Cool Hand

Good luck with the resolutions, I have a lot of started builds that need finishing too. Have similar plans this year, not start any new ones until an old wip is completed.

Taking shape Ismo, looking tuff with the new wheels.

Its good to try new and different things it is how we learn. Of to a good start.

Making some progress there, good start.

As noticed got them painted, impressive that they actually work like the 1:1's They are from Fujimi Tools remix kit.

Started the rear set up. Kit diff replaced with a The Parts Box 9 inch resin piece. Drilled out and installed a 2mm brass axle. Track is to wide by 5mm so removed 2.5mm from each end. After mock up, not enough clearance for the type of suspension that will be installed. Taking idea for rear set up from the 1:1 inspiration car. And sourced some design info from Art Morrison Chassis. Need a re-work, changed with same materials 2mm square. Kit tailshaft will be used. Will need to be shortened a small amount, after rear end is set in place. Rough design work of brackets Using previous technique, transferred to 0.20 styrene. Holes drilled. Cut out and shaped. Attached to the diff. Brackets attached to frame, trailing link ends in place to help determine link lengths. Next task is to finish trailing links and watts links and brackets.

Might not be the usual shiny, but sure shows the effort and detail work you put into the build. Very impressive Guy.

Certainly not the usual subject from you Martin, but it shows your ability in bringing things together and giving it character. Well done.

Great inspiration, liking it already.

Started some work on the front suspension. Purchased these for this build. Temporarily glued together. Use this for glue for some temporary assemblies. Didnt have anything suitable in the spare parts, so had to scratch build some parts from 2.5mm tube. Scalloped Attached second piece. Drilled out some 3.2mm tube with a 2.5mm drill. Fitted the small rings over 2.5mm. Repeated the process for the other ends. Used some 6mm x 4mm to get an equal distance on each side from the frame, and transfer a mark onto the lower arm. To make the mounts a piece of 0.20 was cut to a 3mm wide strip. Drilled each with a 1.2mm and shaped the end. Repeated twice to get 4 ends which will become the mounts. And fitted over some 1.2mm rod for a handle, to shape them the same. Worked out the length. Using same 0.20 x 3mm strip, a piece was cut to attach to the arm first. After cutting the 4 pieces fitted them to a 1.2mm rod and used as a handle to help attach to arm plate. Will work out the top mount later. Need to get a few other things in the engine bay built first. Next will move onto the rear and get the diff etc figured out and situated. I know its rough, but doing the best I can with skills I have.

LOL! yes always. Thats how I like be. When I was an apprentice many years ago, old timer I worked with taught me to tidy up and put tools away after each process of the job. And then repeat and do a good clean up at the end of each day. That has stayed with me all my working life and do the same with home life with everything I do no matter what the task is.

Yep, agree those wheels will work and look great. Thats whats most enjoyable about Japanese curbsides, quick simple builds that are great for maintaining skills and having a break between the full detail builds. Another following.

Again after some fussing, worked out some stub axles. And using same technique as shown before. Spot glue with 401/super glue, some 1.5mm styrene plate. Spot glue the paper onto the styrene. Cut and shaped using tools previously shown and drilled. Separate. Cut some small squares of 1mm. Flipped over the mitre box and used the corner to set up the pieces. Component turned around to set up other end. Set the components up on each end, that way they will be opposite to each other. Using a small cap screw and a pin vice as a handle to hold whilst shaping the ends. Quick test fit. Upper A arms made same way as the lowers. Rough design. Test fitting, upper A arm mount not finalized yet. Just spot glued for now. Quick test fit of the wheels, adjustments will be made later. And sussing out how its looking and thinking about things ahead.

Thanks Bruce, always enjoy seeing other members share the build process in detail, just trying to give back and do the same as it can be helpful to see how things are done. Thank you Greg. Its a challenging project but breaking it down into sections and tackle them one at a time makes it less over whelming. Depends on the joint, all the chassis frame joints are super glue and it is applied like it would be welded on a 1:1. Other joints that require positioning to get aligned etc, plastic cement is used to allow to time for movement. Then once finalized apply super glue over that to lock it in place and that helps provide a bit more strength to the joint. The glues used are.

