johnbuzzed

I haven't noticed them at Hobby Lobby because, quite frankly, I haven't sought them there. Next time we're there, I'll spend a little more time scanning the racks. Thanks for the heads-up.

Wow, who knew that model company execs were so well off!!! Skyscrapers and everything!

Back in '92 or so, I bought a JoHan '67 Plymouth Fury for $65.00. Unsealed, but complete. Of course, while attempting to make it "better", I butchered it...#$*&%^!+!!! Now, I seek another, which will be treated with the utmost repect... I have never really totaled up what I actually spent on any one model, but when you figure the cost of the original kit, any "donor" kits, specific paints and decals, flock or embossing powder, aftermarket parts, detailing materials, raw materials for fabricating and scratchbuilding, reference material- yikes, that can add up!

Some of the techniques (like tints and filters) used by military modelers would not translate well on many of our car models. Those techniques are used to represent well-used, quickly maintained vehicles, aircraft and vessels that have been exposed to the elements for long periods of time. In many cases, repairs in the form of patches are seen; sometimes, entire panels have been replaced, which does contribute to the multi-color effect. Unless the vehicle is never garaged, a beater or rat rod, a daily driver, a "work truck", etc, I wouldn't go too heavy with many of their weathering techniques. Pinwashes are another story- they do add a lot to any model. Washes are good for any model, when applied in the appropriate areas. A daily driver or weekend warrior/cruiser might be clean and shiny, but under the hood and chassis might be a different story. I do highly recommend to all on this forum to read any of the military modeling magazines or soft-cover books available to learn more about these techniques. Can't hurt. I will be trying the pre-shade and applying a pre-paint pinwash on my '68 Road Runner project, over the primer coat, particularly on the chassis and in panel lines and cowl vents. Pictures will be posted as I progress.

I'm no expert, but that does look good. Go figure.

I have heard that Gorilla Glue expands slightly as it cures, but I have no practical experience with it. I'm satisfied with the Loctite cyanoacrylates that I get at Lowes. Sometimes, it does pay to experiment for one's self, but sometimes, you want to get info and opinions from others first. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that. It can save time and money and grief.

Really cool. I would be happy to have that on my shelf.

The Revell 5 window Deuce. Or, the two door sedan.

I'm not big on Camaros but I do like yours. It looks good and it's tastefully done. I would be happy to have that on my shelf.

That is cool- a nicely built, basic model that would look good on the shelves. I'll bet it was fun to build, too.

Nope, no problems with warpage or fit; quality overall was acceptable. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another. But, I do wonder what the "correct section" would be...?

Yes, I have. They primarily focus on military kits. I have at least one (a 1/72 Huey), which dates back to the late '80s and I have no real complaints about the kit- maybe the decals, if I remember correctly. And I don't remember any real problems with the brand for as long as I have been reading about and building military models. They are not Tamiya, but they're definitely not Palmer Plastics.

I'm continuing on with my '68 Road Runner. When that's done, there's a '40 Ford, a Dodge Dakota and a Saleen Mustang waiting for paint and final assembly, then a '48 Ford Woodie, then to continue on with an SBD-3 and a '34 Ford Pickup altered. Of course, that could all change at the drop of a hat, or the purchase of another kit, or if I see some "inspiration"...

I wouldn't use a flat coat under decals. That's a good way to induce silvering. I know from past experience. Also, articles in every military modeling magazine that I have indicate that builders will either hit the whole model with a coat of clear gloss, apply decals, then clear flat, or hit individual areas with a clear gloss (or Future), apply decals, then, use a clear flat over that.

I haven't been to that Hobbytown since last summer so I have no idea of what's going on. Yeah, the prices for kits were high, but they did have a lot of paint and other building accessories. Oh, well.

How about the Griswold Family Truckster? Cousin Eddie's motor home? Sherriff Andy's Ford?

You're right, it probably wouldn't be too hard to scratchbuild, but I'm getting to the point where the lazy man's way out looks better and better. So many "projects" underway, so many kits on the shelves and so many waiting to be bought... I appreciate being able to fabricate stuff but there are times when I would just like to paint something and glue it to something else to look nice.

The important thing is that you and your family are fine. I hope all goes well for you as time goes by. You'll be building again before you know it.

Yeah, I would get one; a nicely detailed kit like the Revell '09 would be great. Along the lines of contemporary car kits- does anyone know of any aftermarket people who offer modern blowers, etc?

I didn't read thru all of the posts. Did anyone mention the wonderful, straight-wire-thru-the-block front axle yet?

I'll second that. I don't even know if I could build a box-stock snap kit without notes of some sort.

That's correct, and we owned/ I drove a '67 Fury II station wagon, even though NYS designated it differently and Chrysler changed the name in following years.

And, the state of New York registered the cars as "suburbans". Oh yeah- I do like the way this wagon is progressing, Dan. Every time I look at it, it brings back memories

In 1967, the wagons were indeed called Fury- I, II and III. Our family owned a '67 Fury II wagon for 9 years; it was my daily driver for three.

"Build for myself" is not an excuse. That's the reason for building. Whether one builds for his or her shelves, or for contests, or for customer$/client$, we're still building for ourselves. Face it, we like to do it, otherwise, we wouldn't be doing it. For the great majority of us, it is not a mortgage-paying job with medical, dental, vision, etc., benefits. We build because we enjoy it. Each finished model brings a sense of accomplishment: "Look at what I can do." It's a basic human pride of creativity; some might consider pride to be a fault. But, that's life. Most of us here are humans, humans that make mistakes, forget things, screw up, etc. If you were to look carefully at any model, you would find what could be considered to be a mistake, problem, fault or omission. That's life. That's how we all build. I don't care if a builder swears that each of his or her builds will be better than the last ( I do it all the time, and I've been saying that for 54 years of building). Do you know why that happens? It's because we're human. If you can't deal with that fact, perhaps you should pursue another hobby. In my years of being involved with the modeling community via clubs, contests, magazines, etc, I have yet to meet a modeler who considered him or her self to be a star or celebrity or luminary or what-have-you, and I know more than a few who could be considered to be up in the stratosphere as a builder, but I find nothing but humility. I've had contest-winning builds in magazines, on TV, on line; it's definitely a kick. I was inspired by those who were there before me and was happy to reach those self-set goals. I continue to attend contests and shows (but not as often as I used to) and I do find the "We'd like to photograph your model..." cards next to my stuff. It's still a kick to be acknowledged by one's peers. But, I'll always "build for myself", because in the long run, it makes me happy. Go figure. Go back and read my previous post regarding this subject. Maybe then, you'll understand.