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Everything posted by bisc63
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'58 Fairlane 500 Semi-Custom! Finished at Last!
bisc63 replied to John Goschke's topic in WIP: Model Cars
That front bumper is a natural; good call! Have you considered scribing the main bumper away from the lower part and painting the bottom body color, as if it were a separate panel? Just spit-ballin' here. It would be hard for me to not use '60 T-bird tail lights in those oval recesses out back! That being said, I see exactly why you went with those custom pieces; VERY clean design. Color decided yet? Can't wait to see more! -
X-1B
bisc63 replied to Lizz62's topic in WIP: All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures
Depressing reading...alot of lost info. -
Small brain-fart on my part, the wheelbase did grow in that generation, but only by 3 inches, so only about 1/8 inch slice to shorten.
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Don't forget the AMT '60 Starliner as a possible donor - a very nice chassis, and the Fords didn't change much thru those years. Most people would never blink at the differences/lack of differences.
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Old Ironsides
bisc63 replied to gascansam's topic in WIP: All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures
Looks like a real challenge! Really anxious to see this one; love those ships. -
Fantastic work, can't wait to see more!
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SMMOOOOOOOOOOTH! What is that color? On my monitor, it has a dark eggplant purple cast to it. Lizz62, thanks for that pic; I have never seen that kit! Inspiring stuff.
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That front suspension is beautiful work, and will paint up nicely! That Revell SnapTite Chevelle is a really nice kit, and is arguably the most accurate '70 Chevelle body we have to work with. It wouldn't take alot to open up the hood and use over a full detail chassis. It gets points in my book for being in God's Favorite Scale ; 1/25. Still, there's something satisfying about beating the old AMT body into shape. Will be watching...
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resin Cosma Ray by Greg Wann
bisc63 replied to vintageslotcars's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
Good luck with ALL those things, man! -
X-1B
bisc63 replied to Lizz62's topic in WIP: All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures
No visible photos! I'm seeing alot of the photobucket accounts requiring "updating", I'm guessing they want (more) money? -
A few AMT kits have those Weiand chrome mesh, triangular air cleaners that won't conceal your carb, and would be period -correct! Hi-Jacker air shocks and Lakewood traction bars were other favorite add-ons around here for that "race car" look on the street. Of course, you had to display the stickers that came with them, usually on a side window, so as not to spoil the paint job! Loving this build! GREAT work.
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Very cool stuff. Close to my heart - first driving date, driving my dad's 72 Satellite 4-door; light green metallic exterior, dark grassy green interior. Oh yeah.
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Ha! (Few get that) Volumes have been written about the errors of that body, but really the big errors are in those "swollen" areas just below the character line that swoops the length of the car. Over the fender and rear quarter, those shapes shouln't be there as presented. That is to say, the top of the form is OK, but it shoud not curve back in, forming that elongated balloon shape down the side. It shoud transition down smoothly to the contour of the door/ fender, uninterrupted. I can see where the designers were maybe looking at a photo, because the reflections in shiny paint on that body shows a similar shape, but belies the contour beneath. Hard to explain, when I get a little more sanding done, and smooth a bit of filler I will take some before and after shots, or more correctly; finished side versus untouched side. If you have a Monogram Chevelle body, it's easy to see the differences. They got their own proportional issues, but that part is more correct. My only other big nit to pick is the top of the back glass; too square at the top, and goes hand in hand with a too-abrupt curvature of the top of the C-pillar (Tumblehome, it's called) Easily improved with a file and sandpaper, and a bit of plastic glued in the window opening to rescribe the window's new contour. There are other very minor quibbles, but I don't want to overload you! It's all fixable, just takes patience. I'll start a thread and link you to it when I have more to show.
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One of GM's more handsome bodies, and you are doing it justice! Keep up the good work!
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Very nice treatment of the side chrome.
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Can be hard to make a white model look "right", but you nailed it! Especially loved your solution to the parking lights and grille; GREAT work!
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VERY nice; one of my favorite builds! More, please...
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Such nice front suspension work! I'm working on a 70 AMT body at the moment, trying to correct the sides; lots of filing/sculpting! Will you be working over the body mistakes as well?
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Beautiful work; I love seeing old kits brought to their potential by skilled application of basic building techniques! NICE!
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That's the old Monogram 1/24 '56, I'd recognize'er anywhere, especially in that baby-blue plastic! Should be easy enough to find a donor body to salvage a vent window/post repair piece from. If mine weren't currently in storage, I know I have a box with a couple of those bodies kept for whatever reason! Try posting a request in the "Wanted" section of the forums here, someone will donate one, I'd bet on it. Meanwhile, I'll see over the weekend if mine are anywhere within reach, if so, I'll send you a PM. Best of luck, and I'm watching all your builds with interest; your cars mirror my own interests, especially the 60 DeSoto. (Just recently scored one on eBAy as a fixer-upper)
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This is a great blank canvas for customizing; rock on!
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At a glance, it looks like you can lose a fair amount behind the rear wheels; look how long the area occupied by the gas tank is on the Lindberg kit. Yes to the above tips, do measure and get the wheelbase right first, but if you can lose some at the back, I would begin by cutting across the center of the gas tank on the Lindberg, removing a slice as wide as necessary, then, scribe both gas tanks free, patch the resulting trunk floor hole, and use the Johan tank glued in place to not only look more correct for the car, but to reinforce and hide a good deal of the splice seam. While it's cut free, you could take a bit of sheet plastic to give the gas tank a more accurate 3D appearance.
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Welcome Terry! Try putting the car body in the freezer before breaking loose glue joints - it can help immensely, in fact the freezing process will sometimes force the parts apart on its own. Looking forward to seeing what you make of this funky mopar! BTW, Purple Power is a generic version of Castrol's Super Clean (I think that was the brand name), as mentioned, you can find it at Wal-Mart, also Dollar General, and Auto Zone. It's reasonably priced by the gallon, just get a plastic container with a snap-on lid deep enough to submerge a model car body, and give'er a couple days soak before freezing. Best of luck!