Transplant the Viper engine in the Cuda.

Thanks again for the replies. Appreciate the info Spence. My favourite pic I have of the build.

Started on the front end. Made a cross member out of 2mm x 4mm and filed some grooves to provide a seat for some 2.4mm tube. Also used some 2mm x 2mm square solid for engine mounts. Attached the 2.4mm which A arms will locate to and also cut short pieces for arm ends. After fussing for awhile, settled on way to make some A arms. Using the design on the paper, a piece of acrylic sheet and some sticky tape. Made up a quick jig to build the A arms. 2mm acrylic. Cut out the design, covered it with sticky tape and stuck it down on the acrylic piece. Drill some holes for pin location. Position 2.4mm tube over the pins. Cut and bend some 1.6mm rod. Cut out section of the tape and paper. Using super glue attach a spacer(2.4mm tube) between the rods and using a pin/1mm alumninum locate and fit up arm ends. Glue the three joins, allow to set up then remove. Fit up to cross member location. Forgive the roughness, as the topic title implies it is a Back Yard Special. Stub axles and top arms next update.

Thank you Jason, hopefully the concept will evolve and be come be a reality. Thanks Ismo, just experimenting to try and see a cool result of an idea. Try to think and plan ahead, but always something comes up requiring a re-think.

I understand the vision and like the idea. In Australia a lot of our burn out cars dont have bonnets/hoods due to the super charger and the scoops. So jokingly, id suggest putting a funny car super charger and scoop on your engine and say you are building a car to compete in the Aussie burnout competitions. Just trying help out with a reason to not put a hood on. LOL!

Cant say ive seen a built up of this year Buick, interested to see the supercharger poking out of the engine bay.

Like the source for the idea, I will follow along and look forward to the build. Have been Spiderbait fan for many years.

Just trying out an idea, think I can make these over fenders work. They from the Aoshima Rasty S13 Silvia kit #50989

Thanks JC, going to be challenging but im trying. Thanks mate, hope to keep the progress on going and not get burnt out. LOL! LOL! I dont know jack about drift cars, but like to think I can glue some styrene together and make something. Hello Martin. Just trying to share some techniques learned along the way from many people I have observed and learnt from in the hobby and real world. Yeah I have attempted a few scratch built chassis, only one build ever made it through to completion though. Thats what I like the most about the hobby, sharing the builds and inspiring each other. The days of the old Lay It Low model car forum is where I seen many builders who inspired me and I learnt alot of scratch building techniques from the mini truck builders. Hope to keep pushing forward and turn the dream/idea into reality. Could be a cool looking set up, if I can make it happen.

Need to remove the engine bay so the body will fit over the chassis. Also shave the door handle and remove pillar, prefer the hard top look. Set the frame on some taped down 6mm x 4mm rectanlge tube, this sets the ride height. Placed the body over the chassis. Wheel mock. The kit has two engines, but only has all the parts for the 302. ] Prefer the big block , so Il use a resin TPB engine it is exact the same block Thats where im currently at, more progress soon.

Cut out the shape press down hard so the blade scribes the plastic. Peel the paper of, and shade some pencil into the scribed line. Can be tricky to cut this section, so start of drilling some holes to create an opening for next procedure. Cut the hole bigger. Various things used to cut and shape Also used the poor mans milling machine. Carefully slide the vice around to remove material. Once fully cut out, finish shaping with a file and sanding sticks. Then separate and do a final sand. Much better to do these sections one piece as it stronger with no joins. Get all pieces cut and cleaned up and start to tape them down on the layout. Tape every piece down to lock it in place. Using super glue spot tack all the joints, used plastic cement on the upper pieces that were not taped this allows time to get positioning correct.Then lock in place with super glue Once glue has set up, remove from layout. Some glue will seep down through joins bonding the chassis to the laminate. Carefully pry up with chisel blade. Thats the basics done, but lots more to do.