Mike Kucaba

You need an indexing table and I have seen these mounted on a drill press, but that that is not very common. Usually they are mounted on a milling machine table (Bridgeport is commonly dropped as a name for it). You would calculate the distance between hole centers and drill a hole, then rotate the table that distance. In 1/25th I'm sure there is a way to do this but I'm at a loss as to how economically. I believe I bought some wheels like you show cast in white metal. I'll have to check

I always liked the 1:1 Taurus. It would have been great as a rear wheel drive 4 door sedan done up like the T-bird. And the wagon looked great too.

No, But you could 'fondle" it

Neither is Utopia.

I have found over the years that the visor only magnifies the addiction

Only one comment.... FANTASTIC!!!!!

I have no tip on the color, but think about using a piece of tubing that fits to isolate the rim from the center and shoot the paint thru that.

I'd like to see one of those cabs chopped, sectioned, narrowed and slammed to the ground!

Making the mold would be easy, as you could just attach it to anything flat that would contain the rubber. Getting a bubble free casting in resin might be a problem.

Nice build and a wild chop! It does look a little undone without bumpers or pans. More so in the rear view.

Thanks Art. As I approach the ripe old age of 65 I had a senior moment.

After driving since I was 16'(I'm approaching 65) I don't think only truck drivers should be subject to a DOT physical for a the privilege of driving. I think an intelligence test should be involved too. Recently here in AZ there have been two horrendous "accidents" involving wrong way driving. Both drivers were impaired and one was a 68 Y.O. grandmother with her grandson.

The first real red line tires I ever saw were Firestone Wide ovals. They were some what wider than typical tires of the time. Probably '66-'67.

There is also the American Graffiti version, a '55 I believe By AMT/Ertl . Better chassis detail.

Does anyone read Scale Auto Modeler? Is it currently available? I think it is UK based.

"What kind of thinner would dry slower? What about mineral spirits, would that help?" Go to an auto paint and body shop supply store and get some thinner there. Get thinner designed for high outside temperatures. I don't think mineral spirits would work.

I usually do 1 part PAINT to 2-3 parts thinner. A thinner that is meant to dry slower will help also .

Thin the paint, It must be too thick and /or your too far from the model.

Well... Like anything else that isn't specifically designed to be used on model decals you would need to do some R&D. I started with a weak solution and went from there. Like Mark said it doesn't always work, but neither do solvents and sets that are made for decals work either. I remember the first time I used Solvaset brand . Still have nitemares....

I use it. Have several bottles at different dilution percents.

I'd like to see the pics but I don't have permission?

I like the color combo and the whole theme. The '64 chassis is a stroke of genius ,but why worry about a "correct" gas tank on a great custom?

I still have problems just posting regular messages here, let alone adding pictures.

Well IMHO that is not the way to fill a hole. Start by shaving down a piece of plastic sprue, you can use a pencil sharpener to do this real quick. Get a tight fit and even let some protrude from both sides.Use your CA glue and let that dry. snip off the excess and sand smooth. Epoxy glue is just one of many useful tools to use in modeling, but not necessary the best depending on the task at hand.