Exotics_Builder

Well the 350 in the Revell Nova is a LT1 hi-performance option. If the Acadian is a stock version, the Revell 63/64 Chevy Small Block should be a close fit , even the air cleaner. They have Powerglide transmissions. Don't know how you would handle the air cleaner decals.

As stated by Force. Watch out for the 265 CID in the Revell 55 Chevy as it has no oil filter mount. You may also have to finagle the motor mounts for your project. The original vintage (Gen I) Small Block Chevy went up to 400 Cubic Inches in its latter renditions. Induction options vary all over the place depending on what you want to do, including several aftermarket options. Also valve covers vary by kit. It may help to state the project to help you hone in on an option.

I will third Scale Finishes. Jameston is VERY helpful.

Sadly, they all play games to squeak more money out of us.

It is on Velocity.

Well, before comparing, I edited the photo to brighten it and reduce the shadows. Here it is cleaned up:

Your dually kit is spectacular, including the wheel tire set!!

That is neat.

I use 91% Isopropyl alcohol on my Tamiya TS (Or Testor Lacquer) and it works fine. Immersion for a few hours gets it to slough off. Primer is a little tougher.

I saw the test shot about two weeks ago (not allowed to photograph it). I suspect third quarter some time. No hard facts, just suspicion.

Oops! That's what happens when you quickly respond before heading out the door.

Old news. For some reason, they goofed and already loaded the instructions to their site. http://manuals.hobbico.com/rmx/85-4378.pdf

I vary my detailing on how into the real car the model represents I am. I make a decision on each model on the level of detail I will and what will be working or not. I am not anywhere near as obsessive as Bill, but do find myself trying to correct a model to reflect the 1:1. To me, form, fit and finish are primary. The amount of detail you add does nothing to correct those. Also, how one displays the model can also impact detail. If it won't be visible, do it if you want (you'll know) or let it slide. There also is a point where detail detracts. Try to do all the wiring and plumbing in an engine bay in 1/25 scale and you'll see what I mean. Sometimes you back off to stress the more important parts. But, do what you enjoy. I have a friend who, for years, would do the body mods and get it in primer and stop. That was the part of model building that most interested him. Eventually he did get a couple through to completion, but the design and fabrication are where he got his most enjoyment.

Chevrolet S10 color Radar Blue Metallic. I wound up having to buy a pint of the stuff from an auto supply store. Still have a lot left but haven't opened it in years, may no longer be any good.

That's an older picture I got off a Fotki site. I would have to check the one I have in the stash, but it also was bought over 10 years ago. If interested, best to email Norm and check availability and price.

Scene's unlimited is a good place to start: http://www.scenesunltd.com/products/s41-1-24-f350-17-dually-set-s41

Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland does the streamliner version.

You buff first and then clear. BMF seems to oxidize or some other reaction if not cleared and you will always get some crud when you clean the model. It also does hide the transition and reduces the graininess from the adhesive. To my eye, BMF is a little too shiny for trim but the clear coat does reduce the shine a tad.

Revell (Aurora) coupes are parts kits to me, particularly for an unusual engine or use the rear suspension for a hot rod or custom. Interested in seeing how the Heller convertible compares to the Revell.

What slowpokes might you be referencing?

That kit, around here at swap meets goes for $80-$100.

I have a 1970 Eldo down in the unbuilt stash in the basement. Looking at the photo, it is hard to tell if anything is missing, except the obvious of a taillight (which might be in the box). The only clear plastic is the windshield/backlight and the only red plastic is the taillights. The "heat" warpage (or whatever caused it) would be a no-go for me as a good amount of body work would be needed to correct. My Eldo is molded in orange.

Aventador, Bentley's, newer Ferraris - 458, F12. Maybe some Bimmers, although Herpa sells some

You are not soaking in lacquer thinner are you? You should be able to shoot through the gun though. I have Iwata air brushes and use their Medea cleaner for actual cleaning.

Same as far as I know.