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Everything posted by Cool Hand
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Ideas for tiny racing seats
Cool Hand replied to Fat Brian's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Just curious are you referring to the actual Fujimi seats, or 1:1 seats ?? -
Ideas for tiny racing seats
Cool Hand replied to Fat Brian's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
By you saying tiny, I think of the seats in this set. If you want some pics with measurements let me know. -
Tamiya Nismo R34 Gt-R Z-Tune (first car build)
Cool Hand replied to super_average_gunpla's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Judging by your Gundam builds you will have no worries building an Automotive subject. Look forward to seeing how the Skyline turns out. -
Bit of progress, got lucky and was able to fit up the Shelby radiator with very little effort. Few strips of styrene to hold it in place. Also smoothed out the fire wall. Just need to figure out the inner fenders, do some body and prep work. Then time start shooting 1500 surfacer and paint.
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Thanks and yeah getting a bit done here and there when im in the mood. Hardest part I find with a scratch built chassis, is getting it look some what scale accurate. Using a layout is the easiest way to design and build a frame/chassis. Laying frame would have been sweet, but using the 23's kinda limited how much it could be dropped. Yes mate it will be purple like the original build. Hobby design products are excellent.
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Making some good progress there Steve, thanks for sharing the tips on how you are going about dropping the ride height. Looking forward to a stance mock.
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Interesting colour selection, those AK Extreme Metal paints sure do spray nice. You going oob stock build ??
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Nice bit of sculpting on those fender flare's, keeping the original lip is a pretty trick idea.
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Appreciate the comments Anton and Trevor Stock strips up to 3mm thick use a RP Toolz chopper, for the rest use a razor saw in the mitre box. Got a more few things done. Scratch built a fuel tank to go in the back of the frame. Bed/tray floor. Wheel tubs. Scratch built air tank and solenoids, to go with 3D printed compressor's. Got the compressor's from an old mate a few years back. New trans tunnel and seats. The seats from Hobby Design.
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Thanks mate, glad the hard part is out the way. Can move on to finalizing some other area's, then prep and start shooting some surfacer and paint.
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Thanks for the kinds words. It does, but its only a top half insert. Not as well detailed as Tamiya's R32. But I feel the Aoshima kit has a nicer body and is simpler to build . Speaking of simpler, the chassis is basic and has molded in detail. So had to get creative and use liquid mask.
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Previous build. Built from this kit. Wheels. Paint. Inspiration for the colour from this.
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Thanks Anton. Need to have patience for sure and certain tools can help too. Pretty much finished getting the chassis to the roller stage. Very happy to have set the engine so the super charger is showing with the bonnet/hood removed.
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Look forward to seeing how you go about this build Steve.
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Got the front air bags roughed in. And added some pieces to the frame.
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Rear suspension roughed in.
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Liking the smoothed out style. Done well Jim.
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Bit of progress on the chassis. Just about got the front suspension roughed in.
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1990 Mustang LX - SVT Cobra DOHC Powered! UPDATE! 1/22/23
Cool Hand replied to Dennis Lacy's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Yep, this is going to be well worth following. Liking what you have planned Dennis. Always impressed how you kit bash on your builds. -
Q-tip slightly damp with Tamiya X-20 enamel thinner or lighter fluid will work fine over bare plastic and lacquer paint. I wouldnt recommend using over enamel paint, it can be done but you will need to be very cautious and precise to not get it where dont want it.
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Decanting Small Amounts from Rattlecans
Cool Hand replied to Snake45's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
For small amounts of decanted paint I recycle Tamiya acrylic jars. Bit of tape over the top. I found some plastic straws that are a good press fit over the Tamiya nozzle, I super glue around the straw to seal and lock in place. Also helps to add a few vent holes to let the excess gas escape. After decanting into the jar, I pretty much do the same as Trevor. Wait 30 mins, then occasionally stir gently until paint bubble's to near top of jar, stop and then let it settle back down. Repeat until its fully gassed out before pouring into airbrush paint cup. -
Well done Keith you cranked that out quick, very tidy build.
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Nailed it Steve. Add me to the list of cant wait to see the WIP of the Camaro.