to make it fit.

I agree. The only advantage they have, besides the wheels being nice, is that they have adapters for different hub systems.