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martinfan5

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Everything posted by martinfan5

  1. Lets us know how it works.
  2. Jim, you should be able to with out any issues.
  3. Steve, I really wasnt trying to convince you that you should use Tamiya, I really don't care what you or anyone else uses to build their models, I just don't have that kind of time ( not said in a mean way what so ever ) I understand why you use what you use, and for me, I have to stick with the more plastic safe primes like Tamiya because I mostly build Japanese kits that can not handle the hotter automotive primers unless they are the two stage type. You keep using what works for you , no reason to change what it inst broke right ? Are you ready for this Steve?, we are going to agree on something for the second time in 2019, I dont like Tamiya's nozzles either, they are very hard to do light coats as they spit when you press the down, no matter how lightly you press.
  4. Loaded questions and you are going to get a lot of different answers , and there is no wrong way you listed, there are just some variables that need to be sorted first. First, it all depends on the paint you used, if the paint you used is a single stage paint and is already smooth and somewhat glossy, then you can apply the decals directly to the paint, if the paint is not very smooth or glossy, you may need to clear coat as decals need a smooth surface , or you will get silvering and they may not stick very well, even when using setting solutions. Now, clear coating over the decals , it depends on the type of decal paper/type of printing of the decals, and then it depends if you want to be accurate. If you are using ALPS typed printed decals, it really is a good idea to clear over them, ALPS decals are not durable, and even basic handling can rub them off , just ask me how I know . Now, in the modern era 90's forward , the only time NASCAR teams cleared over the decals was for the plate races, the other times, they did not clear over decals. But clearing over the decals helps protect them, that is up to you, and there really isnt a right or wrong way there in my opinion.
  5. Sure, but then you use that 40% off coupon and its like $7 a can, I just restocked my supply for $8.99 per can( $2.99 ship) , which is a very good deal for Tamiya Fine Primer, just gotta shop around wink wink. For primers, its one of the best hobby primers, I have no doubts there are better primers once you get outside of the hobby world, and if you are using or use to using auto primers, I can understand why you may not think its very good. Just as an FYI, Tamiya has two kinds, the normal primer and the fine, in my opinion the fine is far better than the normal primer.
  6. Nice work so far
  7. Of course Joe, as I am only speaking of the results that I get, but I am interested in trying the ELO you posted about , If there is a better way, and even faster way, I am all for it.
  8. This is the general rule of thumb that I use too, minus Easy Off.
  9. Ive had Super Clean strip stuff in 20 minutes too with little effort on my part, so it just all comes down to what you are trying to strip. But if you like using that ELO, then by all means , keep using it, and I will use what I know works for me. But as much as I strip stuff, its more economical for me to use Super Clean. But, I am interested in doing a head to head challenge for my Youtube channel with Super Clean and ELO from Testors to see if it is really better than Super Clean and to see if it can remove all the different types of paints .
  10. This is pretty much a fact right here, you want to get the purple bottle/jug, not the white, the white is the generic knock off and is not as strong and doenst work as good or as fast. Its only a few dollars more to get the Super Clean, its well worth that extra few bucks.
  11. Couple of things here Super Clean will remove Tamiya primer, you may have to use your elbow some and scrub, but it will come off, now, Ive found that its just easier once you get down to the primer, to use the 91% alcohol and it will just literately wipe it off with little effort. It really depends on a few things , the type of paint that you use over it seems to make it easier/harder to strip is what Ive found out in my 100s of times stripping my builds. Second, I find it odd that you avoid one the best primers to use in the hobby because it might be difficult to strip, to each their I own I suppose on that one.
  12. Something you dont see everyday, well done.
  13. Hasegawa has a similar product , I have a sheet on the way to try out.
  14. Again, I am going to highly recommend Hr Hobby Thinners, good luck to you.
  15. I HIGHLY recommend Mr Hobby Thinners, both the normal and leveling thinner, but I am going to agree with Peter about using Humbrol's own thinner, its best to stay within the family.
  16. Nice work
  17. I usually wait about 5 minutes , basically, I clean my airbrush then I come back and remove the tape, and really, if you are air brushing your paint on and not doing full on wet coats, you can remove pretty quickly after you are done. You DO NOT want to wait the paint has cured( even that first stage of curing), you risk pulling up/chipping the paint. You really done want to leave the tape on any longer then need be, more so on fresher paint, if left on too long, the paint/clear will start to adsorb the sticky from the tape
  18. Decent work so far, nice color choice for the body.
  19. You are not done with this one yet Ben? , nah seriously though, that is very nice work on the interior.
  20. Looking forward to seeing this one, I was all about getting this one, but at about $130 for the set, was just a bit much for you get, HD has really raised their prices to the stupid level, which sucks, as they are doing a lot of cool stuff that I would love to get.
  21. I should of just stopped at the clear coat , the decal solution I started off using was melting the decals, so I switched, and its just gone down hill, now I to decided which car number I am with. Chassis is completed, and I dont know how, it must be because I am such an amazing builder, but I ended up with a tripod stance on the chassis, like WTF, sigh And I got a tire decal coming off, even after being dullcoated.
  22. Thank you guys Some more progress Body clear coated, it will will get some post clear love as I got impatient and have some spots that need to be wet sanded.
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