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Wow, I'll have to get some of that, thanks for sharing! I think you may have mentioned it in person when I saw the model, but having CRS and now having the link and having seen the results first-hand, I'm sold!

From the videos this looks somewhat better executed than the Azera/Grandeur that was good but suffered from terribly weak panel lines and 4X4 stance if built OOB. I think I spend about 7 hours rescribing panel lines on my Grandeur and I ditched the kit wheels/tires for extras from a Revell kiddie Mustang kit. And still ended up with a rather boring model LOL. I'll get the Santa Fe when it comes out.

What is most unsettling about the forum software is the fact that when I view the forum contents in "unread" order is seeing occasional private messages sent from one person to another in the list. That's a bug that makes me think everyone here needs to be painfully aware that your private messages may not be all that private. Three examples below of screen shots I took of this forum glitch.

Interesting! I don't think the one w/the Welly logo is actually a Welly, it looks identical to the Maisto. My Welly GT3 RS models have side glass in the doors and are a lot nicer than any similar-scale Maisto. I really hope there's no collaboration between Maisto and Welly, because if this subject is perhaps just that, it's dumbed-down/cost-reduced and not as nice as the usual Welly standards. If however someone selling on Ebay used the Maisto model as a "place setter" photo for an actual Welly GT2 RS that may be forthcoming, it would be great news! Time will tell, I guess.

Welly has been doing promos for Porsche in recent years, after a certain amount of time they become available through NEX/Welly and not just Porsche museums & dealerships. US dealers don't seem to get 1/24 stuff, mostly 1/18, 1/43, 1/64th scale. I wish they'd do more modern stuff like the GT2 RS, Cayman GT4, Panamera Sport Turismo, and the new 911's. Recently refinished their 2016 GT3 RS in Rubystone red, doing another soon in yellow w/side stripes. That one took a year or two to go from a promo in a special box to regular distribution.

Sadly true. And sadly no model of the 2nd gen Brat which IMHO looks 1000% better. Won't stop me from building another '79, but 13 years ago (!!!) when I was looking for inspiration for my 1st gen STi build I realized how much cooler it could have/would have been w/the 2nd gen design.

My sister luckily escaped w/o damage and power only flickered briefly, but she's only 2-3 blocks north of the devastation in the Trotwood area, even some major tree damage on the south end of her street. She had no idea how bad it was, I told her last night after midnight after seeing news and looking at Google Maps traffic data which pretty clearly shows the path of destruction from Brookville through Beaver Creek. She did say she could hear sirens in the distance and had a second tornado warning while we were messaging just after midnight. From pics/videos I've seen, areas I'm familiar with will look a lot different next time I visit.

It's listed as a future release on a major distributor's website as of May 9th. AMT kit 1/25 scale. Release date TBD.

I plan to build a BRG and '93 LE someday, as well as finish the model I started of my own '96. The guy that bought mine has finished his model of it. I wish someone would do the Chaparral wheels that I had on mine, none of the various Panasport or similar wheels in scale are right. I'd love to take Aoshima NB and make a Mazdaspeed. Lava Orange would be the color for sure! Here's when I had both cars for about 3 months: Here it is w/the new owner, he ditched the rear mud flaps and had Koni yellows installed so it sits a lot better now. It currently has a red OEM hardtop. Original soft top is still good but the rear window is shot: One of my best photos of my NC was when a couple buddies and I hit the Dragon on a Tuesday afternoon in July a couple years ago, we made the Killboy highlights. We thought it might happen w/the trio of True Red NC's and they always let me drive in front LOL. On our way back south on the Dragon we came up on a pristine stock early NSX driven pretty well but he let us pass as we were going faster. We saw the grins on their faces on Killboy's photos that evening, they were enjoying riding at the back of our little red pack. As for driving the NC, I hated the looks with a passion when new. Now I love them, but they have to be lowered. I did new suspension which made a world of difference and bought NC2 used wheels from Goodwin Racing. My original OEM bumpstops have now failed 30k miles after suspension mods so I will upgrade the springs (again) to Progress Technologies & use FatCat poly bump stops. But first time I drove an NC was eye-opening, they had really improved the Miata dramatically, much stiffer structure, much more power, and the top operation is stupid-easy up or down from the driver's seat and when stowed it makes it's own tonneau cover. I have an ECU tune and new exhaust, so it's pretty quick, and it gets better fuel economy than my NA did (with about 40 more HP). Eventually I'll get a 2019-newer ND. Only have driven one ND a 2016 GT manual, didn't notice power increase on the short drive, driving position is better, and it leans a lot compared to my NC's upgrade. They are really nice. A friend is getting an orange 30th soon, trading in his 2018 ND Club w/Brembo package that replaced his beloved NC Club that was T-boned by an inattentive driver. He told me last week "the NC is a better daily driver, the ND is better for performance driving".

