Zoom Zoom

For those enjoying the entertainment from the sidelines, Jiffy Pop is junk. Orville Redenbacher is much better.

Incredible; love the color choice! Can't wait to see it in person. Any chance to see this at NNL East? I can't make it to BSAC this year, but will be in Toledo in October.

You have totally lost me with that sentiment.

I agree about the paint finish being the biggest thing that can draw you in or drive you away, but I disagree with the sentiment it has to be full gloss. There are more and more fantastic weathered builds at shows; model car guys are learning and sharing techniques of weathering for realistic in-scale patina. I have a Ferrari from the '50's on the bench and my plan is for a modern basecoat metallic w/clear, but I'm going to modify the clearcoat so it's not the usual "clearcoat, level, polish to high shine" routine, as I want a more subtle authentic appearing in-scale finish. In the past 25-30 years the level of professional-looking finishes displayed by model car builders has gone through the roof. That's a good thing! But does the model have the more subtle details done to add depth of interest to the entire model, not just depth of sheen of the clearcoat?

Trust me Luc, you were on the right path and someday it'll get completed

I've seen a few of the Cutlass models built with sloppy window edges, so I understand that frustration, but I've also seen at least one built by my friend where it was perfectly clean. I far prefer kit glass installed from outside, it allows the glass to fit flush like the real car. When I get a newer model that has the old glass tub style that fits from inside it bugs me, because of potential gaps around pillars and a "sunken" appearance that's out of scale. I build mostly modern cars, but not exclusively. I've got a Modehaus Riviera being built as the Silver Arrow III concept that sits on the perpetual back burner because I haven't figured out exactly how I'm going to do the glass flush like the real car; I just couldn't leave the glass as it came in the kit, it just didn't fit well. I already have modified the C pillar area from vertical to the sweeping design of the concept (seriously GM, why did you put vertical C pillars on the Riviera?), and had to fix the roof profile a bit as well. Thanks to Juha I can't live with "normal" glass on this model Call it a labor of love, seeing that car in person I knew I had to make a model of it. Since I've been dealing with the new style kit glass from Revell & others for awhile, I've easily adapted to it. Looking at the Cutlass, you can hide the glue edges but it requires more exacting application of glue. I go over the outer edges w/a black Sharpie, and depending on era, I go over the inner perimeter of the glass w/the Sharpie as well, to hide the glue and appear like modern glass w/the black inner surround. I use Formula 560 canopy glue which works perfectly for the job. It's just a technique that requires a different approach, I've adapted and love it. It's not as fast to assemble as the old method, but it's better. In the case of the Cutlass, Revell probably should have designed the glass with the trim molded to the edge of the glass rather than on the body, to give a bit more material in the channels below the glass, more space for glue, better chance to hide it cleanly. If executed properly it should be a good compromise. Even Moebius is slowly getting better with this; the Comet is a big improvement over the Plymouths and Pontiacs in this regard.

RX-7 late April.

I don't think anyone makes aftermarket coil packs like you want; you might consider scratchbuilding the black coil pack itself and then casting multiples, then doing the wiring. Kind of surprised they didn't mold the coil packs on the valve covers.

It'll rub off like Aclad. That said, using Alclad's own Aqua Gloss as a sealer/protector works very well, being the only gloss I've ever tried that really doesn't kill the reflective quality. It does get slightly softened. The first time you try one of the pens is eye-opening; this can be applied over any color or surface. It's great for detailing small items. It's not IMHO a replacement for BMF for exterior trim. It is perfect for touching up loose BMF ends or gaps, especially around vent windows, inner door handles, window winders, dash knobs, fixing the damage from clipping a part from the sprue, etc. Eventually I'll try it through the airbrush.

I agree. Steve, it's abundantly clear you mean well and would like to be able to fix the issue and I do appreciate that. But I can't shake the feeling of not being able to see the forest through the trees with this particular forum's performance issue(s); with your resume and experience you should volunteer to work with Dave Ambrose and the hosting company before asking us to chase our tails on common dead-end issues that never seem to get fixed for long periods of time. Ensuring that this forum's software and security is up to date, and the servers/hosting are all up to date should be enough, but we have no clue what is or isn't done behind the scenes. It's not that bad, it's just annoying, especially for those who lose posts that they've written. That hasn't happened to me, but it's clear it's an issue here. In the past this forum got so bad/unstable over time that it took a complete days-long update and reboot of the forum to get it working again. Then, as now, it always seemed an issue with this forum, not other forums or websites.

