Toner283

Pretty sure that it is from a Vega kit. the T bird hoods are more flat all the way across.

put me down for #10.

I just went out into the garage and measured my real all henry steel 1929 tudor. On the body just below the fuel tank in the cowl just as it transitions from the flat hood sides to the rounded hood top it is 32 3/4 inches wide. Same place on the rad shell where it transitions from the flat hood sides to the rounded hood top it is 22 inches wide. Those measurements should be the same for coupe/roadster or tudor in 1928 and 1929. 4-door bodies were custom built by two different manufacturers and the measurements will be different at the cowl. The rad shell should be the same. 1930 & 1931 measurements are different than 1928/29. The cars got slightly wider in the 1930/31's

That one isn't the same kit. The one in question is a 53. The one with the Roth artwork is a 56. It is one of the old Revell "opening everything" kits that give a lot of people (myself included) fits of frustration trying to build a decent model out of it.

Doh. My bad, Brainfart on my part. Spex is right. Deaths Doorstep is the correct name of that coupe.

That is the Deathtrap. it looks like it may fall apart driving down the road but it is a very well engineered car. Built by a guy named Dave Lohr. AKA Littleman. Do a Google image search for Deathtrap Model A and construction photos will pop up. just be aware when you are looking there is a clone that was built a few years after the original and you have to look close to tell them apart. Littleman also built this truck. Link is to a Hot Rod Magazine online article. http://www.hotrod.com/cars/featured/hrdp-1001-1931-ford-model-a-pickup/ and yes he is the guy that was on the TV show Hard Shine, won, and turned down the job at So Cal speed shop. The Model A coupe that was pictured first in the original post, I would have to look up the article in Rod and Kulture magazine but IIRC it is a driver as well. Driven hard and often if the article is correct. I absolutely detest rat rods. I would hate for someone to look at a car like that and think "Oh thats the best car he can build" and have my name connected with a car like that. Stuff like crappy welds random junk bolted onto the car and crappy build quality intentionally overall is something I find idiotic. The guys who build them and say "this is how it was built back in the day". That is BS. show me one picture that was taken back in the forties or early fifties that shows me a hot rod with any of the tractor seat, car dropped way down so its a half an inch off the ground, chain links welded together for a steering wheel, rusty barbed wire wrapped around things, etc. I guarantee you will not find one. What I do not have an issue with is to hot rods that show some use. Stone chips and road rash are a badge of honor as far as I'm concerned. Drive 'em hard, drive 'em far. And if they break, fix 'em and drive on. I would bet that a lot of these rat rods in real world road conditions wouldnt last 50 miles without a major breakdown or mechanical failure.

I was at one of the larger hobby shops in southern ontario yesterday and I was looking at the '13 Runabout kit. I woukd like to get one and I like supporting the local stores but the '13 kit was priced at $65.99 cdn. Not a chance of me paying that much for it when I can order it from ebay for $26.99 plus ten bucks shipping. I asked about the touring and was told it would be at the same price point. The guy behind the counter told me they thought it (the '13) would be a good seller but could not understand why they still had it in stock. I did not even bother to argue with him about it being twice as much as you could buy one online shipped for. Same kind of deal with the 71 Ford truck from Moebius. I was all set to buy one but they were $43.99. I had a look around the store and that was at least $10 more than any of the other Moebius car kits they had in stock. $15 more than several of them. I am not sure if they figure they can gouge people because it is a long-awaited new release or what but that one stayed there and it did not come home with me. That was 2 sales that they lost out on because their prices were too high. Three if you count the fact that I will not get a touring there even if they get one into stock.

Why not?? Not everyone wants a V8.

Any progress on this? Looking forward to more.

No, you are right about that last part. The firewalls in the series of 1932 Ford kits are nothing like a stock deuce firewall. Revell did not even attempt to make them look like a stock deuce firewall and therein lies the point. If Revell had made the firewall in the upcoming coupe kit a flat firewall, that would have eliminated 99% of the growling about the firewall inaccuracy. Installing a flat firewall for engine clearance in a 1930/31 Model A is a very common modification in the full scale hot rod world. The fact that they tried to make it look like a factory firewall and failed miserably is the problem I have with it. As has already been pointed out on the old school 31 Ford kits from Revell the firewall is dead on. In those kits it has a full hood, allows for the thickness of the plastic and still looks right. In regards to the blower housing, that does not bother me personally too much as that is not something I will be using anyway as I am more an old school multi carb kind of guy. The roof insert I have not seen any good clear pictures of yet so I don't have much to say about it other than I don't know that I have ever seen a full size hot rod Model A with a deuce style roof insert. They are usually either fully completely filled with a sheet of steel or they still have the original soft top ( or no soft top and the original opening with wooden bows in it). Like Ace, I also work in the full size hot rod industry. In that business it is either right or you do it again. When customers are spending their hard earned money and entrusting you with thier project, it needs to be done properly before it is in the customer's hands. And you can not bill a customer for the time it takes to do the work a second time if you screw it up the first time. One of my mentors once told me something that I have found to be very true. the human eye is one of the most accurate measuring devices known. it may not be able to measure down to thousands of an inch but it can tell from several feet when something does not look or flow right. When we are building a vehicle with proportions completely different from stock (hot rod or custom), the vehicle gets rolled outside several times during the build process so that we can stand back 50 or 60 feet from the vehicle and look at it from several different angles. Individual elements of a vehicle can look great when viewed as each single element, but can look like it was put together with no eye for style, design or flow when viewed as a whole. I am in wholehearted agreement with several of the other posters in this thread when it has been said that it costs less time and money to do something right the first time than to do a job poorly and have to do it again. And that goes for anything in life. Whether it be building a full size car, a model car, or painting a fence.

