Zoom Zoom

To answer your question, the 1mm is my go-to for fine detail work, it's more of a pen tip and not a felt tip like the 2mm and 4mm. If I want to rechrome a bumper I use the refill and run it through the airbrush. The 1mm is great for mirror faces, door handles, door locks, lug nuts, window cranks, raised dash details. Use it "wet into wet" and you can chrome smaller parts with ease, just make sure to let it dry 24-48 hours and try not to handle too much. It's far stronger than Alclad and it doesn't require any special surface prep or base color. Window/side trim is still far better served by using bare metal foil. The 1mm might be a bit much for fine lettering style emblems; though if you have refill or take the pen apart to access the reservoir, you can use the chrome ink with your tiny detail brushes. It's more like paint than ink when it comes to brushing or spraying.

.030" half round is what I use.

Excellent advice; I've been told Tamiya developed their lacquer thinner specifically for their acrylics so they would spray and lay down on the surface like traditional solvent-based paints. Mr. Thinner/Mr. Leveling Thinner can be used for the same jobs as Tamiya lacquer thinner. I use Mr. Thinner products all the time to thin decanted paints and when shooting flat acrylics I use on interiors, and thinning Mr. Hobby solvent-based bottle paints. X-20A just for occasional panel line washes.

I don't know "a" Bill Stillwagon, I know "the" Bill Stillwagon. Incredible, talented modeler, and a really nice guy too. And he's been known to go to the CKM show in Clemmons, NC in August where you can meet him and see his models up close and personal.

Glad to hear they have addressed the droopy front end issue; wonder how much new tooling is involved? Really happy they didn't gloss over the misshapen front end on the Boss.

It's Revell. I seriously doubt they'll fix it. And if not...no sale. It literally ruins the entire model having such a disfigured face. *Edit* : Glad to hear they have likely fixed the shape issues. Great news!

Amazing and inspiring; such a beautiful car to begin with and you've done it proud with the upgrade.

Word of warning! I restocked late last year U-Pol Power Can Clear and it resulted in 3 failed clearcoats. It cracks...badly...over time, unlike the previous cans I used. A friend had the same bad results. He got some of the pricey UV-resistant stuff and it hasn't cracked. I've since reverted to mixing Gunze solvent-based clear and have been given an old can of U-Pol clear by a friend who likes using Gravity Colors clears.

Revell was not at Atlanta last year and won't be there this year. Looks to me like the only shows the "big 3" will be attending w/any regularity will be the NNL in Detroit and NNL East. Toledo vendor area was way too quiet this year.

The problem w/the car is it uses the aforementioned Coronet doors/side glass, but Barracuda front and rear glass intended for a far lower roofline. It really spoils the appearance. If it were a true factory concept, they wouldn't have cheaped out on the glass...it would either have the front/rear glass made bigger, or the side glass/frames chopped...which would have been preferable. As-is it's awkward at best.

I can't wait, love these 1st gen Civics. I see the interior bucket is yet another one that's going to be a big letdown compared to the rest of the kit, at least when it comes to side panels.

Beautiful work, the base model is good but you took it exactly where it belongs!

I only use it for filling areas no deeper than a scratch and it dries amazingly fast. You've got either a chemical reaction to the surface applied to, or applied it too thick, or perhaps both.

For airbrushing you can use either one for your Tamiya acrylics. The lacquer thinner was developed later primarily to make their acrylics spray more like lacquers. It will also help gloss acrylics dry somewhat faster. If you ever decant Tamiya spray cans for use in the airbrush, use the lacquer thinner to thin it a bit more.

Nice job, I've built 4 of those rotten Fujimi short tail F1's including the LM...seriously flawed kits, but looks like I made the right choice building them since it seems Aoshima gave up after the odd longtail they did.

Nice work!

That was Academy, who are owned by the same folks as Italeri, I believe. The kits aren't knockoffs, they're just marketed to the Korean market as generic to get around Ferrari licensing which is a monster pain in the backside for just about any company outside of Tamiya and Fujimi. Notice how Revell doesn't have a single Ferrari anymore?

No tooling ended up in China, they're simply poor knockoff copies of a Tamiya original. They are lousy kits by comparison, and $10 isn't a deal, unless you like ragged mold lines, poorly printed stickers instead of metal transfers, etc. I've seen some of these kits up close, and having built and bought the Tamiya versions, I can tell a lousy copy from the original with ease. I can find Tamiya originals for about $15, no question of value by comparison. The closeup of the engine intake? Horrible quality! The Tamiya engines in these are magnificent, they are so well molded they practically hold themselves together w/just the pins & receivers, and surface quality is perfect. Not on that lousy copy!! There are a few Tamiya kits copied, but it's been many years ago and isn't even close to a common occurence.

Ditto. I never look at mobile site, but tried it just now. Have no idea why some people referred to me by the name of the town I live in, since neither show on Safari on my phone.

I figured that must be the case; I never view this forum on my phone.

Bob Downie. It's in my signature under every post. You have signatures turned off?

Yeah, it's about time to have this one back!

My name isn't Tucker, unless yours is Minneapolis

That used to bug me too. Not any more; I realize the RHD models I have built never "call attention" to their driving position. I also see many Japanese-market cars at our local car shows now that the 25 year rule is in effect, allowing importation of cars never seen here before. It's pretty cool. I have no problem w/the Civic being RHD, but if you study the actual dash design, it won't be that hard to convert...if the aftermarket doesn't accommodate.

If you read the first post, Jonathan referenced the 2002 tii version that is already out. I believe he's also shared photos of it under construction and finished. 2002 tii kit