Zoom Zoom

Revell was not at Atlanta last year and won't be there this year. Looks to me like the only shows the "big 3" will be attending w/any regularity will be the NNL in Detroit and NNL East. Toledo vendor area was way too quiet this year.

The problem w/the car is it uses the aforementioned Coronet doors/side glass, but Barracuda front and rear glass intended for a far lower roofline. It really spoils the appearance. If it were a true factory concept, they wouldn't have cheaped out on the glass...it would either have the front/rear glass made bigger, or the side glass/frames chopped...which would have been preferable. As-is it's awkward at best.

I can't wait, love these 1st gen Civics. I see the interior bucket is yet another one that's going to be a big letdown compared to the rest of the kit, at least when it comes to side panels.

Beautiful work, the base model is good but you took it exactly where it belongs!

I only use it for filling areas no deeper than a scratch and it dries amazingly fast. You've got either a chemical reaction to the surface applied to, or applied it too thick, or perhaps both.

For airbrushing you can use either one for your Tamiya acrylics. The lacquer thinner was developed later primarily to make their acrylics spray more like lacquers. It will also help gloss acrylics dry somewhat faster. If you ever decant Tamiya spray cans for use in the airbrush, use the lacquer thinner to thin it a bit more.

Nice job, I've built 4 of those rotten Fujimi short tail F1's including the LM...seriously flawed kits, but looks like I made the right choice building them since it seems Aoshima gave up after the odd longtail they did.

Nice work!

That was Academy, who are owned by the same folks as Italeri, I believe. The kits aren't knockoffs, they're just marketed to the Korean market as generic to get around Ferrari licensing which is a monster pain in the backside for just about any company outside of Tamiya and Fujimi. Notice how Revell doesn't have a single Ferrari anymore?

No tooling ended up in China, they're simply poor knockoff copies of a Tamiya original. They are lousy kits by comparison, and $10 isn't a deal, unless you like ragged mold lines, poorly printed stickers instead of metal transfers, etc. I've seen some of these kits up close, and having built and bought the Tamiya versions, I can tell a lousy copy from the original with ease. I can find Tamiya originals for about $15, no question of value by comparison. The closeup of the engine intake? Horrible quality! The Tamiya engines in these are magnificent, they are so well molded they practically hold themselves together w/just the pins & receivers, and surface quality is perfect. Not on that lousy copy!! There are a few Tamiya kits copied, but it's been many years ago and isn't even close to a common occurence.

Ditto. I never look at mobile site, but tried it just now. Have no idea why some people referred to me by the name of the town I live in, since neither show on Safari on my phone.

I figured that must be the case; I never view this forum on my phone.

Bob Downie. It's in my signature under every post. You have signatures turned off?

Yeah, it's about time to have this one back!

My name isn't Tucker, unless yours is Minneapolis

That used to bug me too. Not any more; I realize the RHD models I have built never "call attention" to their driving position. I also see many Japanese-market cars at our local car shows now that the 25 year rule is in effect, allowing importation of cars never seen here before. It's pretty cool. I have no problem w/the Civic being RHD, but if you study the actual dash design, it won't be that hard to convert...if the aftermarket doesn't accommodate.

If you read the first post, Jonathan referenced the 2002 tii version that is already out. I believe he's also shared photos of it under construction and finished. 2002 tii kit

I got my preorder in this morning. Should be good "holiday building" if I get them both shipped after the Civic comes in.

Should be on sale by Dec. 1st in Japan. BMW Turbo should be on sale Nov. 3 in Japan. I have pre-orders already placed.

I've shot through my #3 Grex tip and whatever my Iwata Eclipse (finer tip) is. Unregulated small tankless hobby compressor. It sprays just like paint.

I had a blast building these from the Revell snap kit; if you don't need an engine it's a very nice kit. The stock one has a few modifications, the race version a few more. Both used VRM's decals, there were extra emblem decals (amazing...chrome base layer and you add color layers on top) for the stock version which I built after the race version.

Love the 1/24th Monogram sports cars. Just finished a couple of the reissued RX7's, one I can't show yet (race version) and this one, built as a base-model using steel wheels/Dunlops from a Fujimi early GTR wheel & tire parts pack: Here's what I did w/the 924, I researched and built a Martini Edition, making my own stripes digitally and printing them using a laser printer on decal film. It's easy when the base color is white.

The ink is dense; with the pen you need to keep the area wet with the ink as you apply it...with just a little practice it can look almost like liquid mylar when applying it. It doesn't need any sort of special undercoat, it is a completely different animal than Alclad or Spaz Stix chrome products, or also Sharpies when it comes to manipulating the pen. The fine tip 1 mm Molotow pen is the only one I really like using as a pen; the 2 and 4 mm sizes paint areas large enough that I'd rather run the Molotow ink through my airbrush...which is pretty amazing in itself. Regardless of application, let it dry thoroughly for 24-48 hours, as it gets pretty durable after that time.

That's precisely why I don't have the Moebius kit. The Belvedere would have been a sure sale if had been done more correctly; roof/glass/cowl design issues are too cartoonish for me to bother, it's not enough of a grail for me to bother to fix it. I have plenty of other models to build so it's not a big deal to move onto something better. Guess there's no reliable way to predict how big/visible flaws limit overall sales, but I'm sure it's a factor.

Alclad is a paint process, so it is as allowable as painting the body (and removing mold lines). You might want to try the Molotow liquid chrome; it sprays much more like paint (even though it's an ink), and covers any base color. No jumping though hoops for a gloss black base, or putting on too much. And the final results generally are better than the most perfect application of Alclad. You can buy a pen to test it out, and open it up carefully (find Youtube how-to video), and see how it shoots through your airbrush. Once it has dried thoroughly it's also much more durable than Alclad or Spaz Stix, which I find superior to Alclad; though Alclad makes an incredible black chrome that's something I've used a lot lately for modern wheels. If you like the Molotow for spraying, purchase a refill container. It goes a long way as it's very pigment-dense. Didn't need any thinning for me. The refills just have hit the US distribution channels in the past couple of days, soon to be available just about anywhere the pens are sold.