Zoom Zoom

The height of the windshield/A pillars looks original. What I believe they did was remove/channel material from just below the windshield to the cowl, so the entire windscreen/A pillars were lowered into the body. With the Foose design having perfected proportions, I'll look forward to seeing people build the Foose truck in "what if it was stock" appearance (as well as other custom ideas). The revised proportions and fresh white plastic make for an ideal canvas to work from.

That's because everything is so deftly and subtly done. The roof is raked in front, it looks like the entire windscreen has been lowered. The Foose truck's roof has been altered much in the same way that Moebius inadvertently (?!?) chopped their F100 roof...it's too low, too flat, raked in front where it should be peaked in front. If you were to fix the Moebius roof, you'd basically be doing much the same to take the Foose truck back to stock. Most builders don't seem to notice (or care) how far off the Moebius roof is, where it sticks out like a sore thumb to me for some reason (when built stock at least). The effect on the Foose truck is so natural it looks nearly stock. I love the subtleties of the Foose truck, it's not meant to be a radical custom, but just perfecting the proportions, and I'm looking forward to building one.

The Molotow pen isn't a good replacement for foil around windows. It's best for smaller pieces like door handles, mirrors, dash knobs, and repairs to small areas that might have a void in the foil or where you clipped a chrome part from the sprue. I suspect your main problem may be the use of Bare Metal Foil's "Ultra-Bright" chrome. If that's the case, I suggest trying a sheet of the "New Improved" regular foil. It looks less shiny on the sheet, but it lays down much smoother, has a more in-scale appearance, and it can be polished to a bright sheen with the same compounds used to polish paint. Some people swear by "Ultra-Bright", I just swear at it. I didn't like the appearance, how it cut/trimmed, and the lack of adhesion vs. the regular foil.

Go here and save/print them: 300 SL at Hobby Search

The only cans that I've had this happen are "modern" Testors lacquers. A friend w/a large stock of it has seen many of these failures over time. "Testors, it's always something"...should be their motto for rattlecans None of my Tamiya sprays has done this...yet.

I almost sprung for the Air-Trax Renault Fuego! The model has to be better than the real car, right? Decided the budget had been already blown to smithereens earlier in the day...

Reality is they probably have a BMW 635 CSi being newly tooled for 2018...because Revell GmbH...

These are a real treat to see in person at the museum, amazing work and it's great that they're being kept as-is as permanently in-progress vs. being built and finished.

Between this and the Hasegawa 2002 tii, it's going to be a great summer!

Superb work all the way through, and happy that you played your hand and "gave away the farm" to document the build. If it inspires just one person to stretch their wings on a similar project, you've succeeded. Congrats on the win, can't wait to see this in person.

I heard through the grapevine that congratulations are in order! Sounds like it was an awesome show yesterday. What's the project for next year?

Correct! When Pat got the model to restore he asked me to do the paint and stripe; he did the rest. Fun project, honored to have been a part of it!

Glad to help! I'm going to spend some time this weekend testing what I can do w/the contents of my 4mm pen running through my airbrush. I want to thin it, I want to see how pieces that are dried react when dipped in Future. Normally I hate Future, but a friend tried it on some bumpers I airbrushed w/Molotow for him and he said it barely made any difference. So I'd like to see how it compares w/Aqua Gloss. Aqua Gloss didn't work that great for me on Spaz Stix chrome recently. It was much better than any other clear I had tried, including Future, but it still wasn't acceptable. Perhaps 40% reduction in reflectivity. I had far better results over Alclad black chrome. Oh, and your model is flat out brilliant! Love it. Can't wait to see it, have a great time at the show tomorrow! Hope you can make it to NNL East.

I'm sure it's a matter of the refills being available for sale in the US; with proper labeling etc. Graff-City Ltd. is in the UK.

For those enjoying the entertainment from the sidelines, Jiffy Pop is junk. Orville Redenbacher is much better.

Incredible; love the color choice! Can't wait to see it in person. Any chance to see this at NNL East? I can't make it to BSAC this year, but will be in Toledo in October.

You have totally lost me with that sentiment.

