Brutalform

Any info on when the release date is for the Chevelle SS 396??

Pretty much the same question I had when building mine. Gene (Geno),helped me with my question with a good pic of the actual car with the bulge in the hood.

I’ve bought and used the Harts Parts hood, and had good results. Minimal cleanup around the scoop openings, and an overall nice fit. He also sells the bench seat for the 69 RR as well.

Found out that he has no way to print the gold foil of the decals. So I’m probably out of luck.

Didn’t see any on the Bay, and I don’t have FB. I messaged the seller to see if he could help me out.

I wish I knew about these decals. I had the car masked originally to have the front fenders and hood remain white, just like the 1:1car. Then I realized these decals I bought don’t have any of the gold foil trim. So I decided to just paint the fenders and tip of the hood all blue. It would have looked bad without the gold trim to separate the white and blue. Your decals even has the “Plymouth” for the hood and mine does not. Oh well... In to the purple pond it will go, if I can score these decals. Probably will end up cutting the Hilborn tubes, and building the stick shift version.

Did very little on the AWB. I didn’t realize I didn’t have anymore racing harnesses for the interior. I ordered a few sets from ProTech, for this and the other couple AWB cars I plan on building. Got the roll bar built and cut apart the dash, at least.

Went to a horror show in Allentown today, and stopped in the Ollies there. They have a big supply of Dupli Color primer cans for $2.99. I should have enough primer for a long long time.

Got the kit grill separated from the trim. Now just a little more cleaning up with a file, and getting the grill slightly bent like the on the car.

A couple of pics to better explain...

Thanks everyone. JC the PE parts are from MCG. David, the grill will bend very easily to resemble the real grill. I notice on the real car there is a body color support directly behind the center of the grill. Right now, I am painstakingly removing the center from the kit supplied grill, trying to get the chrome trim that surrounds the grill off in one piece. Hopefully if it all works out as planned, it will hold the PE grill in place, acting like a frame. Good thing I have a couple extras lying around just in case this one gets messed up. As for the door trim, there is a piece molded in the clear side window that separates the door and rear glass. It could be painted white to match the car, and then add some strip styrene around the top.

Also got the wheels done. These are the decals I’ll be using.

Wanted to use a PE grill, so you can see through the front just like the 1:1 car. So I had to cut some of the stock grill piece out. More later...

Body has the panel lines deepened, primed and painted Tamiya Pure White. After masking is done Tamiya Deep Metallic Blue will be laid down. No clear, as I read these cars weren’t perfect looking “show cars”.

I drilled the manifold fuel block so I can run fuel lines to each separate tube, and a main fuel supply line to the under hood fuel tank. After the holes were drilled in the tubes, each line will get a hollow bolt head, where the line fits the tube. That will be later as I do the engine final assembly.

Got bored with the 65 Galaxie. Just not feeling it, so back on the shelf it goes. Couldn’t wait to get started on this Moebius AWB. I plan to add a little more detail to the Hilborn injection system, using some black wire. I’m using this photo from the Max Perf book, as a reference. This system will use the long tubes, because from what I’ve read, the long tubes were used on the automatic cars, and the short on the four speeds. Smiths car started out as a four speed, so this is the route I’m taking.

I usually let it dry overnight. Handling it carefully usually doesn’t pose any problems. It does a fantastic job when you have to mock up the parts to make sure everything is going to fit correctly on final assembly.

Well it’s back up to $93.

I hung out and drank beer and whisky!!

How is a non registered user allowed to bid?

Good. Maybe someone reported it. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to see something is definitely amiss here. I WAS going to bid on it, but I’m going to pass.

For joining plastic tube and rod, I use Tennax, ProWeld, and PlastiStruct. For temporary joining parts, Elmers White. For general joining un painted parts, Tamiya, Extra Thin, and Tamiya regular cement. For super quick joining of parts, Zap CA glue, depending on the situation I’ll add some accelerator. And two part 5 min epoxy for painted parts that need to be positioned correctly. I also use Tamiya Acrylic Clear, for a lot of little odd things, like helping tiny decals to stay put, and adding PE parts. Also I always keep some watch crystal cement handy for windshields, rear view and side mirrors, and door handles.

There is a sucker born every minute!

Like I said mine has a painted body, so I should, at the very least, get a quick $50 for it.... lol

Good things come to those who wait.