southpier

if I do it, priceless.

I think that's the beauty and allure of hobbies: you can focus where your interest lies. model railroading (more so that cars because it's kinetic) has of a variety of disciplines. the guy who can build a brass locomotive at the kitchen table with a file and hammer may be content to run it 'round in circles on a tinplate track. I like a steak once in a while, but don't want to know all of the parts of a cow.

if you could plumb the compressor to a receiver (holding tank) at whatever pressure you can, and then regulate the tank to airbrush pressure I think you would see a vast reduction of the air/ no air pressure problem. have you cleaned the airbrush inner workings? if the unit is clean and working smoothly, your problem might be thick paint. people use the "thin as milk" analogy. there's about a gazillion YouTube airbrushing videos. you'll get the idea after watching 3 or 4. and everyone else will give you their best solution, so you can pick the one which best suits your method of work.

these work pretty good for a while: but either plastruct or evergreen comes in 15" & 24" lengths and then you need something for that. and for the cut-offs to big to toss but too small for the regular stash box. then you'll get so much that you'll be spending time digging for the piece at the bottom.

yup; video games makes people crazy alright

it's been done http://www.kitfoster.com/carport/2006/01/port-o-walls/

recently had someone offer me 50$ to build them a Revell Volkswagen and paint it red. tempting enough ..... nah!

calnaga castings has some that aren't going too fast

I think resin might provide too much resistance. ultimately availability will depend on the car you're trying to wreck. so it doesn't look manufactured (the damage), consider thinning some of the body from behind before wrinkling them (mototool works here). variety of methods are what's going to sell this one.

but I think oft-times we don't know what we don't know. so if better information becomes available it could be embraced. if everyone were happy with their first efforts there would be no need for improvement. or photo etch, bare metal foil, resin, airbrushes ad infinitum .... and if you want to be thrashed about, join Pirate 4x4 and ask something like "how do I do this ...." or BikeForums and have the Freds pig-pile all over you for asking if Shimano ABC is compatible with a Suntour XYZ. makes this joint seem like pre-school.

that Lincoln cab-over is something!

model railroad 'O' scale. i think there's few in that range

see post #272 here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=57206&page=14

but .... do you listen to PBS?

I meant in the junior year of high school.

i infer that some career counseling and a study of the Occupational Outlook Handbook would be a benefit prior to signing and student loan agreement. but it would be really fun to like get paid and stuff to build models.

I've never heard of unstable behavior by a musician

I think whatever degree path a student chooses had better be worth the 200k investment

I feel sorry for your son to be compared to a freakin' golf cart.

I'm on-board with that

I've got a spare engine from the revell '39 sedan delivery lowrider which has the same valve covers if you want it (unbuilt) just pm your snail mail address.

son of a gun. thanks!

Fleming's Department Store - AMT Trophy kits & annuals = $1.19; double kits = $1.49. they had some Jo-Han that I think were $1.39 but I was never interested. I still remember genuflecting in front of the Revell Parts Pack altar. $.49 for plain - $.69 for chrome. pactra spray was $.49, and bottles of testors enamel were $.10 - same for glue.

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