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Codi

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Everything posted by Codi

  1. Thanks Greg, thought I'd post a couple pics of whats been taking me so long. Making the tank support struts & fuel line from the tank to the pump was the better part of a day. Getting a radius to work for the fuel line was a pain. Finally I inserted .6mm into .9mm and inserted that into 1.2mm s/steel tube, heated it in the middle with a torch and got the necessary radius to make it work without crimping. A LOT of experimenting went into that to make it work out. The spring inside the tube trick didn't work as it's too tight there. Picture a 3/4" square cube inside the frame rails and then jamming the fuel & oil lines, oil filters and the pump all within a centimeter of the tank. Ugh is all I can say but it all works now & I've got the assembly ordered figured out. cheers, tim The clamps etc. on the fuel line are not in place yet, this is just a fitment mock-up as an fyi.
  2. Sorry for the late reply guys. I did want to acknowledge everyone for the sentiments expressed. No pics today. I've been going back and tweaking parts and brackets in anticipation of assembly. There is no wasted space and even 1/32' of an inch makes all the difference in many instances in what goes where etc. and the order of assembly will be critical as some pieces MUST go on/in before others or it just won't happen. Next week I'll start the body & chassis bracing / brackets so I can begin assembly shortly afterwards. A lot of plating and parts detailing has to happen first. I'll take some pics of all the pieces for the car in one shot and then do a final order of assembly list. Again, thank you! Tim
  3. With regard to the "rumble" this car makes, I can happily verify it is one NASTY sounding BEAST. To shamelessly quote the old ad, "It isn't your fathers Oldsmobile".......... The list of pieces and components machined or fabricated himself on this car is testimony to Dave's all around talent as a fabricator/builder. Congrats Dave, looks fantastic.
  4. Nice pics. Thanks for sharing them with us.
  5. more baby steps that took way to long to get done.....cheers, tim
  6. Very cool Luis, would love to see some engine shots with the hood removed from it's supports if you have any. cheers
  7. Nicely done Brian.
  8. Paul, (mr68gts) I tried your technique and I like what I see. I stripped the Crower on my car and like the new finish much better. I think it takes a little differently on metal, brass in my case, but it looks better and closer all the same. Thanks for sharing the tip. cheers, tim
  9. John, Brad, Chris, Dave & Dave - Thanks, this stuff is taking loads of time. Made fittings for the bottles today and some other dumb stuff and it took me 3 hours at the bench. Can't wait to get onto getting the body mounted etc. Art, too funny sir, I literally laughed out loud when I read your post Jim, I just wash the chassis after each solder session with dawn dish liquid and rinse well with cold water & immediately blow it off with my air brush. Then I'll go over it lightly with a piece of fine steel wool and or a used dremel polishing wheel, the extra fine variety. Stays pretty decent for several weeks at a time that way for me. I just try to keep it shiny to ensure that any and all flux is removed from the chassis after each session. That stuff can be nasty as you know. Hope this helps, tim
  10. Trust me John, you keep building, we'll keep looking. Can't wait to see THAT paint out in the sun light. Congrats again John on a truly outstanding car and good luck at the shows! cheers, tim
  11. Fire bottle hard lines are mocked up. The pics don't show the nozzles I created for the ends which will be added after install. I did the same for the brake lines but no pics as I'm getting ready to solder on the various tabs to the chassis for them. Too many "honey do" things around the house lately and this stuff takes time but still moving forward with it. cheers, tim
  12. John, I would be SOOO proud to call that one mine. It's just a beautiful build. I couldn't wait to see you put down the paint and you sure didn't disappoint. Each new build you complete becomes one of my favorites. Congratulations, tim
  13. Maxx, I have 6" of detail master hose that is 2.8mm in thickness. I don't have the original package it came in but it is theirs. If that's the part number you're seeking, I'll gladly send it if you drop me a PM and provide your shipping address info. Cheers, Tim
  14. Morning guys, your posts are most welcome as I'm going to need all the encouragement I can get as I approach final assembly. After posting the pics and reviewing where I'm at, it's very apparent that assembly will be quite a challenge. The Henry pro mod that I had worked on was challenging but "packaging" is another story altogether. This is when 1/25th scale gets to be a bit daunting, at least for me. There are so many considerations of installation order, fuel, oil, fire bottle, brake, throttle, shut-off and other such lines to go in what is a crowded space............well, let's just say that it will be a challenge even though Joe was quite humorous in his assessment of my abilities which I want to say thanks as well for the vote of confidence. I always underestimate how much time will be needed to do something but I'm going to generously provide 2 months for final assembly. I hope that's all I'll need. Back to it, cheers, tim
  15. Getting started on the brake lines & brackets. Time to take some pics as reference for future final assembly which I've no doubt will be quite the challenge for me. Cheers, Tim Got a chance to take some pics in natural light finally. Helps to see what's what.
