Mike Kucaba

Yeah, I found that one too, but couldn't post the link. There is also one that uses tubing and makes what I would call a "reasonable facsimile " of a piano hinge. Covered with paint, it looks convincing and was a heck of a lot easier to build

ACME made a diecast kit of a 32 coupe and roadster'. It may be 1/18th

I remember a tutorial in MCM years ago.

I pumped gas in '69-'70.... cleaned windshields too...THAT was my favorite as the mini-skirt fashion was getting going

I didn't stay long. I was getting over some kind of intestinal something or other. I didn't even setup to vend.I was happy to see the trophy I sponsored get such a great turnout.

Hey! That looks like my bedroom! I have several of those stacked up.

I agree! Have only used CT and was pleased as punch. Now, As good a modeler as you are, why didn't you remove the mold seams on some of those parts

I stopped following this for a while, WOW is not enough of a comment. I would deffinately be up for one or two copies.

It's what I DIDN'T get that irked me!! Two Revell Ford GT 40 kits lost by the P.O. OR stolen by someone in the park where I live

It depends on the model car . Unit body cars are usually body color all over, and if a large one it could need 2oz. and that's if everything goes well...stuff happens. I'd err to too much than not enough.

This is one I'm interested in! You probably have some great reference. Are you staying with the kit hinges?

All my experience with future has been to thin it with denatured alcohol and airbrush it. I think that a few days drying time would be prudent. The clear I sprayed over it was ppg clear and that was airbrushed. BTW that blue looked flat. What Testors was it? Acrylic or enamel?

Why don't you want to use Future? I use that over decals and then any lacquer can be applied over it. Did this on an ALA Kart kit years ago. The Future and all clear lacquer were airbrushed. The model looks great in spite of the decal/ CC disaster.

Thin your paint some more and try adjusting the air pressure.

I have had my kits stored here since 2008 in a rented storage place. It's 10 x15 and most all kits that I have had the occasion to open have been okay. The resin has even survived well. I do move as much as possible away from the OH door in the hotter months. One thing I have found is that storing the flat boxes on their long sides on a shelf helps alleviate any crushing. Another thing to consider when discussing warping when opening a sealed kit is was it the heat or was it warped from the company.

A stunning model! I might have chosen a different interior color myself, but the red is definitely nice.

Homosote board and t-pins have worked. The H-board won't burn and the t-pins help jig everything up.

OOPS! It's for the Challenger.

WOW some nice stuff. I contacted him a long time ago about the 1/16th Ramchargers set. Do you have an email? Thanks

Outstanding! As usual.

Looks like you put on some weight

Now I remember! You are the one that I used to drool over in FSM with the radial engine article. . Very nice work on the whole car .

Okay, this thread has had a wealth of info, but are all the Fujimi kis from the same molding, or have there been upgrades to the mold?

That's a good one. You would probably have to read all the magazine and online reviews to find out. I have never seen a list of curbsides and if anyone has else I'd like to see it too. A suggestion would be to ask here before making a purchase.

Not to pick a nit, but that dash Harry shows looks like it has padding on it. It's probably vinyl.