I'll pretend I didn't hear that...*wink wink, nudge nudge*

Sorry, I just do not believe you or your theory. I'm all over the internet all the time, it's this forum alone w/the consistent issues. And this site isn't worth going through any flaming hoops to deal with. You want my social security number too? Seriously...it's ridiculous to ask anyone for so much information when it is abundantly clear the problem is not on my end.

Ebbro kits I believe are done by someone who was involved at a high level with Tamiya design/engineering in the past, so Ebbro kits are basically as Tamiya-like as one could ask for, without actually being Tamiya kits (aside from the Ebbro 2CV van that uses some Tamiya parts with some new tooled parts by Ebbro). They aren't cheap, but neither are Tamiya kits. You get what you pay for.

In the future, stick with Tamiya primer under Tamiya color. It won't damage the plastic like the Duplicolor did (harsh automotive spray primers are not needed under hobby sprays). That's where it all went wrong. Since the bodies were damaged, even the mild Tamiya sprays might cause some recurrence of the crazing; it's the nature of the beast once the plastic has been compromised. But hopefully you'll be able to salvage the paint jobs with careful, light coats and good drying time in between. Otherwise you might need a sealer in between the Tamiya primer and the color.

Finally! I've been hoping the later version would be offered. I've ridden in a '72 DS19 owned by family friends (back in the day), it was an amazing spaceship for the road, so smooth, quiet, and comfortable. Their only complaint was it was very slow.

I run uBlock Origin, don't see any ads, run Chrome, and this site hangs up frequently. I can open several tabs and they all hang up and after awhile they'll all finally open at the same time. Meanwhile I can go to other pages on other sites and open multiple tabs without issue at the same time tabs from this page are all churning. Today when answering a couple questions here the system churned and churned after I submitted the replies..I copied/pasted the replies just in case of 404 error. Didn't ultimately need to, but I know the problem is on this end, not mine. Asking any more about my computer or system because this forum hangs up at this point is as silly as going to an auto parts store to buy an air freshener and being asked if I have an automatic or manual transmission.

I tested it and overcoated with Aclad Aqua Gloss clear, specifically offered as a sealer for Aclad chrome where it won't kill the reflective effect. It seems to work very well, it barely affects reflectivity, unlike any clear I previously tried (including Future).

It's an older (late 90's era) Suburban 4X4 w/black fender flares and a tailgate vs. the two swing-open rear doors.

It's not just you; if the photo is too wide to fit your browser on this forum it gets a "shrink to fit" treatment so the whole image is visible w/o a scroll bar. There are multiple ways you can temporarily zoom out on the web page so the pics aren't pre-shrunk. I use the Ctrl and minus keys to zoom out, and Ctrl and plus keys to zoom back in afterwards. Or use Ctrl and mouse scroll button. Let's just say that the forum software has a lot of bugs, quirks and glitches and leave it at that.

Nowadays the old 5.0 Monster Miata has been put out to pasture, the hot setups for engine swaps for early Miatas is the GM LS series V8; being 2 valve engines they fit fairly well. Even more interesting from size/weight perspective is an LFX conversion, w/modern GM V6. With the right tune even that V6 (which stock has about 75 more HP than the old 5.0) is going to have a power to weight ratio that will blow your mind...or even that of an old Cobra! The Coyote engine would be interesting, but since it has more modern 4 valve heads, it takes a lot more real estate than the GM LS series.

Too late for me, mine is on the way. I'll deal with it...the NSX I built for review is getting upgraded with the molded mesh replaced, new Plamoz wheels, and a rear spoiler.

I assume no photos of Panamera or the Porsche tractor?

I told Eric when he built it that it's exactly the first 308 I ever saw, exact same color combo. Almost wrecked my Dad's car when I saw it. One of my favorite Ferrari designs ever. For such a dead-simple kit, it's the best looking, best proportioned 308 plastic kit ever. I have one of the Revell AG reissues that I intend to build one of these days when I need a good slump-buster.

The RX7 will be a 2-in-1 this time; full stock and race version all in one box. Definitely looking forward to it! It's not part of the Monogram exotic series; has full detail. I wouldn't be surprised if the Revell Miata gets reissued soon, it's been a long time since it's been out and it's a great kit. Much more detail than the Tamiya kit.

Thanks for sharing, so bummed we had to miss the show this year...