Add my agreement to the above. Scale model kits should be accurately scaled. Otherwise we would be all building kits with palmer quality and scaling and everybody would be happy. I don't feel that it is at all out of line to want a kit to accurately depict the subject matter. I did not get involved with the cuda fender issue discussion because I have no first-hand knowledge of the subject matter. I did not get involved with the discussion on the body proportions on the new Moeibus Pontiac because I have no first-hand knowledge of the subject matter. I do however have first hand knowledge of Model A's. I have being playing with building and modifying Model A hot rods for more than 25 years. As soon as I viewed the picture when it was first released of the Model A test shot being held up to get its picture taken, the firewall inaccuracy reached out and poked me in the eye. Any Model A guy would be able to pick that out as soon as they looked at the picture and tell you that the firewall was wrong. To respond to the folks in this thread (and the other one) who have said it's a model kit, you can fix it. I agree that I can fix it. The point is that I shouldn't have to. if the folks at Revell had went with a flat firewall to have clearance for a small block Chevy, I would understand. That is a common modification in the full scale hot rod world. then I would bet most people would not squawk because it would be expected to have to graft in a factory firewall if you wanted one. However, they tried to make it look like a factory firewall and missed the mark terribly. That is my beef with the firewall. That they tried to make it look like a stock firewall and now not only does it not look like a factory firewall you either have to graft in a stock firewall or a flat firewall to make it look proper. Several people have said that it is only a test shot and it will probably be fixed on the release. I hope that those folks are right. But as a couple of other people have pointed out, what we see is probably what we are going to get. Time will tell whether it gets fixed or not, but at this point I hope that the firewall from the old Revell Model A kit fits well on this new release because I can see myself fixing a half a dozen bodies.

Use mine all the time. I also use them for trimming out small decals from the larger sheet (easier to see with the small blades) and for thin styrene sheet when scratchbuilding. Just take care not to drop them. The ends of the blades are very delicate and bend/break easily.

The smooth tonneau cover is in the "Trucks" issue of the 40. I wonder whether the gates were reopened for it or whether it was retooled?

The floor appears to be the bed cover from the amt 59 elcamino, the part behind the seats is the radio console from in the bed of the elcamino and the engine also appears to be from the elcamino. Judjing from the color of the styrene, it looks like the parts are from the original issue trophy series 59 elcamino.

With fenders? Without fenders? If you want help rather than guesses we need more information. Pictures would also help us help you. Where are you having fit issues? Front? Back? Left side? Right side? Like a bunch of the other folks on this board, I have built a couple of the deuce kits and they go together very well.

Old ford guys care. Model A guys care. Deuce guys care. Hot rod guys care. When it comes to model T's, model A's and Deuces, the exact year does matter a great deal to many people.

Yup. me too. Building a hot rod takes time, skill and taste. To build a rat rod you don't need any of those three attributes.

I would prefer at least that the body be right. the firewall and the top are two of the major design aspects of the body. And it is not like a 1930 model A coupe is exactly a hard car to find in order to take reference photos and measurements. As the owner of a full-scale 30 coupe, I would like this to kit to be right so that I can make a copy of my car. If that makes me a river counter, so be it. And if no one cared about correct body proportions and design aspects, we would all be building Palmer kits. Like you said, and engine is easy to change, but IMO a modeller should not have to fix glaring tooling errors in a body. especially not one that is a brand new tool.

2 or 3 different sizes of engine turned area would be awesome. A firewall and a dash need different diameter turnings.

Here is hoping that Round 2 backdates this kit and puts the original parts back in that have been deleted over the years. The bed cover and the clear canopy for sure.

AMT/Ertl put out a version of the BTTF Delorean with the train wheels and a short section of track. I have a blueprinter issue with three different BTTF cars in one box.

It is big. The rail bed base is about 2 1/2 feet long. Cool kit for sure.

I would far rather have them come out with an all new tool '35 Ford rather than another 36. The 35 is a far prettier car than the 36. Lots of people like the grille on the 36 better but the 35 grill is much more appealing IMO. So bring on a 1935 Ford coupe!

HOA's seem to be a distinctly US thing. Haven't heard of any active ones up in Canada so forgive me if these are dumb questions. How does it work if it is a regular neighborhood that you already live in and then they start an HOA? Can they force you to join and/or comply to their rules? Or can you tell them that you were there first and within reason you will do what you want on your own property and to your own property? and as far as fines go, if a police officer gives you a fine for speeding you have to pay it. But if a self appointed enforcer of an HOA gives you a fine do you have to pay it or can you tell them where to stick their fine?

Looking awesome. You are definitely doing justice to these kits and to your friends memory. Loving all of the crisp clear photos and the extreme close-ups. Thanks for taking all the time to take them and to post them up. Remember, as bad as the issues with these kits are they could be worse. The hemi hydro kit that I am working on as a sink line across the whole hull bottom and up the sides everywhere there is a rib on the inside. It took me several hours with a flat file and sanding sticks to get the whole hull smooth. it looks like you got a much better issue than the one I got. One hint for a source for a battery, The Phantom Vicky has a battery in a case like a marine battery would use. I may have an extra one here if you were interested in it. I know you have not gotten that far yet but you will probably want to replace the wheels and tires on the trailer as well. They are also fairly horrible and easier to replace than to try and fix.