I agree about the paint finish being the biggest thing that can draw you in or drive you away, but I disagree with the sentiment it has to be full gloss. There are more and more fantastic weathered builds at shows; model car guys are learning and sharing techniques of weathering for realistic in-scale patina. I have a Ferrari from the '50's on the bench and my plan is for a modern basecoat metallic w/clear, but I'm going to modify the clearcoat so it's not the usual "clearcoat, level, polish to high shine" routine, as I want a more subtle authentic appearing in-scale finish. In the past 25-30 years the level of professional-looking finishes displayed by model car builders has gone through the roof. That's a good thing! But does the model have the more subtle details done to add depth of interest to the entire model, not just depth of sheen of the clearcoat?

Trust me Luc, you were on the right path and someday it'll get completed

I've seen a few of the Cutlass models built with sloppy window edges, so I understand that frustration, but I've also seen at least one built by my friend where it was perfectly clean. I far prefer kit glass installed from outside, it allows the glass to fit flush like the real car. When I get a newer model that has the old glass tub style that fits from inside it bugs me, because of potential gaps around pillars and a "sunken" appearance that's out of scale. I build mostly modern cars, but not exclusively. I've got a Modehaus Riviera being built as the Silver Arrow III concept that sits on the perpetual back burner because I haven't figured out exactly how I'm going to do the glass flush like the real car; I just couldn't leave the glass as it came in the kit, it just didn't fit well. I already have modified the C pillar area from vertical to the sweeping design of the concept (seriously GM, why did you put vertical C pillars on the Riviera?), and had to fix the roof profile a bit as well. Thanks to Juha I can't live with "normal" glass on this model Call it a labor of love, seeing that car in person I knew I had to make a model of it. Since I've been dealing with the new style kit glass from Revell & others for awhile, I've easily adapted to it. Looking at the Cutlass, you can hide the glue edges but it requires more exacting application of glue. I go over the outer edges w/a black Sharpie, and depending on era, I go over the inner perimeter of the glass w/the Sharpie as well, to hide the glue and appear like modern glass w/the black inner surround. I use Formula 560 canopy glue which works perfectly for the job. It's just a technique that requires a different approach, I've adapted and love it. It's not as fast to assemble as the old method, but it's better. In the case of the Cutlass, Revell probably should have designed the glass with the trim molded to the edge of the glass rather than on the body, to give a bit more material in the channels below the glass, more space for glue, better chance to hide it cleanly. If executed properly it should be a good compromise. Even Moebius is slowly getting better with this; the Comet is a big improvement over the Plymouths and Pontiacs in this regard.

RX-7 late April.

I don't think anyone makes aftermarket coil packs like you want; you might consider scratchbuilding the black coil pack itself and then casting multiples, then doing the wiring. Kind of surprised they didn't mold the coil packs on the valve covers.

It'll rub off like Aclad. That said, using Alclad's own Aqua Gloss as a sealer/protector works very well, being the only gloss I've ever tried that really doesn't kill the reflective quality. It does get slightly softened. The first time you try one of the pens is eye-opening; this can be applied over any color or surface. It's great for detailing small items. It's not IMHO a replacement for BMF for exterior trim. It is perfect for touching up loose BMF ends or gaps, especially around vent windows, inner door handles, window winders, dash knobs, fixing the damage from clipping a part from the sprue, etc. Eventually I'll try it through the airbrush.

I agree. Steve, it's abundantly clear you mean well and would like to be able to fix the issue and I do appreciate that. But I can't shake the feeling of not being able to see the forest through the trees with this particular forum's performance issue(s); with your resume and experience you should volunteer to work with Dave Ambrose and the hosting company before asking us to chase our tails on common dead-end issues that never seem to get fixed for long periods of time. Ensuring that this forum's software and security is up to date, and the servers/hosting are all up to date should be enough, but we have no clue what is or isn't done behind the scenes. It's not that bad, it's just annoying, especially for those who lose posts that they've written. That hasn't happened to me, but it's clear it's an issue here. In the past this forum got so bad/unstable over time that it took a complete days-long update and reboot of the forum to get it working again. Then, as now, it always seemed an issue with this forum, not other forums or websites.

I'll pretend I didn't hear that...*wink wink, nudge nudge*