Bugatti Fan

Pete, I couldn't agree more. The number of times my tab!et changes words to something completely different to what I type in gets irritating. Doesn't happen on my PC fortunately. There are differences in Oxford English and US English that get flagged on American sites as I would expect as I naturally use Oxford English when typing. Perfectly acceptable differences. It is when words are used out of context like dual and duel that get me.

Pete, that was meant to be a tongue in cheek joke.

Try a PM to him.

Pete, I reckon that we all have hardened skin on our thumbs and fingers! If not from PC bits it's the Pin Vice!

Thanks for coming back Dennis. I thought that it was the CMA kit you have. Looks fantastic. On their website Marshall Buck appears to be developing the ultimate GT40 kit in 1/12th scale. Seems to have been on there forever, so don't know if it will ever be on sale. Better get his skates on before MFH decide to kit it!

Was searching for posts about the Duel Peterbilt. Had to wade through loads of posts where Duel was used instead of Dual. Duel........a contest or fight. Dual.......multiples of.

Bruce, your model is really taking shape and coming to live now. Look forward to seeing further progress. Dennis in Winnipeg. You never came back about your 1/14th scale kit if it was made by Marshall Buck's CMA company.

Tamiya made a kit of that particular Jeep that had the rectangular headlamps.

Like Peter said about airbrush cleaning. It is just a necessary part of being an airbrush user. I strip them occassionally, but after each use I spray neat cellulose thinners straight through the airbrush until it sprays through clear but then follow on with a dedicated airbrush cleaner. Saves having to continuously take the airbrush to bits between sprayings. Since my last post I was speaking to a friend who has used cellulose thinner instead of normal enamel thinners with enamel through an airbrush. He claims it helps the paint to dry.more rapidly. Has anyone else tried this?

Any material, metal or plastic suffers stress when formed cold in any way. As polystyrene becomes more malleable when heated as it is a thermosetting plastic, another method is dipping in very hot water to soften it or placing it on an oil filled radiator. It is a bit trial and error until you get a feel for how the material will respond.

Interesting discussion. Over here in the UK we have a nationwide motor accessory store named Halfords. Their own brand white and grey acrylic rattle can primers work well for me on polystyrene plastic, resin and metal. There are of course primers like Alclad that are designed for airbrush use if preferred. Another thing is never spray acrylic over any enamel type of paint. Ok the other way around. Acrylic dries out into an airtight plastic film when applied. Enamels stay 'soft' for quite a long time even though feeling dry.

Nice model and different. Did the kit contain a little red book of instructions? Lol.

Lovely Corvair model, really looks the part. Unsafe At Any Speed! Wasn't there a book published with that title many years ago that castigated the car industry for lack of built in car safety features? I seem to remember it being very controversial at the time.

I can remember building one of those back in the day. Seem to remember using chrome Sellotape that only seems to get sold before Christmas, sticking it to some thin card and using a circular punch to make reflective discs to go behind the headlamp lenses. Back in the late sixties early seventies when I used to play in a local football team, some of us used to pile into a Mark 10 that one of the players had at the time. Quite luxurious!

If you think about it those small tungsten carbide bits are not dissimilar in shape to a centre drill that would be used on a lathe. The only problem that I have encountered when drilling plastics with small drills of any kind is the heat generated that could bind melted plastic onto the bit. My little lathe does not have a variable speed control unfortunately. Those that have benefit by being able to run the machine at slow speeds, therefore reducing the possibility of melting plastic onto the bit.

A really lovely model Pascal. I have been following your build with interest!

Daniel. Thanks for the clarification. Interesting to note how you other guys use them as well.

Daniel, please explain what you.mean about using the bit itself. The shanks are generally much bigger than the bit diameter, so not sure how you could do that. Also you said about using them in a mill. OK for vertical pressure like using a drill press but sideways movement would cause breakage on small diameter bits. Are you referring to bits with a larger diameter where the shank and cutting big size would be the same?

Airbrush and/or compressor? It really always comes down to what one can afford as generally these two items represent most model makers biggest investment. My only advice to a would be buyer is to take a cold hard look at what you want to use them for. Compressors come in many forms. A small compressor with a pressure holding tank, moisture trap and pressure gauge would suit most modellers needs. Avoid the small diaphragm type ones that are designed for DIY and pumping up tyres etc. Airbrushes. Well we are spoilt for choice here. Look at what you want to use it for. Generally spraying or fine detail work for custom paint jobs will determine what you will need. Good airbrushed do not come cheap! They are a precision instrument, and the cost reflects this. Stay with a trusted brand like Badger, Paasche, Iwata or Harder and Steenbeck. There are a few other good ones, but there are also many cheap ones out there that look like a bargain coming with all bells and whistles. A cheap one might be ok if used very seldomly, but for constant use it would be foolish to compromise on quality when buying

Oliver has described these bits in detail as they are designed to drill printed circuit boards on a CNC drilling machine that works at high revs. I amassed a number of them when in the past I worked at a PCB manufacturer. Very brittle and when subjected to side pressure very easy to break.

Very nice model from that old Entex kit. A bit of rarity today However if anyone wants a 1/8th scale JPS F1 car, a brand new Pocher kit is in the pipeline this year I believe. Maybe on the Hornby website? I

It is amazing what some of you guys do with that very, very old originally from Merit kit. The Alfa and the Talbot Lago moulds have moved from Merit to SMER and now Atlantis. Merit had a range of 50's racing car kits besides those two. The moulds were sold on to a toy company in Italy, but to my knowledge have never been re released by them or anyone else since the Merit days.

Iconic Movie Motor. Should be an interesting built to follow.

Quite a number of innovative ways shown on here to simulate leather seats besides mine. All good means to an end!

If the Bare Metal Foil company get enough complaints the problem might get sorted. I doubt it BMF even look at forums like this, so the gripes go unnoticed probably.