  16. Hey Chris, as an fyi, I'll cut the .2 nickel rod short as it enters the tube on the chassis rail and insert it into a hiroboy flexible spring cable. The .2 slips inside of it beautifully. The pic doesn't show that. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused you. cheers
  17. Chris, Albion nickel/silver tube or rod. Comes in .1mm on up. I think I used .2 for the chute. There is a US distributor for their products that I go to, Mmodelstore.com They also have a decent selection of brass tube in all sizes (even down to .3) in millimeters. cheers, tim
  18. Many thanks to each of you that posted. I don't want to appear rude and not acknowledge each of you individually but I for the sake of some brevity on this thread, I'll just say a big ol' thank you to each and every one of you!! For those that have just peeked in, thanks for following along. More puttering. Brake lines are next then body work, firewall and brackets for mounting the body. Before moving on I took some time this weekend to fab up some tabs and brackets for the chutes & fuel cut-off. The fuel cut-off "T" handle is actually made up of a piece of brass rod & brass tube then painted Testors Guards Red. Put the handbrake in the pics too. All of the tabs / brackets on the car are soldered on. I've gotten pretty confident in my soldering skills now wherein I'm not as concerned about loosening other joints etc. while putting on new ones. Everything on this build has either been flame soldered (sweat soldered I believe it's also referred to) and my American Beauty resistance soldering rig. I document a lot for my own benefit for when final assembly commences. I'll print out my own pics and scribble notes on it so I know what I planned for in advance. Sorry, a few nuts to put on the brackets you see and then they'll be ready for final. Cheers to one and all! tim
  19. Puttering around on the bench today & I thought I'd try to do some proper clamps for the main fuel line. There's a flexible rubber hose that will join the main tank line to the fuel pump. The material for the hose that was the closest to the real thing I could find was some black shrink tube. To make the bend I'll insert a used watch spring inside so it won't collapse. The 4 clamps are 1.7mm diameter brass tube with .5mm tube soldered on top. I then thinned them down to size, cleaned them up and nickel plated them. Lastly I inserted a T2M bolt to simulate the real thing. cheers, tim
  20. You've done a great job on that body Daniel. Can't wait to see the rest of the build. cheers, tim
  21. And 10 minutes later I'm still staring at the pics. Thanks for the posts and pics from all angles John. A lot to absorb................wow! cheers, tim
  22. Thanks Jurgen for sharing your model. I wasn't familiar with this particular model but without a doubt, it's a beauty. cheers, tim
  23. THAT'S very cool. congrats on a fine build. cheers, tim
  24. Fantastic work Jason. Just fantastic. cheers, tim
  25. Chris - I got a whiff of "Chris Flu" and tore it apart and re-worked it. Got it done now but spent another 15+ hours on it. I think I'm about 35 hours or so all in on this part. I TOTALLY underestimated the effort this was going to take. You have my utmost respect on how you did your Vega pump assembly!! Pete - Hopefully you like the re-vamped pump v. the earlier pics. Randy - Still got nothing on you but I proved to myself on this part that I can still "do tedious" when it becomes necessary. Dave - Thanks sir. Art - Appreciated man. Not a hilborn however, I modeled it after the Enderle 110 pump. Thank you for the nice sentiments!!! Mr. Dave - Thanks sir, you kinda beat me to the final pics of it. Completed now and onto the next item on the list. Always appreciate your stopping by and checking it out. For those of you that have seen Dave's 37' Chevy before, be sure to check out his recent pics in his Fotki album, that BEAST is really moving along now and I'm sure you'll like it as much as I do. Completed Pump Pics -
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