Toner283

That is how Tommy Ivo's twin nailhead rail was set up IIRC. Reverse running V8 engines are not uncommon. Most twin engined marine applications have one engine running in reverse. Different cam and a starter to spin it over backwards are the two biggest differences.

There are some more pictures of the dealership with members cars displayed on it at this link. http://www.group25.org/showgr25page3.htm It has been used at our annual contest to display club members cars, trucks etc the last couple of years. I did not see it mentioned earlier but the signage on the dealership is all easily changeable so that it can become whatever dealer or make that we want or need it to be. I think that is a pretty cool way for the club members to display our work all together. And yes as stated this thing is huge. It usually takes two vehicles to move all of the parts and pieces.

Did you make those taillights or did you buy them in resin? and did you make the nose to match? I think a matching pair of Beaumont convertible & hardtop cars would look great sitting beside a pair of convertible & hardtop Chevelles. Either way need to see more of that car. Preferably a front three quarter shot.

For the replicas and miniatures of Maryland ones, I usually scrub the small parts with an old toothbrush and some Comet cleanser. this cleans off the mold release and gives the paint a "tooth" to bite on to. I use Tamiya paints on them and have not had any issues. For the cap I have used black ones and just left them in black resin color. To me they look like the black plastic caps that most of the cars had. When using resin you have to attach the parts with super glue or 5 min epoxy. Regular hobby glues will not work on resin. working with smaller parts like this will get you an introduction to working with resin and leave you ready to step up to some bigger parts and pieces. be warned, resin is addictive because of the wide variety of stuff available that either was never in a kit or has been out of production for so long as to be impossible to find.

There are also several detail up parts for those accurate miniatures Corvette kit. There is a separate oil cooler and lines to replace the molded in one available (Replicas and miniatures of Maryland maybe?). There is a photo etch detail up set that I believe is made by the model car garage as well. the model car garage also makes a resin four speed transmission with a shift linkage and shifter out of photoetch. One of the nicest small block Chevy's ever tooled in those kits. Lots of neat parts to super detail those Grand Sport Corvettes depending on how crazy you want to get.

Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland ones are really nice. Pre drilled caps with seperate base and IIRC an option for a vaccuum advance cannister as well. I know he offers 6 and 8 cylinder ones and also the later ford flathead "crab" style ones. Not sure about 4 cylinder ones though. Sold in packs of three.

Cool looking truck. The slanted tailgate gives it a going fast sitting still type of look. Looking forward to more progress. One thing about the wheels and tires. The name of the kit and the car is Rat Roaster not roadster. The rat in the name of the car is not in reference to rat rod it is in reference to "rat motor" as in big block Chevy. Roaster referring to roasting the competition even if they bring a big block Chevy since the rat roaster is powered by a blown small block Chevy (aka a "mouse" motor).

As stated earlier, the AMT 69 Cutlass W-30 kit chassis and running gear fits well under either the hardtop or the convertible bodies. Added bonus is that it is an easy kit to find and can usually be had for around $10. In full scale the frames would have been virtually identical across all of the mid sized GM musclecars. i.e. Chevelle, Cutlass, GTO, Skylark, GTX, Lemans, Tempest, etc from 68-72. I have also been playing with the chassis from the Revell 72 olds cutlass kit. It needs a few modifications at the front and rear to fit nicely but after a bit of trimming it seems to play well with the Chevelle body & interior. I havent gotten any farther than mock up yet though. In addition to the chassis, the Cutlass supreme kit(not the Hurst/Olds issue) also has a convertible up top that fits the Chevelle. the Hurst/Olds kit does not have the up top in it. Both the Hurst/Olds and the Cutlass Supreme have a seperate TH400 auto trans or muncie 4 speed. The TH400 would be correct for an automatic transmission behind a big block. For a well detailed big block I use the one out of the Revell 65 Chevelle Z16 kit. With some paint detailing and a bit of wiring this is a very realistic looking engine. Far better than the lump of plastic that comes in the 69 Chevelle kit. If you were to choose the automatic transmission then the AMT 68 El Camino kit has the correct automatic transmission console with the "horseshoe" shifter. That console should be correct for either 68 or 69 Chevelle. If you were wanting to build a 68 hardtop or convertible then the Modelhaus makes a conversion kit. The grill, the tail lights and the dash are the main differences. some of the trim and marker lights also need to be changed to build a correct 68 or 69. The trim on the bodies are currently kind of a mixture of the two years. Hopefully some helpful information.

X2

1969 Chevelle 2 door hardtop and another vote for a 1980 Malibu 2 door.

A little more food for thought as far as Tucker derivatives and kit spin-offs. Random pictures copied from free domain on the internet. If you drew them speak up to be recognized. A slick looking two door sedan. Could also be done up as a 2 door hardtop would probably look slick as well. A sleeker 'vert with a Duval style windshield. And last a couple of variations of a woody wagon. Or also could be done as a regular wagon. Not entirely sure how well this would work with a rear engine configuration but what the heck, it looks cool. Lots of pretty cool ideas that could be run with. someone a lot more talented than me could probably draw up an El Camino styled Tucker as well.

I didn't notice that until you pointed it out but you are right. It is way off too. Here is a good pic of a model A coupe with the top insert material not installed. Notice that it is squared off at the front two corners and it goes all the way forward to the sunvisor. Here is a good pic of a 30/31 firewall with no engine in the way to block it. Notice how wide and tall it is compared to the cowl sides and top. And how it does not have the space all the way around that the test shot pictured has. To my eye the center two angled character lines are also notably on the wrong angle. I don't want this thread to turn into another thread like the 57 Ford wagon thread, but I also want the model A to be as close to right as possible. In my opinion the issues are not just camera distortion. The firewall and the roof insert are incorrect and should be fixed. If the powers that be at Revell actually do read some of these threads and can see that there are issues with the tooling and will take steps to remedy them before the final tooling is completed. Model A's are one of my favorite vehicles and it would be nice to see them and get it right. And here is another pic just for inspiration.

