Zoom Zoom

I'll buy the Ford GT LeMans for sure, it's a Revell USA kit; we get it first. And I'd forgotten about the Pirelli GTI; perhaps I'll go for that since the base GTI kit is pretty sweet. Perhaps combine it w/my Cabrio that I've always intended to build as a tuner in triple black...the antithesis of the triple-white Barbie mobiles that plagued the world for too long It really depends on how well they do the wheels/tires. Ugh...that reality is not looking good from a historical perspective, is it?

Sad state of affairs, isn't it? There is literally nothing from Revell Germany that I will buy in 2018. Nothing. Easily first time in 10-15 years they literally have nothing coming I want.

Ah...and I just spied one of the bumper sensors in that 1:1 photo, reflections doing a good job hiding it. More detail pictures like the brakes and chassis tree that show just how "enthusiastic" the kit engineers and designers were on this project. And then last week we were treated to this kit description on Revell Germany's own webpage. It was so perfectly on-point that it didn't remain long, but Google has a cache... Alas it was updated to this:

The photo of the real car is likely one w/o parking sensors at all. They're optional...that's how Porsche makes so much profit, the option prices are punishing, and you might be surprised what's not standard on a high $$ car.

No I do not. Hoping it's UV stable; it's clear in the bottle. It hasn't been around long enough to compare with products that have been around for decades. I had some replating done years ago by a guy in Canada (Chrome Plus??) who used way too much clear over the parts, and the clear he used yellowed over time.

I tried it on a spoon test with some Tamiya yellow masking tape. Even though sprayed months ago, it pulled up some of the chrome effect. On a spoon that I clearcoated with Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear (which hardly touched the reflection of the Molotow), no problem.

It's part of the charm of building a series; once complete I'd have the boring base Rabbit, the GTI, the Caddy, and the Cabriolet. Partly because they're all geeky cool, and also because it's one of Revell Germany's best 1/24 efforts. I doubt anyone will be saying that about the Panamera...

My intention with mine is to build just an OOB boring, stock Rabbit with it, to contrast w/the Revell GmbH GTI variant. I already used one Rabbit for my C1 Caddy conversion.

I've shot Molotow through both an Iwata HP-CS Eclipse and a Grex Tritium TG. Equally good results.

It's actually a gem of a kit; a lot of them got sold cheap at Ollie's. Good luck with it! Great mainstreamer model.

I've been testing it since summertime, have a comprehensive article submitted to Scale Auto for (I think) April issue. It's great stuff. Forget everything you learned about Alclad/Spaz Stix chromes...this is far more user-friendly and looks much better. If you demand perfection, continue using professional services that do vacuum plating. In general: 20 psi is good (no thinning required), it covers anything and everything as it's very pigment-dense and sprays just like real paint; you want smooth? Make sure you spray it on a smooth surface. Spray it WET. Let it dry a minimum of 24 hours, 48 is even better, before handling, putting in a dehydrator, whatever. Recently bought the Best Model Car Parts Corvair Rampside that someone here posted, have been working on it now for a couple weeks. It's about ready for paint, here is the chrome I shot this weekend: [/img] [/img] [/img] The spoon above is Molotow w/airbrushed overcoat of Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear. Try that with Alclad or Spaz Stix!

It's merely the Revell US build 'n play Ford GT in a different box.

And I thought D Revell ran off the 1/24 tracks last year w/the Porsche tractor & Panamera. Oh well, more $$ to spend w/the competition.

Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Amazing stuff. Available at most hobby shops. I use it on every model.

I haven't looked at the kit since 2009 when it got put back in the box, dejected and disgusted. Too big a handful for a meager return...

Pretty much what I do (pre-cut strips for wheel edge moldings), or line up one edge and trim another. Have you tried the new Tamiya tape for curves? It's plastic and has a good, clean edge that's more precise than regular crepe-paper masking tape. It might be ideal for making a temporary cutting edge. It's similar to 3M style masking tape for curves intended for 1:1 bodyshop use.

Looks like I might finally buy an ICM kit. Nothing before this has caught my eye, but this one does.

I often cut very thin strips of foil that are close if not exactly the width I need, and carefully apply it so little or no trimming is necessary, especially on trim that has poor engraved detail to use as a cutting guide. I need to try the tape trick as well, though I'm pretty satisfied w/my method, which is easy enough even if/when my hands aren't totally steady.

Soft lighting makes it difficult to see reflected light/dark that gives you the "shiny" look. In my photo box I use portable pieces of white & black boards (illustration board & foamcore) to position on the side (usually the right side) so you can see reflected light into the model's sides. In fact the black board is "permanently" clamped to the right side, and I clip a thin (about 4" wide) strip of white foamcore to that wall, and reposition it as needed to see the reflection. My lights are all above the box, not on the sides. I use poster board backdrops most of the times, sometimes colored paper if the subject is too white/bright for contrast. When at shows I see SA photographers using foil-covered portable reflective boards as necessary for the same reflected light effect.

While I don't think there are many suitably 80's whitewall radials out there (would be nice if Fireball Modelworks did some....), if you can live w/the kit tires, Bandit T/A smooth-side tires, or similar (even old TRX tires from the parts box), and use either Pegasus vinyl whitewall stickers or are adept using a circle template w/a white "Gellyroll" gel pen, you can get pretty decent results.

I love this model; it's very typical of what custom builders in Japan have done to real cars, it looks so cool and better yet...it's built from a diecast model not plastic. Plastic would have been easy/easier by comparison. I'm impressed on multiple levels; great finish and so cool!

Recently received my order from Joseph, I'm extremely pleased with the parts! Impressive quality, quick turnaround-delivered faster than the original estimate.

Tamiya's kit is just a simple curbside intended for motorization. I don't have the '79 version but the '81 restyle version...nice body, but simplified interior and especially chassis. The Monogram (now Revell) RX7 is much better overall, and it's the only first generation full-detail RX7. The stock intake is not Y shaped and when installed looks correct. The Y-shaped piece is for the race version, not sure what Monogram used as reference but it probably should have ports going to the center of the engine as well.

That looks great!

I'll bet with that headliner detail there are some epic visible sink marks on the outer roof. Perhaps they cost-reduced a panoramic roof from the clear tree. The other comments on the body are basically SOP for Revell Germany kits. They always seem to require more finishing work in the primer stage than almost any other modern kit; sloppy mold lines, wavy surfaces, inconsistent panel lines, sink marks...you feel you've really "made it" by the time you shoot color on it. Perhaps this is also why they chose a solid roof panel. Again...really wish this was the Sport Turismo...to my eyes it's by far the best looking Panamera. Revell GmbH doesn't seem to operate like Revell USA or other companies by making variations of a basic kit, it's usually one and done with them, or both (like the VW Golf) intro'd basically at the same time.