PatW

Cheers Dale.

I built this box stock, but had to renovate the decals as the paper they were on had turned to card. I scanned these to the pc and re-printed them a few times adjusting the colour and brightness, although they are still not exactly right. The smaller decals were too difficult to bringback into focus. I also added two of a few new home-brewed decals I'm trying to perfect. In this case both are on the front wing, one has a painted hand and on the other a coloured paint run.

And yet again another bargain from ebay.uk a.............Ford Fooler from 1975!! The instructions are a huge A4 sheet of paper with info on both sides! The funny bit is though (to me anyway) is that it says that for all chrome parts there is a letter 'C' after the sprue number. But there aren't any chrome parts, but to my joy the whole kit except black hard rubber tyres comes in the brightest yellow you ever did see, my favourite colour! The five decals, three number 3's and two short white stripes are completely shot! So I'll hunt through my decal stash to see if I have any I can use!

3 from ebay UK.................... Which I may do a 'woody' camper. Which I may turn into a shop truck as the front end is rather old.

Thanks again Richard, for your info, I suppose it's a suck it and see job! Gradually heating the water and trying the screen at different temperatures and tweaking it as I go along.

Thanks Harry. It's just as I thought. Since putting this on here I found a youtube video where the guy was straightening out a warped shell,with boiling water, so I thought I might try that. Thanks again.

Thanks for your input Richard. I have tried with thin clear plastic, having used the original as a template, but because the 'new' piece is 'springy' it's difficult to set it into the slotted groove below the edge of the window surround which is very narrow even to tape it down. As it is a Revell Germany kit, I have contacted them for a replacement only today and hope for an answer to my email soon.

I'm building a car model that has the windows seperated in single units fitted from the outside of the bodyshell. The rear and sides fit perfectly, but the front screen is warped/distorted on the sprue and when offered up to the body touches along the top but is a distance away on the bottom right hand corner. I regularly make roll chages so know how to warm plastic rod/sprue to the right temperature to bend to shape and not to burn or melt through. But how do you straighten out, bend reasonably thick clear 'glass' plastic windscreens to fit the aperture in the shell please?

Looks great, not a car we have here in the UK.

Thanks Bruce, yes I bought the dio from Scale Productions.de in Germany.

Built box stock, changed the drab grey interior to yellow and added a few decals here and there.

Thanks Atin, yes I'd noticed just last week about the prices! I bought mine through ebay two/three years ago. I'd already scanned the decals, but didn't print off another set because these went on so well.

Thanks Dann. Here she is............................

Thanks Dann. No we don't see many Dragon kits here so this is an old Revell kit. Having seen 30+ of these racing in their own series at Silverstone (5 miles up the road) these wheels are the most popular.

I built this box stock after I had shortened the chassis by about an 1/8th of an inch! When I first offered the chassis up to the body it was much too long. So where the step is in front of the rear wheels I cut the chassis and glued it to the interior tube then into the channel in the rear bumper that takes the chassis tab. I then shaved a bit off at a time until by test fitting the front tab, that fits to the bottom of the front bumper was short enough to drop into place. I then cleaned up the cut section by adding small pieces of plasticard, and repainting matt black. Original chassis......................... Modified Chassis...................... It also ensured that both front and rear axles/wheels were central in the wheel wells. The decals are of the original kit that are a bit discoloured but slide on and dry very well. I did consider printing a copy but would have been unable to cut out the discoloured portions between the coloured chequerboard squares. Also when lightening the copied image of the decal sheet, the colours faded and lost their crispness.

Well done Alan great build and weathering! I remember these on the stages when I first started rally marshalling in the day. My youngest son was at 6 years old and one of Roger Clark's greatest fans. But he was unusually speechless when we met him (and the late great James Hunt) at the Tour of Britain stage at Silverstone (where I also did Race Marshalling). Yes Matthew was wide eyed and speechless!

Thanks Dann.

Cheers Brian.

Thanks guys for your comments, It's not an easy kit to build though.

The top is part of the body, so that would need slicing off, but there's another idea of how this could look, I look forward to seeing it. Yes it would look good too with VW/Corvair/Porsche power in the back, although the chassis would need serious reworking or use a beetle chassis!

Cheers Brian, yes now what colour?

Thanks guys, yes it's a bit different.

I've built this box stock and added an air filter,and tyre decals. Painted in Plasti-Kote spray can Copper, not entirely happy with the bonnet, but can just running out, ordered another and it's come in the post a different shade. I suppose batches of paint colour change slightly, but it was noticably darker.Suprised no air filter in the kit and it doesn't show one on the instructions.Both doors opened and closed fine until I tried to get the tub in then they wouldn't close so glued them shut.

Just my ideal build, no paint, easy build, basic painted interior. Superb!

Are there any on this thread? I got to the third page but couldn't find any.