I count myself lucky to have Jeff Norwell as a personal friend. Here is a picture of the coupe that I had him draw for my dad for Christmas a couple of years back.

I have been looking forward to a new tool 30/31 Model A five window coupe kit for a long time. I have built several of the old Monogram one but it has its own issues. Mostly that the body line and beltline reveal missed the mark by a mile. Also with it being 1/24th scale it looks fairly big beside most of the 1/25th stuff out there. As someone else stated above. I also wish it was not chopped. Leaving us the option to chop it a little or a lot or not at all. As far as it having a small block Chevy, meh. I have a stock of parts pack Cadillac engines, 50 olds engines, a couple of the engine out of the beatnik bandit (early caddy IIRC) and some early Hemis that I can use for this kit. Plus I bet that the nailhead from the 29 roadster will drop right in. I am curious as to what interior or interiors that Revell chose to put in it. Hopefully a couple of buckets and an option for a bench with tuck and roll. There it is something funky going on with the cowl and the firewall. I hope that it is just camera lens distortion or photo angle because in the two pictures in the first post, the cowl to firewall fit is way off. If it is not the camera playing tricks then I hope that was an early test shot that has been rectified. The curved part of the firewall should go almost all the way out to the edge of the cowl all the way around. I have somewhere in the neighborhood of 1000 hours of metal work into bringing a 30 coupe back to life. I have had the firewall in and out of that car more times than I want to remember. In that close up picture of the test shot the character reveals on the firewall do not look right to my eye either. Whatever the case, it is only plastic and I will fix it if I have to. I also want to see the rear wheel wells and see if they got the character lines in that area correct. I hope that in the next kit in the series is a 28/29 Tudor sedan. We need a new tool one of those. The ancient AMT 28 sedan kt is very expensive and sometimes hard to find. My dad has a 30 coupe that he and I built and I have a 29 tudor that I am working on. For anyone that might be interested here is a link to the build thread on the coupe on the HAMB. Lots of close up detail pics of the car as we were putting it together. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-a-build-thread.348159/

The stock rad shell in the pic in the first post is a 1930 shell, not a 28/29.

Add another vote for Scenes Unlimited. Danny's stuff is awesome. He makes a bumper hitch with 2 different dropped receivers and also a reese style chassis hitch with 2 different recievers as well. Both of them look very accurate and true to the real deal. Reasonably priced and Danny is great to deal with. He also makes the best fifth wheel hitch I have seen. Lots of other cool detail parts as well. http://www.scenesunltd.com/

What does the $19.95 get you? The ability to go into the uhaul parking lot and look at the truck???

The revell snapper 57 Chevy belair has a set similar to the ones on that wagon.

How long has it been since you had the fuel filter changed? I have had a few almost totally plugged. Changed the filter and it was like a brand new truck. In my experience, electric fuel pumps usually either work or they don't. There isn't really an in between.

if they reissue it hopefully they reissue it with the up top included in the kit. the Cutlass Supreme custom kit is getting hard to find. the only real differences that I found between the two kits are the up top and the hood.

Sounds like it worked

Best answer as to what will fit is to call and talk to Don. The man is an encyclopedia of what parts came in what kit and what will fit into/onto/around/under whatever else. And is a heck of a nice guy too. Carol is no slouch with the part ID and fit either. Have a list of the questions you have ready so you don't forget anything and with wheels or tires, having measurements ready will help get you the answer to what you need or what will fit.

Almost the same method I use. I also put the parts or parts sprue with the parts still attached (like the revell engine parts paks) into a large ziploc freezer bag, spray the Easy Off into the bag so enough is in there to give a good coating on the parts to be stripped, squeeze out as much air as possible and then seal the bag. This keeps the easy off juicy and working well. For some of the tough to strip stuff it might be in the bag for up to a week. It also allows me to agitate the bag to help strip the paint or plating. I also sometimes place the bag near the furnace register to allow a *little bit* of heat to help the process. (I find it helps anyway). Please note that I have no small children or pets to get into the bag of toxic goo. Other than that, I use the same steps as Ace. This method has worked well for me for several years.

That one is listed for about twice what it should be price wise. There are two on ebay right now for $29.99 which is still spendy for that kit IMO. Should be about $20-$25 at most, it's not exactly a rare kit. I am on my phone right now so I cannot see where you are from but if you were headed to NNL East in a couple of weeks I would bet that you could find one there. Maybe even just the camper for a few dollars if you were lucky.

The 59 Camino is one of my favorite kits as well. I also have a fullsize 59 Elcamino in my garage so that helps too. Building several different versions of the kit as a kid is a big part of why I have one in the garage. As Dan posted, the 65 Elcamino with the drag camino for the main art on the box lid has the same up and over the roof camper as the old 59 Elcamino camper kit as well as the cap that has been in most if not all of the issues of the kit. I have an unbuilt camper kit and the two campers are identical. It is just a shell with no interior detail at all and no opening windows or doors. The one I have has very little flash on it and fits together fairly well. It actually fits on/in the 59 better than it fits the 65 IMO. The drag camino reissue should be fairly easy to find. It has the retro style box art that is a near copy of an older issue of the 65 camino kit. Make sure you get a reissue to be sure to get the camper though, I do not know if the earlier issue of the 65 drag camino has the camper in it or not.