Bugatti Fan

I don't get hung up if people do not respond, show courtesy or thank me for any of my posts. It is nice if they do though and I try to get back to them asap. However, we are not all blessed with plenty of time to spend on forums like this one, and other things have to take precedent. Getting back to the Rustoleum Krylon thing, or any other brands of DIY aerosols. Really, I just do not understand what is expected of them? Far from dismissing them as rubbish, those paints and aerosols are just not designed for spraying scale models. The hobby paint market is bursting at the seams with suitable paints and finishes from a great many manufacturers so why make life difficult by using totally unsuitable products?

I was curious and looked at your Allison engined concept car Bill. Although a 'What If' it captures the spirit of that inter war era very well from what I have seen so far of your WIP.

Philip certainly made a silk purse from a sow's ear. Those old Contrail vac form kits were not the best at the time. I built the Contrail Russian Bison and Bear bombers many years ago. A bit challenging shall we say.

Plastic cements. Horses for courses I find. I would imagine that Revell Contacta might have a similar sort of viscosity as the tube cum liquid mix mentioned. Maybe I will mix some up out of pure curiosity just to see how it pans out. My normal stock in trade cements Plastic Weld by Plastruct my first to go liquid cement. Revell Contacta as it has a little bit more thicker viscosity and precision applicator. Tamiya's very thin liquid cement that has a very nice little pointed applicator built into the cap and lastly good old Tube Cement, brand name immaterial as all I have used seem much the same. Like most of us I also have an arsenal of other assorted adhesives for wood, metal, card etc. Depending upon the need.

As BMF is very thin aluminium I would guess, there is a very small possibility of some form of oxidisation after a period of time but never experienced it on any of my much older models. It is just a matter of personal choice as to whether to clear coat after application of not. The main thing is to lay the foil down onto an absolutely blemish free surface. A coat of smooth gloss clear or colour (it doesn't matter) will be better for the foil to adhere to, much like a decal goes down better on a gloss surface.

Been using Halfords Primers for years. Excellent product.l

Matt, where can you get Zap Formula 560 in the UK? Approx cost? Cheers N

Was Virgil at the last GSL? Seems to have been well off the grid for quite a while. He made favourable comments about and recommended the magazine and this forum in his book Rats Rods n Rust.

Joe has been on here quite a bit recently!

Maybe using a rotary tool was a bit too fierce. Better perhaps to final polish by hand as you can actually feel what you are doing and have better control. Sometimes people mistakenly interpret polish and wax as having similar properties. Polish in our terms means a product that has some abrasive qualities to take back the painted surface in minute amounts to a desired finish. Wax on the other hand is a material that adds another layer that can be buffed to a shine. It will not remove scratches, but just fill them.

Looks like a very useful new product with many possibilities. Is the transfer paper produced in white or clear as domestic printers are generally set up to print onto white paper and cannot print white onto clear? Will have to remember the Koala brand name. I would imagine it will also be available over here in the UK in ISO A4 size.

Those older rods have a character all of their own that you are capturing well Bill. The Allison engined project looks like it might be very interesting when you make a start on it. A guy over here in the UK some years ago made a road going car with a Rolls Royce Merlin engine and even placed a Rolls grille on it at one time. I don't think that Rolls were very happy about the grille being used as it bore their trade marked radiator grille, badge and spirit of ecstasy mascot and I believe that they were removed from the car eventually. Pre war saw a number of racing and speed record cars with aeroplane engines fitted. I scratch built a model of the Brooklands Napier Railton that had a Napier Lion engine fitted and the research into the car was really interesting. Bill's Allison engined model car however will not have the restraints I had in building my model, so I reckon that it will be quite an awesome looking model when built! .

Would have liked to come across the pond and across to the GSL. Look forward to seeing all you guys pictures on the forum. Pity it is due to be the very last show. Surely someone could take up the baton and run it in the future?

Watched the Coronation Concert from Windsor Castle on TV last night. Brilliant show! A blend of top pop artistes, classical and contemporary ballet, acting and music, and orchestral backing by the Royal Corps of Music. Nice to see UK military musicians work a show like this instead of well known symphony orchestras.

Ray, you may have been able to get away with the BMF of you had two brackets on the pipe to give you two edges to work to. The white paint will be your best option that you are doing under the circumstances short of finding a local plating shop.

Didn't know there ever was a buying and selling page! I guess it anyone now wants to buy and sell privately they can PM one another and exchange Email addresses and take it off forum altogether so it becomes a personal private thing between two parties?

Further to my last posts, I think that I read somewhere in the dim distant past that someone else making a Duel model got the right style of wheel from one of AMT's fire engine kits. Could be wrong, but it might be worth pulling up some pics of fire engine builds and AMT box art to check.

Rob, yes I had forgotten that the Duel I built was 1/25th and not 1/24th so KFS would have nothing compatible.

Whenever you enter a competition a judgement is just someone else's opinion. Your model will be no worse when you take it off the table than when you placed it on the table. I was trying to place this as a regular quote on my posts. Saved it as an answer by mistake.

Sorry to hear that the C1 was unobtainable Ray. The Bare Metal Foil might be a good option if the wrap is around a cylindrical shape. I used BMF once to disguise some truly awful mould lines on the front bumper of a 1/12th scale Monogram 57 Chevy. Rubbed them down and polished smooth. Applied BMF and clear lacquered afterwards. Worked reasonably well to disguise the rework.

Rob. Thanks for your reply as I was not aware of M&G closing. 3D printing will probably be the best way to go. Another UK company that comes to mind is Kitform Services. They started with civilian truck items and went almost completely over to military in 1/24th scale. I believe that they are under new ownership and may be re introducing some civilian truck items again.

The GSL looks to be a really good show that I shall never get to. I would have liked to meet face to face some of the great modellers who contribute on here. Heard that this coming one will be the last unfortunately.

Watching King Charles the Third's Coronation today,

Rob. In answer to your question I simply do not know anything really about the wheel sizes. it was such a long time ago (back in the 80's) I built my model and I simply used the kit wheels. I just happened to spot in pictures of the real truck well after I had built the model that the front wheels were slotted instead of having a number of circular holes in them. Just out of interest, there is a small cottage industry UK company named M&G Mouldings who husband and wife Michael and Georgina Gannon run from home. They have been making resin cast wheels and other items for truck modellers for years so have a look at their website and you may find something that you are looking for.