1320wayne

The only build that I have resembling a showrod. It's my take on the beer wagon with a twist.

Thanks for all of the compliments. The Pro Mod is actually a replica contract build of the real car done for the owner. It took almost two years to complete mainly due to not being home that much. The Little Red Wagon was a rebuild so it went quick and a few of the Nascar builds are strictly curbsides so they didn't take as long as others.

Back in the beginning of 2013 my career changed to driving a semi over the road and my model building time pretty much came to a stop. Yeah, I was able to tinker with builds a little bit here and there but since that time leading up to 2017 I think I managed to complete 1 or 2 builds. Fast forward to June of this year and I have been off the road and back home and finding much more time to get back to the bench. In the past six months I have been able to tear into quite a few new and older started builds and get them completed. Here's what I have been able to complete this year.

I'm pretty sure that they are not Alps printed decals. If I had to guess it's some kind of laser printing. If you run your fingers across the decal on an uncut sheet you can feel the relief, or texture if you will, of the printed material. They apply very well, whatever the printing technique is.

I understand what you're saying but the rules in the 1:1 world won't always translate into the 1/25 modeling world. First of all 4 inches in 25th scale is hardly noticeable. And, a lot of the kits that we have access to, if built straight out of the box, almost look like off roading is in order. As has been said, it's all a matter of what the builder wants for a final look, without going to extremes, of course. And for example, here are two recent builds using the same kit. The top one I altered the ride height but not so much. It looks good, in my opinion. The second one I went a little bit farther in altering the ride height and even though the front splitter is almost touching the ground I think the look is that much better.

Yes, I painted the body blue to more closely match the primary color on the panels, in case there were any significant gaps and I could conceal them. On this particular sheet I did have to touch up a few areas due to the Pattos decals not being a good fit in certain areas. Primarily the roof decals on Pattos sheets don't even come close to fitting. On this scheme I had to add a bit of blue on the leading edge of the roof using a close to match color along with a black Sharpie to add in the missing lines. If you look closely at the pic below you will see what I am talking about. The same was true for the rear of the roof along with the trunk decal. If you look closely at the next pic. you will see where I added some red and black areas by hand to hide the missing decal. Once it's all done it blended in pretty good and doesn't show unless you know what to look for.

Looks good.

Very cool work. Excellent detail.

All that I did was to Google cut and fold video games and many images came up that can be saved and printed. Once saved just follow the instructions that I listed above.

Thanks Jim. If you plan on doing this scheme sometime my word of advise would be to do what I did on the second try. Because these decals are printed in larger panels I found it easier to apply them if I broke down sections into smaller components. I did the front section in at least four sections, the rear in two, the side panels I cut the section that wraps over the window openings into at least three sections, etc. It made it much easier to get everything in place without any mistakes.

Not sure about any of the new glue kits as I haven't built one yet. But, as far as the snap kits go there are a couple of relatively simple tricks to do. One way to lower the front is to drill new axle holes above the existing ones. That will drop the front end down significantly. Another way is to lower the entire chassis by cutting away some of the screw mounts on the inside of the body. When you go to secure the screws it will draw the chassis farther up into the body. If you go this route then you may also have to sand/grind some of the leading edge of the dash as lowering the chassis will raise the dash up into the windshield area more. One other tip on the snap kits is to grind off a small portion of the axles, both front and rear. They are too long and the finished product has the tires sticking out too far.

Don't know if anyone has ever stumbled across items like this. These are just a small sample of cut and fold video games that I found online. I think so far I have come across around 30 to 40 video game and pinball machine images. I save them and then export them into a Word document and resize them to 1/25 scale. I then can print them off onto card stock paper for better stability and put them together. They are rather simple but still look cool. I have plans to make some styrene units, mold them up for casting and then print the images onto decal film so that I can create a more three demensional piece. Oh, and I added a parts box steering wheel to the Pole Position game for more realism.

Lots of work went into this one. Great job. The look is spot on.

Looks great. Sits right.

Looks good.

This is another recent build of Jimmie Johnson's 2016 Superman paint scheme. Again, I used a Revell snap kit with decals from Pattos Place. The same changes were done as was done on the Harvick build that I posted. Lowered the ride height, kicked out the side skirt, opened the exhaust openings, added the shark fin and a few added details done in the interior. These decals were definitely a challenge to work out. So much so that I had to purchase a second set after messing up the first ones. Once I made the first mistakes the second attempt went off with less hassles. Pattos decals are not foe everyone but do go on very nicely if you know how to work with them, especially a paint scheme like this where everything is decal.

Looks good.

This is my latest completed build. Using the Revell snap kit and a set of decals from Pattos Place I was able to build Harvick's Busch Hunting scheme from the 2016 Charlotte Chase race. I added the front splitter, lowered the ride height, added the shark fin, extra tire and wheel details and made my own safety net. I also kicked out the drivers side lower skirt.

Thanks for all of the responses. Bill, I did make the side mural along with the Johnny Lightning decal. Everything else is either kit based decals or parts box decal items. I actually have a complete decal layout for this version but I am limited to what I can do in regards to printing because I'm using a simple inkjet printer and can't print white. For these I had to print onto clear decal film and then use a blank sheet of white film to cut out underlayments.

Over the past few months I've been concentrating on finishing up numerous started builds that didn't need much work to complete. Here is the next one. Little Red Wagon from the later years. Center drive, larger rear slicks, blower motor and some added homemade graphics to finish off the look. I also removed the windshield center post along with the tops of the doors like the real truck was set up. It's not 100% accurate but it still came out allright, I think.

Never a problem. Just purchased two sets of decals. Received them in two days.

Bodywork looks great. Can't wait to see more.

No problem. I was just curious that you even received the email. Thanks. Hopefully there will be plenty more to add to it as I have quite a few of your decals to be used one day.

Alan I sent you an email a couple of months back with photos of my completed Telstar build in hopes that you would add it to your gallery. So far I haven't seen it listed. Did you receive the email?

Here are the completed pics. of a contract build that I've been working on for about a year and a half. This is a build for Jon Stouffer and his 71 Pro Mod Cuda. Started with kitbashing a WJ Superman Firebird chassis with added scratchbuilt chassis and suspension components. The body is a resin piece that I created specifically for this build. Lots of resin, scratchbuilding, added detail for electronics, fuel lines/plumbing, etc. The build was done to replicate the real car as close as possible. Even down to the carbon fiber billboards on the sides.