Cool Hand

Nothing like a bit of colour to bring a build to life, maybe try a clear red overcoat help darken it a bit.

Not much detailed info of the process in this update, just roughed in for now to share a few pics to show the overall look of the set up. Might to need get some paint on a few things, as to not get over whelmed later trying to do it all at once after the build process is over.

Thank you for the comments they are very much appreciated Tyres will be ok for now, thanks for mentioning it though. I hope there is enough steering, thinking the over fenders creating a wide body will help. Agree detailed threads sharing the process of how things are achieved is the best thing about the forum. Have learnt a lot my self over the last decade from all the forums observed.

This is very versatile and great for temporary tasks. Doesnt take long for it to start to set up and hold a part in position. Excellent for clear parts like window install's, headlight and tail lights. Bonds well and is easily removed.

Yeah, great inspiration. Like the smoothing out of the engine bay, look forward to seeing what other custom work you do Martin.

Yeah very average kit, but with a bit of effort a half decent shelf model can be built out of it.

Rear links all set in place. Next up is to work out the shock absorbers. Chassis now a roller.

Tidy work on the grille.

Good choice with the colour combo.

Good to see another Aussie posting a wip. Nice bit of progress so far Ben, keep at it mate.

Impressive kit bashing Roger. New intake set up looks the business.

Good luck with the resolutions, I have a lot of started builds that need finishing too. Have similar plans this year, not start any new ones until an old wip is completed.

Taking shape Ismo, looking tuff with the new wheels.

Its good to try new and different things it is how we learn. Of to a good start.

Making some progress there, good start.

As noticed got them painted, impressive that they actually work like the 1:1's They are from Fujimi Tools remix kit.

Started the rear set up. Kit diff replaced with a The Parts Box 9 inch resin piece. Drilled out and installed a 2mm brass axle. Track is to wide by 5mm so removed 2.5mm from each end. After mock up, not enough clearance for the type of suspension that will be installed. Taking idea for rear set up from the 1:1 inspiration car. And sourced some design info from Art Morrison Chassis. Need a re-work, changed with same materials 2mm square. Kit tailshaft will be used. Will need to be shortened a small amount, after rear end is set in place. Rough design work of brackets Using previous technique, transferred to 0.20 styrene. Holes drilled. Cut out and shaped. Attached to the diff. Brackets attached to frame, trailing link ends in place to help determine link lengths. Next task is to finish trailing links and watts links and brackets.

Might not be the usual shiny, but sure shows the effort and detail work you put into the build. Very impressive Guy.

Certainly not the usual subject from you Martin, but it shows your ability in bringing things together and giving it character. Well done.

Great inspiration, liking it already.

Started some work on the front suspension. Purchased these for this build. Temporarily glued together. Use this for glue for some temporary assemblies. Didnt have anything suitable in the spare parts, so had to scratch build some parts from 2.5mm tube. Scalloped Attached second piece. Drilled out some 3.2mm tube with a 2.5mm drill. Fitted the small rings over 2.5mm. Repeated the process for the other ends. Used some 6mm x 4mm to get an equal distance on each side from the frame, and transfer a mark onto the lower arm. To make the mounts a piece of 0.20 was cut to a 3mm wide strip. Drilled each with a 1.2mm and shaped the end. Repeated twice to get 4 ends which will become the mounts. And fitted over some 1.2mm rod for a handle, to shape them the same. Worked out the length. Using same 0.20 x 3mm strip, a piece was cut to attach to the arm first. After cutting the 4 pieces fitted them to a 1.2mm rod and used as a handle to help attach to arm plate. Will work out the top mount later. Need to get a few other things in the engine bay built first. Next will move onto the rear and get the diff etc figured out and situated. I know its rough, but doing the best I can with skills I have.

LOL! yes always. Thats how I like be. When I was an apprentice many years ago, old timer I worked with taught me to tidy up and put tools away after each process of the job. And then repeat and do a good clean up at the end of each day. That has stayed with me all my working life and do the same with home life with everything I do no matter what the task is.

Yep, agree those wheels will work and look great. Thats whats most enjoyable about Japanese curbsides, quick simple builds that are great for maintaining skills and having a break between the full detail builds. Another following.

Again after some fussing, worked out some stub axles. And using same technique as shown before. Spot glue with 401/super glue, some 1.5mm styrene plate. Spot glue the paper onto the styrene. Cut and shaped using tools previously shown and drilled. Separate. Cut some small squares of 1mm. Flipped over the mitre box and used the corner to set up the pieces. Component turned around to set up other end. Set the components up on each end, that way they will be opposite to each other. Using a small cap screw and a pin vice as a handle to hold whilst shaping the ends. Quick test fit. Upper A arms made same way as the lowers. Rough design. Test fitting, upper A arm mount not finalized yet. Just spot glued for now. Quick test fit of the wheels, adjustments will be made later. And sussing out how its looking and thinking about things ahead.

Thanks Bruce, always enjoy seeing other members share the build process in detail, just trying to give back and do the same as it can be helpful to see how things are done. Thank you Greg. Its a challenging project but breaking it down into sections and tackle them one at a time makes it less over whelming. Depends on the joint, all the chassis frame joints are super glue and it is applied like it would be welded on a 1:1. Other joints that require positioning to get aligned etc, plastic cement is used to allow to time for movement. Then once finalized apply super glue over that to lock it in place and that helps provide a bit more strength to the joint. The glues used are.