69NovaYenko

I agree with both the above comments. The MPC 1/20th version is an oddball scale. Additionally, I had the MPC kit at one time and had a chance to eyeball it up close and personal, Mr Obvious is correct the body-lines don't look right. I eventually got read of it in a trade for two 1/25 scale kits. In mid-year 2011 I had a brief email conversation with Moebius about AMC`s and Javelins in particular. I was told that the prospect of kitting AMC`s sounded promising however, at that time they were heavily vested into doing Mopars, but would keep the suggestion of kitting the Javelin family (`68 thru `74) in mind. So much for that pipe dream. :-(

What model company decision maker do we have to kidnap and hold hostage to get one of the manufacturers to release a series of 1/25 American Motors Company Javelin`s. Retail stores and builders stashes runneth over with G.M`s, Ford`s and Mopars`s while the long defunct American Motors Company cars are TOTALLY over looked as legitimate modeling subjects. There has not been a reissue of ANY Javelin since the long defunct Jo-Han released them as annuals/promos. The `68-70 share a lot of the same sheet metal and suspension so there would be a minimal amount of retooling to do the 1st gen (`68 thru `70) Javelins. I`m aware of this `cause I was bitten by the AMC bug when I purchased a 1:1 `68 with a blown engine in 1977 for $500.00. With the help of friends the engine was rebuilt and a mint pair of hi-back Gremlin bucket seats from a salvage yard were dropped in it. I proudly drove that puppy for ten years with zero problems. Christ I loved those cars! In October of last year Satterwhite78 posted an exquisite `70 AMC Javelin SST Trans-Am car and a `73 Mark Donohue Trans-Am Javelin that drew quite a bite of attention. Why you ask...because it was something FRESH that car modelers don`t see frequently nor have the opportunity to build because the thimble full of original annual kits have become exceedingly scarcest. And, the kits that are for sale on on-line auctions sites are PRICEY as f**k ! And, lastly AMC`s are a drastic departure from the same old G.M., Ford, Mopar subject matter! The Javelin`s sheet metal changed for the `73-`74 model years however, they were stylishly smart looking and I would not be opposed to seeing them reissued as well (I got your back on this one Dave Van). Kit makers are looking for new and unusual subject matter that will strike a chord with car builders and sell. Additionally, all the aforementioned Javelins if kitted have spin-off kit possibilities. There`s the stock option, SST Trans`Am versions (i.e.the Mark Donahue car) and drag veneration's. The Jo-han bodies for the `68-`74 annuals are dead on the money...clone them if you must to get the body dimensions correct. Mostly, bring the the dated one piece chassis with the metal rods for the wheels into the 21st century. Heck truth be told the interior tube and engine from the original annual kits are pretty spot on as well.

This is gonna be one bitching ride!! I will be following this build closely.

Hummm...now that you mention it, that is odd....

gman I recall seeing that episode when it aired live!

Thanks for the reply. The "small" picture appears to be more in line with the "Hurst" version of the `70 Chrysler 300 with the trunk spoiler and hood air scoops. The larger pictures are missing the aforementioned trunk/hood add-ons hence it appears to be more in line with the "stock" version of the subject.

I am aware that Jo-han did a `68 Chrysler 300. However, I was wondering, if the `70 Hurst Chrysler 300 has ever been cast in 1:25 scale as a promo, annual or by a resin caster. Chrysler, in conjunction with Hurst Performance Corporation, developed the A-12 Chrysler 300 Hurst package with high-performance 440ci V8 TNT engine, 727 Torque-Flite automatic transmission, specially designed fiberglass power bulge hood with two depressed rotary hood latches, a winged aerodynamic styled trunk spoiler, sweeping quarter extensions and a striking paint scheme of Spinnaker White with Gold Metallic accents and special striping. Additionally, the car was equipped with factory air conditioning, dual power leather bucket seats, power disc brakes, power steering, power rear deck lid release, power hideaway headlights, vinyl top, styled factory road wheels and a loaded of other luxury comforts.

Chris, nice build..nice color combo!

Freaking on point. My uncle Gene had a `69 Cadillac DeVille hardtop in the exact same color combination...man does this build bring back memories.

AWESOME..truly AWESOME!!!

Hmm...now that`s a thought!

Thanks for the guidance!!!

You differently have my attention..however I was under the impression that the only era correct paint they carried were "ENAMELS". How do I identify their “Non-Enamel” paint products from the “ENAMEL” products on their website?

Besides MCM Automotive Finishes are their other aftermarket vendors in the hobby world that offer "ERA CORRECT" colors ready to shoot in one to two ounce quantities for 1:25 car/truck body panels. I am aware of House of Kolor but a quart of color is far to much for a 1:25 car body not to mention the cost. I was eyeballing Gravity Colors however they are not car manufacturer year specific (not to mention they have a hold on taking new orders until they resolve their back log of orders issue). I`m trying to move away from the "enamel" paints that are marketed by Scale Auto Finishes; while it`s a great product the inconvenience of "dry time" etc is a major bummer!!!

Steve: This is a builder I`m attempting to rebuild; it was painted when I acquired it. I assure you I would not have wasted paint nor my time to apply several color coats to it then attempt to straighten the hood on the back end!

Twisted....

Have vintage Jo-Han kit but it has a slightly warped hood. Looking for any suggestions on how to fit it.

I have to ask..what is your technique for flat/matte finishes to avoid silvering

I`m putting this question out there to get a general concussions on how folks handle the decal process. Should you decal a body before or after clear-coating and waxing. If you decal after the clear-coat and waxing are there any recommendations of how to protect the decals from damage.

Yes, the body was washed and sety aside tio dry for 72 hours before clear-coat was applied.

You are correct..it was shot straight from the can.

Thanks for all the replies and info. By the way, how can you tell when the enamel has "cured" and "fully gassed out".

Thanks for all the advise about the "Pro`s" of using clear lacquers over enamels. However, at this juncture the body has already has been color-coated in enamel. So, is airbrushing Future my most safest/cost effective option for a non-yellowing clear-coat that wont harm the color coat and decals at this juncture?

Lol..not a bad idea!! It took several months recouping emotionally from that train wreck.LOL But, I just finished building another body from a second kit I had..if you first don't succeed try again! Guess, its all part of the learning curve, unfortunately. So, do any of you knowledgeable folks have any recommends for a clear- coat that will not harm the enamel color-coat and decals.

Are you saying that this "quizzing" (for the lack of a better word) was due to a reaction between the K2 clear-coat and the enamel color coat.. If that is the case, do you have any recommendations on what would be the correct type of clear-coat to apply over an enamel color-coat.