Toner283

It is not gold paint or gold anodizing. It is a coating called Dow 7. Dow 7 is a chromate conversion process. It results in a golden finish with red and green iridescent hues. Usually used on magnesium parts. Magnesium was and is very popular for wheels (and other parts) on drag cars due to its light weight. Magnesium can be polished but maintaining a shine on magnesium parts requires constant upkeep. Go a few weeks without polishing them and they will start to turn dark. When you see pictures of old race cars that have wheels on them that are a very very dark grey almost black the wheels are probably magnesium that has tarnished. The front wheels on the car pictured appear to be polished magnesium. A very good approximation of Dow 7 coating is model masters jet exhaust.

Modelhaus has several different ones.

Do they have a Do Not Call Registry in your state? Up here they have one in Ontario. I was having the same problem you are, where 90% of the calls were not actual calls but spam. I registered my name and number on the government do not call list and the B.S. calls dropped off to almost nothing.

Does anyone know of a source for old speed equipment decals for the side of a sedan delivery or a panel van? I am thinking like a 40's Edelbrock logo, Hilborn, Bell helmets, Weiand, Casler cheater slicks, Offenhauser equipment, Iskenderian cams or McGurk engineering. Something along those lines. Think something that you would have seen on the side of a sedan delivery or a panel van on the salt at Bonneville in the late forties or early fifties. I am hoping to find something already sized to fit on the side panel of a panel van or a sedan delivery. I have a 40 Ford in the works currently then I'm hoping to build the 37 Ford panel van and a couple of others as well. Any tips on where I might find this stuff would be greatly appreciated. I have never made my own decals but I have the feeling that I may have to learn how in the next while.

Lol. Good point. I finished this one at 4 am the night before our clubs show. I was kinda fuzzy headed by the time I was done. Probably lucky I didn't glue the body on backwards.

Built this one for the american drag car challenge over at Vintage Drag Models. Mostly box stock frame and rear suspension. Front drop axle and tie rod out of a Revell Deuce kit with all the extra "stuff" removed from it. Drag link made out of modified parts from the model T kit. Front hair pins are from the T kit with the bat wings hijacked from the four bars in one of the Revell deuce kits. Front and rear wheels and tires from the Boot Hill express kit. The engine is from a Lil Coffin kit. Distributor and coils from the T kit. I was originally going to use the valve covers from one of the parts packs but decided to go with the chrome valve covers from the Lil Coffin instead. The car that I used for inspiration has black steelies and blackwall slicks on it but I decided to go with the five spokes and whitewall slicks for a little more pop. Parts box zoomies, not sure from what. All chrome has a coat of Tamiya smoke to knock down the shine a bit. Hope you like her. This one was a lot of fun to put together. Here is the inspiration

The white one with the panel paint decals on the box cover does not. Stock wheels and hubcaps are there though.

You are all wrong. Kinda. If you slow down the movie and pause it as the car hits the dozer, it is actually a white Camaro that gets destroyed and burns. Presto-chango hollywood magic car. The cat looks great. Weathering looks real.

Thanks for the kind words folks. She won't ever win a beauty contest but I think she looks great all the same.

An old built up I rescued at the last model club swapmeet I went to. It was on one of the vendors tables and it just kind of spoke to me from across the room with the marked up yellow paint and the hand painted flames. Only paid 10 bucks for it with no engine, handles, mirror, taillights or antenna. Upon closer inspection when I got home, I also discovered that it had the wrong chassis underneath it. It had one out of the AMT 36 Ford kit that didn't fit very well. The front inner wheel wells had also been cut out at some point and were mia. I felt sorry for the poor thing and set about seeing what I could do to rescue it. I dug into my parts stash and grabbed an old broken fender unit to cut the inner fenders out of and graft them into this one, then gathered up some handles, taillights, a mirror and an antenna. Found a spare chassis, axles and flathead engine from another issue of this kit. Used the finned heads, fan/belt and tri carb setup from the monogram 40 Ford truck. Also grabbed the battery from aother 40 sedan kit and the beehive oil filter from the 40 truck kit. Went about rebuilding and repainting it putting new parts on it without disturbing any more of the original build then was absolutely necessary (funky green "custom" interior and all). It also had steelies with baby moons and pinner white walls on it when I got it and I changed those to wide fives from a 36 Ford five window kit and white whites from the recently issued parts pack. Here she is. Whattaya think?

Holy smokes. If that was a live demo and not one that was pre recorded and pre set up, that is amazing. hopefully Google is the one that buys it it would be nice to have that on Android device. Since Apple has Siri on their iJunk devices I would imagine that Google will want a competing voice search. And Bill is right, definitely have to change the voice and slow her down a bit. Almost difficult to understand at times.

I thought that one had the Riley OHV and the other had the Winfield head. Which kit had the Winfield head?

Has your source told you any details like scale? Whether it is based on the 1/24 Grand National tooling? Hopefully an all new 1/25 tool.

IIRC there is a Riley OHV banger setup in the Revell model A sedan. Either the sedan or the woody but I think the sedan. None kitted for a flatty that I know of.

A 74 maverick in American Graffitti packaging? Did they miss the whole "Where were you in 62?" premise of the whole movie? Not too bad, they only missed by a decade. Did anyone else notice the box is labelled as "1974 Ford Mavenck"

Ace, can you post up a picture of the two part putty you use? Or post Manufacturer and product numbers of the stuff you use?

Every show I go to there are guys that are asking out of this world prices for very common kits. They seem to be asking two to three times what they are actually worth. 3 tables further on you will see the same kit at another guys booth for $10. Same as everything in life, if you shop around a bit you can get a good deal. If it is a kit that you just have to have right then and there you may have to pay the premium to get it. If it is one that is going to be added to the stash and not built for a while then you can wait 2 or 3 shows and find one for a good price. I have been on both sides of that fence. I was selling at our club sale and show this past weekend and I had a guy get upset at me for selling an incomplete kit. I always try to be honest with any of the stuff that I sell so that I don't feel guilty for selling someone something that I miss represented. This particular incomplete kit had a big white sticker on the end of the box that said incomplete in big letters. I wrote on it that it was missing the chassis plate the engine and possibly more. The guy was incensed that I would sell a kit that was not complete. I didn't even bother to argue with him because that's an argument there is no way I felt that I could get my point across to him without him getting even more pissed off. We also had one guy at our show that towards the end of the day maybe the last hour or so he announced that everything he had left on his table was half the sticker price. he sold out almost everything he had on his table in 20 minutes. And there was still a fair amount of good stuff left when he announced that he was going half price. Keep going to shows you will find some good deals. If you have the ability to go to any of the NNL shows, go to one of those you will find lots of stuff that you can drool over and take home.

I was talking to the rep from C1 models at the NNL East in New Jersey this spring and they suggest a metallic blue base coat. I was told by them that of the many color tests they had done for a base coat that the metallic blue seem to give the best depth and closest realism to real chrome. If I remember correctly they had a couple of pictures of the color they used on their website.

lol no doubt about that. I am ok with her being the good looking good smelling one.I will be the big ugly strong one that can open jars and reach stuff on the top shelf.

I must be lucky. Mine has come out with me and helps me to sell at the last several model shows. seems to work fairly well as a sales tactic from my point of view. Lol.

I could bring my clippers with me if you think you can convince him. Lol

Twice as many tables for the vendors as there was at the Legion. Lots of stuff to look at. Two days away folks. See some of you there. Stop by & say hello if you see me. I will be the big dude in a red shirt with a mowhawk.