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mrm

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Everything posted by mrm

  1. Looking nice. How much are the bodies going for? I can’t find contact info. Phone, site, e-mail? There are few items I would like to get.
  2. I’m with you on this being the best kit in years. Unfortunately I failed to stock up on them and sure regret it.
  3. The subject is not my cup of tea, but the skills are undeniable, no matter the theme of the model. Great job on the paint, looks very sharp and clean. Impressive undercarriage. Not overdone and simply fantastic.
  4. I am the other way around. Unfortunately this year I did not do a single show. As a matter of fact, I have not built anything since last year’s Hearthland.
  5. My understanding is that you have to pretty much replace most of the parts in the kit, in order to represent the real car faithfully. I am in the process of building the Pink Panther from the same series. What a dog of a kit it is!!!! Oh....let me rephrase that. The Pink Panther is one of my many stalled projects.
  6. By "solid info" I meant official announcements. I am still kicking myself for not stocking up on the '30s, when they were available in Hobby Lobby.
  7. Sorry if this has been discussed already, but is there any news about the '29 Roadster and '30 Coupe from Revell? Are they reissuing them? Did they salvage the molds? What's the story? I heard that the Roadster is supposed to come back out, but just rumors. Anyone has any solid info?
  8. While the clear is drying I added some photoetched bolt detail to the drivetrain.
  9. Very nice progress. What color are you planning to make it? I have the McQueen blue NART Spider and Clint Eastwood's green Berlinetta in my collection.
  10. Thank you Mattias. So about the colors, I ran in some unexpected delay. Everything was primed with Tamiya primer. The lighter base color was Tamiya Copper, sprayed through my airbrush after decanting from the spray can without reducing it. The darker base color was Tamiya metallic black, applied the same way. The mid coat is Cinnamon candy pearl from PPG applied over everything. The dark parts got almost rock hard in no time, while the parts with copper on them took for ever to cure. I had to redo it once, because after more than 48 hours curing time, when I tried to mask the light part to spray the top half, the masking tape was not lifting the candy, but scoring the finish with its edges. I have no clue why this was happening, since it is the same paint manufacturer with the same primer with the same top coat, all shot the exact same way. Anyway.....After sanding and redoing the body I left it for quite some time to dry and I think it is ready for some clear coat. Final mock up. to make sure everything fits fine, before getting clear coated.
  11. mrm

    Sweet Victoria

    Thank you Oliver. I w ant to use the big block Roush Ford from the Foose kit, but it is not going to be easy to shoehorn t between the front hoods. This is why they were stretched a little. On the engine I had to cut the belt part from the alternator and power steering pulleys, modify their brackets and bring them more "inboard". Otherwise they did no fit within the side hoods. On the back end of the engine was mated the manual transmission from the Phantom Vicky. This allows me to bring the engine another couple mm back in order to fit within the hoods and also for everything to fit under the floor that comes with the Vicky kit. Square plastic rod has been fitted and left long to mock up engine mounts. When mocking things up, I noticed two things. First, if I use the wheel/tire combo I like, the frame is going higher from the ground than I like. Second the engine oil pan (which also came from the Vicky) is hanging bellow the frame quite a bit, which looks weird to me from the side. The exhaust manifolds are hanging even lower. It almost looks like the frame is disappearing into the body too much. My solution is to actually modify the frame rails, by simply extending their bottom edge, for a complete custom look. While the frame rails glue is curing, I filled the dash for a smooth look This is the steering wheel and dash insert I chose for my Sweet Victoria. She gonna be pretty with lots of bling. Stay tuned and thanks for looking
  12. Yeah....I would like to see this finished too.
  13. mrm

