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Beautiful paint color and finish. Great interior colors and finishes. Like the lighting.

Like how you opened the doors and trunk. The engine and chassis look great. You mentioned the hood and that you were not completely satisfied with how it looked, I noticed the same thing as well. Maybe one of the mid '60's MoPar S/S drag hood scoops would be a consideration.

Beautiful paint finish and trim. The interior has a really nice vinyl look and finish.

Remember on the 1:1 Fords of that era, anything much bigger than a flathead and you were going to have to build a new firewall anyway. Like how the BBC just does fit here.

Now I know where all the model kits from the KC Metro Ollie's have been going.

I would think if it's going to burst or leak that would have already happened. As for the effects on the paint and propellent. How different would this dent be different from warming the can in warm water before using? Nothing like living life on the edge.

A couple of suggestions on your flathead engine. I have gotten parts from Replicas & Miniatures in the past and they offer some great looking flathead accessories. There are also several other sources that also offer some excellent engine parts as well. With 2 97s the generator usually, not always, would stay in the stock location. In cases were say 3 - 97s were used or just clearance issues for whatever reason there were offset mounts for generators that moved them slightly out of the centerline of the engine and towards the passenger side. The fuel pump would often be replaced with an electric in line fuel pump and a small block off plate would cover and seal the intake opening. This would give you something to consider as you could just run a fuel line up to a fuel block on the firewall and run fuel lines on to the 97s. When we were young and dumb and considered appearances before safety red clear plastic fuel lines along with a fire extinguisher mounted somewhere within easy reach.

Here we call them rear window defoggers, usually. While most cars have had them for some time, it would take more than a few minutes to melt that snow load and by then this DA would be at highway speeds and the snow covering the rear window would start flying off and onto any following cars. Not sure if these people are just lazy or really don't give a care for anyone else in the world.

Good, look forward to seeing how this is progressing.

Another approach, if the chassis is warped, would be to contact Revell and share some of your pictures with them and see if they wouldn't replace the chassis for you.

Beautiful looking paint finish and striping along with the chassis overspray. Great looking interior and engine detailing.

Great looking paint color and finish, reminds me of the Firethorn color of the time. Like the clean body chrome trim. Nice engine detailing.

As to the question of the engine, the engine that came with this kit would be from a later model car with a flathead than what would have been in this kit originally. The reason I think this is that the engine you received has two features that would immediately identify it as an engine from 1949 or newer. The #1 would be the distributer mounting point as the 1948 or earlier distributers were mounted low on the front of the engine. #2 The radiator hoses between the upper tank of the radiator and the heads are at the front of the heads instead of the center as in the 1948 and prior engines. There would also be a deference in the rear of the engine where the transmission would mount. All that aside there is nothing saying you couldn't upgrade the drive train since you're already making some good looking headers. Multi carbs and some finned aluminum heads would go good as well.

Great looking basic interior and stock engine.

There is greater satisfaction doing the body work yourself sometimes.

Going to use the '60 wagon roof to convert a '59 Impala body into a wagon I had years ago. Make an "S" Barracuda model and maybe a Hang Ten model Duster as well.

The first thing I noticed looking at your build is the realistic looking body lines and trim moldings. The paint looks great and a good match for the OEM paint colors. Like the engine and interior detailing. While I knew of the Dan Gurney adventures, I find your story here every bit as interesting.

Great body work to match the photo along with the paint finishes. There used to be a TV program here called Roadkill and this has many of the appearances of some of their work.

Looks almost like an early funny car for the street. Beautiful paint and body work. Like the hood hinge design. Great looking interior.

You could always French the headlight bezels.

You may end up heating the chassis and gently lower the center section raising the front and rear sections to better align in the body.

That may explain why there are no parking lines where this guy abandoned his car.

Anything could be possible. Have you tried checking the chassis out of the body on a flat surface? That may show obvious signs of warpage. I have found on this, and the Charger models it seems like they are trying to stuff 6 gal. of chassis in a 5-gal bucket of body if you know what I mean.

I think the Ring Brothers built a very similar truck a few years ago.

From the picture it appears as if the chassis is pushed too far forward, and the rear portion is also pushed up into the body further than it would be when assembled. In the last picture notice that the details on the top of the inner fender where the front suspension struts would be mounted should be back against the firewall. Maybe temporarily mount the firewall in place with tape or white glue and the rear seating so that the chassis would be in its normal position within the body and then double check your alignment with the body.