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I decant Tamiya matte and semigloss clear as needed to apply over glossy finishes that need to be toned down. So easy.

I'm still a Fotki fan and have always rather hated PB, even w/adblocker that site is and has been a mess. And tons of photos that lose their links. I never understood the love for PB, except from the aspect of "it's FREE". Now that they want $400 a year to link to 3rd party sites like this, I see it as PB's suicide mission. Which won't affect me, but honestly...it's like they want to fail, and tick off their long-time supporters. Always have a Plan B.

Thanks; love those stripes that were first shown by Mazda for the Global Cup car. Those front hood/fender stripe decals were the only ones I had issues with when applying, it's quite a compound curve up and over and I had to use the hot-water "tampo" trick to get them to settle in place. A friend's wife gets these very fine/soft makeup wedge sponges (I think from Ulta), she's got enough to give us model guys some to use, and they're worth their weight in gold. Hot tap water and that sponge made a difference that decal solvent wasn't going to make getting those decals settled (and quickly, too). Still had a few minor wrinkles, but too small to worry over.

Thanks for the comments!

This is my LeMans build this year (a group of friends gets together and builds during the race); decided to build whatever I wanted vs. an actual LeMans car. Prepped the model (painted, cleared, chassis built) prior to the race. At the end of the race it still lacked the roll bar, passenger seatbelt, front splitters, antenna, and a few graphics. Decals are by Studio 27, wheels are from my parts box, tires are Pegasus. I used some of the Hobby Design detail set for it as well. Very fun project of a phantom street/track day toy, and I also prepped parts for my next MX5, an RF conversion using the Plamoz detail RF conversion and the Club detail set.

That looks great! Sure wish Revell would give us the GS.

Looks good so far with what you've got. I have never tackled mine simply because I cannot get past the horrific shape issue(s) with the entire front end of the Fujimi LM. There is entirely too much crown to the front end, resulting in comically misshapen headlight buckets that make the whole car look like it's frowning. Once you see it, you cannot un-see it. When I got my kit I compared the kit body to photos of the real car, got seriously depressed, and back into the box it went. I have the first issue LM with the incredible box art. Shamefully what's inside cannot begin to live up to the box art. The amount of work to fix won't be easy to accomplish. I'd love to see someone try.

Wow, very nice attention to detail! Great work.

Have you even thought about asking Paul Fisher if he could replace the body for you?

IMHO at this point your resin body is junk. Replace it or move on. You compromised the material w/alcohol, there's no magic blue pill that's going to stiffen it back up to be useful.

For those with Dick Blick stores locally, they carry these sprays. Haven't tried them; I think they have some unique and changeable nozzles as well for different effects.

There are zero #16 Camaro decals in my early-run Fifty kit.

I think they intended to close on July 1st or 2nd, but their website people were on vacation for July 4th, so I believe they decided to let the website stay up until July 5th at some point when the web people were back. This information was public, so I'm sure that the mega-procrastinators really hit them good on those final days! I already knew they were pretty stressed when I placed my order, I could have ordered several kits and other extra stuff, but honestly looked at what I really needed in terms of restoration parts, and kept it at that. They wanted to retire fully last month...it'll be at least another year if not longer.

Got my final order from May 18th, 2016 on May 20th, 2017. Just a box of restoration parts from a list I made up while their website was down prior to re-opening on May 16, 2016. Unfortunately a convertible windshield frame I ordered was broken in the box, had to have happened when they packed it as the box was completely un-damaged. No problem, I contacted them on the 22nd with a photo of the unfortunate damage, and a perfect replacement arrived today. I'm going to miss them, great people, products and service. I imagine they'll be fulfilling orders for another year or more. I'm pretty sure they probably got a ton of extra orders just on the last week the website was up early last July when they made it clear that it was shutting down for good at that point.

They're even better for those of us that can visit the shop. Best hobby shop in Georgia!

Amazing; one of the coolest models ever! Love it!

Greetings; I like your screen name! Here's my red Miata on the infamous "Tail of the Dragon" :

Sorry to say, Ronnie passed away in 2014.

The height of the windshield/A pillars looks original. What I believe they did was remove/channel material from just below the windshield to the cowl, so the entire windscreen/A pillars were lowered into the body. With the Foose design having perfected proportions, I'll look forward to seeing people build the Foose truck in "what if it was stock" appearance (as well as other custom ideas). The revised proportions and fresh white plastic make for an ideal canvas to work from.

That's because everything is so deftly and subtly done. The roof is raked in front, it looks like the entire windscreen has been lowered. The Foose truck's roof has been altered much in the same way that Moebius inadvertently (?!?) chopped their F100 roof...it's too low, too flat, raked in front where it should be peaked in front. If you were to fix the Moebius roof, you'd basically be doing much the same to take the Foose truck back to stock. Most builders don't seem to notice (or care) how far off the Moebius roof is, where it sticks out like a sore thumb to me for some reason (when built stock at least). The effect on the Foose truck is so natural it looks nearly stock. I love the subtleties of the Foose truck, it's not meant to be a radical custom, but just perfecting the proportions, and I'm looking forward to building one.

The Molotow pen isn't a good replacement for foil around windows. It's best for smaller pieces like door handles, mirrors, dash knobs, and repairs to small areas that might have a void in the foil or where you clipped a chrome part from the sprue. I suspect your main problem may be the use of Bare Metal Foil's "Ultra-Bright" chrome. If that's the case, I suggest trying a sheet of the "New Improved" regular foil. It looks less shiny on the sheet, but it lays down much smoother, has a more in-scale appearance, and it can be polished to a bright sheen with the same compounds used to polish paint. Some people swear by "Ultra-Bright", I just swear at it. I didn't like the appearance, how it cut/trimmed, and the lack of adhesion vs. the regular foil.

Go here and save/print them: 300 SL at Hobby Search

The only cans that I've had this happen are "modern" Testors lacquers. A friend w/a large stock of it has seen many of these failures over time. "Testors, it's always something"...should be their motto for rattlecans None of my Tamiya sprays has done this...yet.

I almost sprung for the Air-Trax Renault Fuego! The model has to be better than the real car, right? Decided the budget had been already blown to smithereens earlier in the day...

Reality is they probably have a BMW 635 CSi being newly tooled for 2018...because Revell GmbH...