    Sweet Victoria

    Tom and Alan, thank you both. First thing to do was to sand the inside of the body, so the rear inner fenders from the Phantom Vicky fit. I superglued them in a way to correspond with the Vicky frame. Now the tabs fit perfectly into the frame. Next he bottom of the rear was extended The side hoods from the original Revell '32 Roadster were extended, glued both to the body and to the grille and then modified on the bottom to fit flush over the frame. The story with the top hood was not as simple. Because the hoods were extended, the top hood no longer followed the side ones. So I had to pie-cut it in the middle, glue it and then extend it. Now the body fits like I want it over the frame all around. Altho everything lines up pretty well, not all curvatures match. So everything was put together and then puttied as one. Stay tuned and thanks for looking.
  14. Take the crab distributor from the flathead in Revell's '32 Tudor Sedan and glue it on top of the regular distributor from the same kit. You will have to take off a little off the bottom of the flat head crab distributor and a little off the top of the regular one, but you should end up with a pretty close copy of what is in the picture.
  15. So, before I started my Family Deuce project, I needed some sort of startup project to get me into building again. The original idea was to build a fenderless Vicky in very modern style, without going crazy with it. I wasn't sure if I had a Vicky body and looked in the boxes I had put away. That's how I found the Four Door body for the Family Deuce. I didn't find a Vicky body, but I ordered one from JF. I received it the other day and got on it, as that was my original plan before the Family Deuce project. The chassis is going to be mostly AMT's Phantom Vicky, possibly with a different rear end. The frame horns have been cut off. The body has been slightly channeled on the front, which dropped the grille lower. The side hoods are from the Revel's '32 Roadster, with the top hood from the Phantom Vicky. The door panels would have to be highly modified or scratch build. The floor and seats would most likely stay from the AMT kit also. The dash will come from Revell's '32 Five Window. The engine will be the big block Ford from the Foose F100, but with the manual transmission from the Vicky kit. There is a good chance the rear end to come from the Foose kit also. That is if I don't go with the IRS from the Foose Caddy. Wheels and tires are not decided yet, but the ones on the picture are have a very good chance staying with the project. Stay tuned and thanks for watching.
  16. Could you post a link, because I don’t find anything.
  17. Great work so far. Totally my type of build. So many great ideas on the chassis. The stance is killer. Can't wait to see this finished.
  18. John, Mike, Claude and Oliver, thank you all. Weekends are for family, so not much to show. Just a quick mock up, while paint is curing, so it can be cleared.
  19. I am currently building one with a body from Star Cast (maybe, not sure if that's the name of the company), but I would love to try one of these bodies. I had a dilemma whether to build my Family Deuce fendered or fenderless. I also had a different, more aggressive color scheme in mind. Maybe I can get one of these bodies and make a "Naughty Family Deuce" with no fenders.
  20. Thank you guys. I had quite a bit done yesterday and today. It's 3am and my back and eyes are killing me, so I punched out. The hoods were completed and hinges made for the top hood. Tested some colors..... Base coat for most of the car is Tamiya Metallic Black (TS). The interior got 100%done. The dash was fun. ......and so was the steering. But my favorite were the door panels. Very simple with door handles, window switches and my "saddlebags”. And the completed interior. The "carpet" looks very different in person. I always loved those German square weave carpets in high end rods. The Rustoleum Multicolor Textured spray for outdoor furniture mimics the look perfectly. $5 gets you a lifetime supply of easy spray-on carpet. Unless of course you make all your models with the same color carpet. LOL The brown for the interior is another Walmart special. It's Satin Boots Brown. Extra large spray can is $5 and it works like a charm. I spray it into little drinking cup and straight through my airbrush, without reducing it. Goves a very nice leather like finish. All the photo etch is Model Car garage. I also started building a Detail Master distributor. What a PITA. Not worth the tedious work IMHO. Next time I'm sticking to my usual Parts by Parks. I put it on the engine and started running the wires through looms and then spark plug boots and attaching them. One side is done and so am I for tonight. I will finish it tomorrow. Oh, I painted the mid coat on the fender/chassis and also the accent color on hte body and hoods. They are drying now so no pics. Tomorrow night if body is cured I will mask it and paint the rest. Stay tuned.
  21. I have to admit, that from all the Foose kits, this car is by far my least favorite. And I AM a Foose fan. You are doing a great job with the kit. Can’t wait to see the end result. You should take pictures of the body color under sunlight. I bet that green will pop!
  22. I stand corrected. You are absolutely right about Berger. I am pretty sure however that the car I sat in was this B188. It was either 1990 or ‘91 when it happened. I used to have a photo somewhere, which is long gone probably.
  23. Beautiful and famous car. Gerhard Berger used to pilot it. I was lucky enough to actually sit in it as teenager, at the Geneva Auto Salon back in the early '90s. Paint looks excellent. Would love to see it finished.
  24. And here is my idea at work. I think it's perfect. It looks very subtle, in scale and realistic, no matter which hood option is chosen. And it's functional. Now I just need to make the hinge for the top hood and everything is heading to the spray booth.
  25. Thank you Sam. I always wanted my street rods to have removable side hoods that are staying securely into place. Have tried various solutions in the past and I am trying yet a new one. I like three piece hoods with no center rib on the top one. This eliminates the need of a center spreader bar, running from the radiator to the firewall. But modern street rods with three piece hoods have two bars like that running next to the top edge of the side hoods. What I am doing is that I am going to use the smallest "U" shaped brass rod for those two spreaders. And then I glued upside down pieces on the inside of the hoods. Now when everything is done, the side hoods should be able to be securely hung.
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