6bblbird

Lots of "mud" !

Isn't there another hoop that is still to be installed? That would offer protection to the belts. Being an NHRA tech inspector, I get anal about safety equipment, even in scale! WF

Big thumbs up! I would like to see that truck with Torque Thrusts. WF

Body was stretched while the Polar Lights chassis had to be shortened!

Fenders were easy , this part, I don't know.

What to do with two Gremlin bodies and a lot of putty! I added a little over a scale foot to the nose using sections from a donor body.

So, you can't crank the windows unless you open the doors. Only a problem when you try to get your time slip! lol Very cool model! Inner door panels look great and the rusty roof looks perfect!

Really looks like a fun project! Love the use of color, strange color combos but it somehow works on this car. P.S. Regarding the shoulder belts. Think of what would happen if the car flipped on to it's cage!

I think that he meant the color being "different" as most builders tend to leave them chromed. You have the correct valve covers for the early Hemi that you are building. I have seen these valve covers painted every color of the rainbow. Yours look real good. One tip. If you look at photos of hemi engines, you will notice that the spark plug boots almost never extend very much above the top of the spark plug tube. If you trim your boots even with the top of the cover, they would look more realistic, although with the black covers they might not be noticed.

I love the paint!!

Good job on the foil. I've found it near impossible to do large surfaces in foil without getting wrinkles. Even after you think you have them all out they somehow resurface. I gave up on the foil once I discovered Testors metallizer buffing aluminum.

I too like the '64. Reminds me of the first real race car that I drove. It was a '63 Max wedge car, push button torqueflite with a reverse pattern valve body. The owner forgot to tell me about the reverse pattern! Almost scattered that thing when I hit "third"!! I have a Johan '63 kit to build that car someday! It's been at least 20 years since I got that kit!

I have a suspicion that you are a nostalgia fan. Great cars! How about showing them one at a time! Would love to see more pics. WF

I am currently looking at doing the same thing! I have the GTX convertibile kit and a few '68 road runners. I thought of cutting off the roof on one of the road runners but I might have to replace the deck filler panel in front of the trunk. Might be easier just to remove the moldings and emblems from the GTX body. The GTX seats would work but the rear interior panels from the GTX don't match the road runner's door panels. You would have to modify them. The dash is the same in both kits but it is for a '68. The '69 road runner grille might be a problem as the GTX and runner a noticeably different. A Johan '69 road runner grille will work (with slight trimming of the fenders) but you have to find one. Tail lights are slightly different between a GTX and a road runner but most people won't notice. Down the road, I may try to convert a Johan Road runner into a convertible as the Johan body is far superior to the AMT version.

In '69 the p.c.v. was on the passenger side valve cover. The breather and oil cap were one and the same and it was located on the driver's side cover. I just checked my Monogram/Revell kit and the valve covers in the kit are incorrect! Since the chrome is also incorrect for a factory A-12 car, you can strip them and make them correct.

Chrysler changed the location and type of breathers and pcv valves from year to year. Model instructions are usually not accurate when it comes to these details. Snake's info is good regarding photo research ......but what happens in this case? Both are supposed to be '69 Dodges! More research required! The one on the right is correct. Notice the hood hinges and air cleaner on the left photo (this is an owner installed six pack). The pic on the right shows hood pins at the rear. This is a factory A 12 car and is correct for the '69 Super Bee. WF

I hate brush marks and globby finishes no matter what size the parts so I tend to spray everything. I will often drill a small hole in the part ( on the glue side) and use toothpicks in the hole to hold the part while spraying. WF

Huge round of applause for that one!!

I agree, having seen it done a number of different ways. The factory (Amblewagon) built cars had the front rails replaced with box tubing and the cars used a lightweight, stainless steel K member. Using the stock K member enabled the builder to more easily use the stock steering box and steering linkage. Steve Magnante's Dart is a good example of an awb with fabricated frame rails and a relocated. stock, K member.

The first mention of "cheater slicks" applying to stock class cars appeared in the 1961 NHRA rule book. They were allowed but could not exceed the width of a tire " one size larger than the originally equipped tire". In '62 your allowed tire width was dependent on the o.e.m. wheel width with no tire to exceed 7". It was 1966 when NHRA removed all references to o.e.m. tire widths and tread type and allowed 7" "cheater slicks" across the board. WF P.S. The NHRA rule books are listed in this section

If you would like to see pics of the A-12 restoration, go here: http://public.fotki.com/announcerguy/road-runner-restoration/ Yes, I had to massage the tail lights before applying the decals. I don't recall the pie tin decal being on the sheet, but then again, my memory is not so hot. I do know that I always seem to have problems getting pie tin decals to lay down and not wrinkle. You have just reminded me to look for that car's air cleaner!

Probably Butternut Yellow, Ditzler #87500. Don't ask me how I know that! lol

Me too! I thought to myself " Now this looks like a real car!" That is a winner!!

Great group of cars there! My favorite is the Mustang, WF

Mine is Sunfire Yellow, Snake's is.......?