Zoom Zoom

IIRC the Modelhaus offered a '60 Dodge wagon in resin, and it would have been plated in that same fashion.

Because those that view "latest" posts see all chronological posts in their feed by everyone that posts. Sometimes an ignored member posts a rash of comments/posts and it can be annoying to some degree to have to scroll past so many posts. It's kind of like Facebook, but at least on FB you won't see posts by the "unfollowed". Not everyone has the time or desire to see everything that's out there.

Looks like a great kit, but I'm still perplexed by Honda making it so bland looking and that Tamiya developed the kit! The Civic Type R is quite popular, yet no model kit of it exists unless you want a boutique resin kit. Now if Honda wants to add a bit more spice to the Prelude, maybe some of the 3D wizards will make some goodies for this kit and offer as prints or files on Cults for home printers. Kinda like this:

The real car isn't quite available yet, there are some review videos on YouTube, it's even too soon for actual driving reviews. I'm on the fence about getting the kit until after I actually see the real cars.

That's one of my favorite channels on YT. Love the cars she builds and how she accomplishes things and her sense of humor. I would kill for a drive in the V8 Celica. And wonder upon wonders, the new CRX project, one of my favorite old Hondas...I can't believe they're that old, I remember when they were new, for the day they were quick little buggers.

I've seen/heard nothing about a stock hood. That said, I'll bet there will be more '64 variants of this kit down the road. I have the stock AMT Craftsman kit and never found it enticing enough to actually build it. The street machine of this new Moebius '64 is on my radar.

I often spray my chrome plated bumpers with Tamiya LP clear in case I need to handle them much during paint detailing/attaching headlight lenses, etc.

Novus #2 fine scratch remover/polish for plastic. A lot of hobby shops carry it. It will remove adhesive residue and do a fantastic job polishing the foil to make it look even more realistic. It does not contain silicone, it's also great for polishing the paint job itself. Been using it for 4 decades. If you screw up something along the way, it won't create fisheyes in subsequent layers of paint. Back in the day (mid-80's) I got my first bottle of Novus (at a motorcycle shop, it works well for cleaning/polishing face shields) and realized that it was identical to the polish that Bare Metal Foil used to sell under their own label, I used it a lot. I'm pretty sure it's the exact same stuff as Novus #2. Some people swear by "The Treatment", but I tried it and and hated it. I swore at it. It has some sort of solvent in it that can soften various paints, probably fine for old 1:1 cars with single stage paint, but in my experience for model paint jobs it failed. Novus has none of those hidden solvents, I can tell by the smell of certain polishes whether or not it will work for model car paint. WD-40 has no value to me whatsoever on my model workbench, it can stay in the garage where it belongs 😊

If perhaps it gets reissued at some point they'll likely add the seat pattern decals, something they've been doing on some of their latest vintage reissues.

The only one I remember Juha doing for RMCM 20-25 years ago was a cool custom "new edge" style '46 Ford coupe that RMCM sold for a number of years. Have one in the stash to build "someday". Rik Hoving (from the Netherlands) did a lot of masters for RMCM.

That's Rik Hoving's site and it's not Swedish, he's in the Netherlands.

A year ago it was estimated these kits would be out around now. Nowhere in sight. I'm okay with that, let Moebius get 'em right. Not like my stash is going to evaporate any time soon...

I bought a new 1986.5 B2200 SE-5, great little truck. The example shown is a B2600 extended cab, that's a Mitsubishi engine. 3100 lb. truck w/122 HP from the factory. If you want to do an engine swap, consider that this is a vehicle that weighs 800 lbs. more than an early Miata. As an example, my Mazda-obsessed buddy got a B2600 extended cab and did a 13B rotary conversion for a more modern '80's take on the Mazda REPU from the 70's that was based on the Ford Courier. In theory an interesting conversion for overall horsepower, but reality is it felt like a dog because rotaries make all their HP above 5,000 RPM. It was totally gutless in normal traffic. Probably needed a different transmission with shorter gears. He ended up selling it to someone else. It was a quality conversion by a master Mazda mechanic, but the results were underwhelming. Trucks need some torque. You aren't going to get a bit of torque out of an early Miata engine w/o a turbo or supercharger. 3rd generation (06-'15) Miatas ran a 2.0 MZR. A popular swap for them is getting a 2.5 out of something like a Ford Fusion which revs a bit slower but makes more HP and torque. If you're going to go to the effort of a motor swap, you need to do a lot of research. That truck doesn't need a ton of HP, it needs torque. In theory a Miata motor might be a fun idea, but reality is it'll be a lot of work for a very underpowered truck. I'm sure if you dig around you can find some information on what other people have put into the old Mazda PU's for more HP at minimal cost for a decent junkyard engine swap.

A lot of 3D printers include a wash and UV cure station for the parts. I've heard that you can put old yellowed decals in one of those boxes for curing the resin and it'll do the same trick as putting the decal sheet in a window and letting the sun do it's magic.

Tamiya TS spray lacquers are excellent. After you've watched some videos on paint prep, priming, painting consider getting a can of TS-59 Pearl Light Red, it's a mauve-like pink. These paints are designed for modelers for plastic models (not 1:1 cars) and apply very smooth as long as you've done a good job on body prep and use a good quality Tamiya or Mr. Hobby white primer. Their TS-13 gloss clear is also almost fool-proof. Grab some white plastic spoons to test out the various spray paints you want to use before committing to spraying the actual model body.