Yea I noticed a few errors. Nevertheless I can't wait to see what mods people come up with for it on the PC. This was easily my game of the year for 2013,still playing online afew times a week. Anybody bought an Albany Roosevelt yet? It's pretty quick with a few mods on it.
Most grocery stores sell the same thing as girl scouts,but for 1.50. Taste the same and you get two times the amount per box for a fraction of the price.
I think you guys are misinterpreting my comment. I'm welcoming these guys as a cheaper way to get kids into the hobby that is better than standard snaps.
Working in a hobby shop I can tell you firsthand that most parents put the kit back on the shelf when told they need paint glue and other supplies. They don't really want to spend more than the 20 bucks for the kit.
I pressure pot is out of the question for me. Right now I'm just casting for myself and friends. If I do start selling products I will probably invest in a pressure pot. One thing I've been thinking about doing was making a little table I can put my molds on that vibrated. I have a few old phones lying around and my father used a vibrating component out of a phone before on a reloading press with good results so I might go this path with it.
Something is fishy. The original thread title never had the word Testors in it, not until skip posted. Not taking sides but pointing out shady coincidences.
What I'm mostly casting right now are rims. The bubbles tend to sink into either the lip of the rim or where the nut's go. It's really only in these areas that I'm having issues with. For example I just poured a rear bumper today for a 43rd scale mustang and it came out great with no air bubbles.
Been castin resin for a little while and the one issue that keeps plaguing my castings is air bubbles. How can I prevent these?I've tried heating my molds and warming the two parts before I pour them and it seems to help a little but I still have them.
I would suggest using Tamiya Lacquers as they are very user friendly. Use Tamiya fine white primer as your primer, then do two coats of TS-24 purple or however many till you get a smooth paint job. Then I would do one thick coat of Testors 1260 Dullcoat. Make sure to leave plenty of time between coats and to prepare the body properly before painting.
Could of sworn there was more to it than that. The one the I saw Okey had in his catalog was about the size of a standard MCG fret with all sorts of goodies on it.
This is just jaw dropping. Flawless paint, excellent bodywork, nice subtle chassis wear, and excellent details. Saying the car looked good would be an insult, I can't find and problems with it at all.
Does anyone have good pictures of an AMX 390 engine block? It would need to be out of the car and have direct on shots of each side. So far google has yielded nothing. I'm filling in the holes in my Jo-Han 390 and I need to replace/add detail.