Zoom Zoom

I have one of their new kits (MX5 Global Cup racer) and it's very nice. Well worth the $88 or so; the quality is excellent as is the packaging. I've had worse Modelhaus kits that cost more $$...

You'll be sorely disappointed. These resin kits are all curbside.

For a stock Chiron I think I can stick with the decent Welly diecast for about 1/6th the price of the resin kit. The Vision GT version is really cool though!

Nothing from Aoshima/Hasegawa this time that inspires me; that's okay. My personal desire for 1/24 RX2, RX4, and R100 coupes in plastic might never happen LOL. Mild interest in the Civic racer. I might get the Modeler's 2017 Civic Type R...and not the 2018 Camry I'm about to start building their MX5 Global Cup racer, pretty nice resin kit.

Great show, should be a lot of us ACME members there.

Eric, that Comet is absolutely insanely cool! As expected Glad the Molotow worked out so well for you. I almost wonder if the Spaz Stix clear is an enamel, when dry it's definitely softer than a lacquer.

Thanks; I need to update the picture as I sold the white Miata in 2014 to one of my best friends and now have a red '06. Loved the white '96, best car I have ever owned. The red one is much faster and quite reliable but not quite as bulletproof as the '96. Alclad's Aqua Gloss is acceptable as well but it's not quite as clear as the Spaz Stix clear. I was surprised how poorly Future did on Molotow; a Future dip w/Alclad or Spaz Stix chromes works quite well, better than their own clears. But not for Molotow...

When airbrushed you spray in wet coats; treat it like paint and don't do mist coats, the wet coats allow it to keep the "liquid mylar" appearance. Do NOT put it in a dehydrator for at least several hours. Better off to wait overnight; the finish will dull if put in a dehydrator too soon. Would like to see "Liquitex" results. My best results by far were protecting with Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear, airbrushed after the chrome was thoroughly dry. It barely changed the reflective appearance. Future was the worst, dulled it to silver. This stuff is nothing like Alclad or Spaz Stix chromes. Thankfully!

Wow, love this model and the real car is one of my favorite Mustangs of all time. Nice restoration! I need to restore the ones I have; one is better than the other. This is quite inspiring!

Molotow is so good I'll never use Alclad or Spaz Stix chromes ever again; Alclad black chrome is excellent though. Molotow airbrushed in wet coats, allowed to dry for a day or two, coated by Spaz Stix ultimate clear coat is pretty awesome. It's not as "perfect" as plated chrome, but still a huge improvement over the old standards. And plated chrome often looks too shiny. See for yourself; Molotow sprayed w/o clear, and Molotow sprayed w/a protective coat of Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear:

I suffer spontaneous Tourette's when I see the stock "die-cut foamcore" wheels and spontaneous narcolepsy every time I consider ordering one of these, so you might be waiting awhile... Had it been a 323 GTX I'd already have one built!

Tamiya molded the Tamtech bodies in a two-shot mold process (Google it), the glass is molded w/separate runners, the body molded "around" it, so the glass is integral with the body and cannot be removed. The glass isn't separate nor glued in. The 961 kit includes window detail decals to be applied to the inside of the glass, and exterior masks so you can paint the exterior of the body. The windshield frame is molded to the body and should be painted flat black after the body is painted. The center of the rear spoiler is separate.

I really like these. They're quite good, and dry flat...no gloss. They mix well too. I threw away the Black Detailer years ago, truly terrible product.

Awesome Pico! Maybe I'll get lucky and see a real one on Saturday (they moved it again due to rain for Sunday) at Amelia Island...I think it will be a bit warmer than Philly

Stickers only, no decals? Which Revell bean counter did Fujimi hire?

Sorry to hear about your loss, I know what you're feeling, it's awful when it happens...last year I went through the same thing, losing both of my beloved senior kitties 8 mos. apart, one to kidney failure, the other to cancer. Needless to say the house was too quiet (first time in about 35 years w/o a cat in the house), with some encouragement and researching the local animal rescues I quickly adopted a sweet, happy 2 1/2 year old kitty just before Thanksgiving, and in January adopted a 4 month old male kitten from the same rescue organization/fosters who has been awesome as well, we immediately bonded and he's a sweet lap hog and he's got his older sister playing like a kitten too.

No flyer to link, but it's May 19th.

To me personally that's too nice a promo to "Sharpie" the trim which will destroy any "real" collector value. BMF is okay and reversible. It's your model to do what you please, but in the same thread seeing people tell you it's too nice to touch or the other extreme to "Sharpie" the trim...basically asking a question in a forum you're never going to get a solid, reliable consensus. So it's all up to you to make the decision. It was $10 and they aren't that rare. Just how much effort do you want to go through to sell this one and get another one that's not as nice? And likely will still cost you a lot more than $10?? Whatever you choose, go with your gut, and how you'll most enjoy the finished model. Here's what I did w/a restorable '74 kit: The above (stock) is how it remains. The donk version was done for a show theme, it literally was a "Donk For A Day" when it debuted for that show and immediately taken to stock after that show. I was given the Caprice for free from a friend who had another friend give him a whole box full of similar vintage built models. I have a similar '69 Bonneville to restore.

$526 USD is the MSRP. Well now, those will just fly off the shelves... No thanks!! Not even if it's the 288 GTO.

Very nice! A good friend of mine had one like this; we swapped bikes on a ride one time (I had Nighthawk S) and I found the Hawk to be an extremely fun, agile bike. He loved the Nighthawk too, a good bit more power than he was used to. Fun times from 20 years ago...

Can't wait to see this today at ACME

What a beauty! Nice.

Welcome back to the success of finishing a fine model! Nice work, and you know it feeds the ability to keep going

Wow, that's a huge improvement!!

If they haven't done LHD dash by now, your hopes are dashed. I used to be bugged by RHD only models, but slowly realized on the ones I built it really didn't matter, it wasn't a focal point. It's a complete non-issue now, though if given the choice on a US-centric subject, I'll take LHD. I wish Hasegawa had done a LHD dash for their new '75 Civic; it would also need US-specific turn signals and perhaps side mirrors. But it won't stop me from building the one I have.