Great project; I believe the best NA model would be a mash-up combining Revell's running gear (engine, chassis) with the Tamiya Eunos Roadster or Miata kit. I like the Eunos variant as it's always been available, is molded in white, and has the hardtop (which IIRC is not in the molded-in-red Miata version). I had a white '96 NA8 for 14 years, sold it to one of my best friends in 2013 and it's still going strong and essentially the best car I have ever owned. Currently have '06 NC. Have built models of neither...it's just more fun to jump in and drive But I plan to build them...someday.

French billionaires have reportedly already pledged nearly 400 billion euros to rebuild/restore after the fire.

One thing to remember is the Aoshima MGB's were engineered w/the raised ride height of the rubber-bumper generation. Not terribly difficult to lower the model to the previous ride height which would also look much better on the rubber-bumper cars. I still have several of the early-production MGB kits including the race version w/the racing wheels and HT, not sure I want to shell out the $ for the new version just to get the late model styled wheels. Maybe someone like USCP will clone them and resin cast them as I do not need another box full of parts I'll never use. I can wait, not like I don't have a billion other projects/ideas cluttering both mind and basement space

My sentence is confusing, it was a generalizing of Welly models being better than their competition, they don't do any Ferraris. If they did, they'd be a lot better than Burago for certain.

For a 250 GTO in 1/24 I don't find any diecast that satisfies like the more modern Welly diecast. Best 1/24 GTO belongs to the Fujimi plastic kit in the affordable category, and MFH for a high-roller budget.

Personally I'm flattered someone thought my Eldorado was Juha's, even knowing full well it can't hold a candle to Juha's work...not that I ever intended for it. It was just a broken old promo that I had fun bringing back to life as a cool curbside. One of the cracks re-appeared on the decklid next to the right side taillight...small evidence of what I started with.

Now that I see the images on my laptop I think the cool custom green Chrysler 300 may be Steve Milberry's work and the blue/white '62 Cutlass doesn't look like Juha's either. I have one of the resin custom '46 (?) Fords that Juha mastered for R&MoMD to build someday. Here are a couple recent photos of my '71 Eldorado promo that I rescued from very damaged condition, it was brittle from sun damage, missing an A pillar and had terribly yellow glass when I resurrected it:

I love Juha's models, was great to meet him a couple years ago. While I'm honored you slipped a photo of my silver '71 Eldorado restored promo as an example of Juha's work (because someday when I grow up I'd like to have half his talent), the Eldorado is my work. If I hadn't been lazy and added a side mirror...that's one clue LOL.

Easy answer; my Flashback II. Start w/a Camaro, add a Challenger front end and Mustang rear end and enjoy the mayhem at Caffeine & Octane every month! It was funny enough reading the comments when the first one I built went viral on car blogs almost 10 years ago. 90% of people wouldn't give it a second glance.

Steve Goldman brought it to the show. He also had the 4x4, might have mixed up the forms.

Nothing to stand out? Electric powertrain. Nearly 1900 HP. "Expect a sub-two-second zero-to-60-mph time, zero to 186 mph in less than 12 seconds, and a top speed of around 217 mph. The company also says it is targeting a range of 280 miles". 150 will be made. Looks pretty good to me, if slightly skewed towards exotic $500k cars vs. $1m-3m hypercars. Sure looks better than the Tesla roadster coming out that looks pretty boring.

I use Google Chrome as my browser and it will automatically translate the page from a prompt in the upper right corner of the page. Very handy!

Revell did a full-detail 1/24 575 SA and it's a pretty good kit, mix & match w/the Fujimi 550... I did the exact same thing! I did build my Fujimi 550, and used the Burago 550's seats, so it wasn't a complete waste...they were much better than the blocky Fujimi seats.

Adding Alclad gold to their chrome likely won't work. The chrome metal particles are a much finer grind than the gold, it gets reflective look by how each molecule lays down flat on a surface and reflects light. The gold is just regular gold flake, it won't have any reflective quality, the metal pigment doesn't work the same way the chrome does because it lays down in more 3D particles. That's why I suggested using clear yellow (or perhaps orange, or a mixture with orange, or perhaps smoke) to fine-tune the tint/look of the chrome to more of a gold appearance.

I doubt I used any thinner, the chrome is very thin itself and goes on in very thin coats. Their gold doesn't have the plated/reflective qualities that the chrome does. Aren't the Nazca kit windows molded in smoke tint? You might want to try a test by replicating the smoke tint on spare kit glass using one of the transparent smoke colors. First see how the Alclad Chrome looks under the smoke tint. If it's still not gold enough, apply a thin layer of transparent yellow to the glass on the outside. Or try it inside the glass before applying the Alclad. It might get you a lot closer.

That's where Alclad Chrome works. These old photos are grainy and it looks perfect in person, but since Spaz Stix mirror chrome (similar to Alclad but will stick to a black lacquer base) was intended to be shot inside of clear R/C bodies, I tried Alclad II chrome inside this Kaminari Celica's windows. It looks great in person. Just shoot it through an airbrush in a couple light coats, followed by some smoke tint. You can get a nice fade too.