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Cool pics! Thanks for sharing. Did the circuit back in 2000; Blackhawk Museum on Thursday, Concorso Italiano on Friday, Monterey Historics on Saturday, and Pebble Beach on Sunday. Sat down on the grass for lunch and Ben Stein sat down next to me. My friend who was with me doesn't own a TV, didn't have a clue who he was

Your approach is simpler, however just like a real car, the repaired/repainted panel would not match the others. Especially on a silver car...even using the same paint is no guarantee. There's a reason painters blend panels so your eye doesn't see the color change so easily right on a panel line. Saw a brand new Infiniti G37 coupe yesterday in silver...and the poor car had a passenger door that was a shade darker than the front/rear fenders. Stood out like a sore thumb, especially on such a new car.

There is no full-detail R34 kit. They're all curbside. Tamiya R32 has an engine if you want to do a conversion. There was an Ebbro diecast R34 model that's nice, and fully detailed, opening hood, doors, etc. Much more detail than any of the kits. Diecast full detail R34

Overall it's a decent kit, but could stand improvement. Norm @ Replicas & Miniatures makes a number of parts that will improve this kit. Tires are also an issue, they're not really very nice. Wheels are okay, there are aftermarket P/E wire wheels that will look better.

Looks great, and love the ride height

The current Revell/Germany issue is a reissued Protar GTO. It's a nice kit. Here's Dave Thibodeau's incredible GTO built from this kit The new Fujimi kit is a better kit overall, due to modern tooling, but the engine is simplified to some extent. It's the best looking GTO, especially out of the box. The Protar/Revell version out now is a bit weird looking, based on a rebodied GTO that was rebuilt after a wreck, the kit is accurate for that one car, but the rear fenders and tail end are a little off from the rest of the GTO's. Gunze made a couple GTO's (simple version and a multimedia kit), Aurora made one that was reissued by Monogram (and perhaps Revell Germany at one time), Italeri made one that was also reboxed by Testors. Several resin kits are out there too.

To answer J Smith: There's no telling how long it will take. It could take an hour, it could take days. Put the lid on very loose, or leave it open for awhile in a safe area. Here's a novel idea for everyone to consider: Only decant what you need for a project right now. There is no need to do it all at once; I've been shooting a lot of projects lately w/decanted sprays. The spray can is a great storage device and it's completely reusable. Just spray what you need into an open container (use a straw to direct the contents into the container, I use mixing cups), let it sit for a few minutes to let the propellant dissipate (stir it to see), add a few drops of thinner (optional, depends on how smooth it flows) and then airbrush. It doesn't take long spraying decanted paint to get a good idea of how much paint you'll need for a session. Run out? Decant a little more. Put the can away for the next time. I'd rather do this than worry over it drying up in a new container....or worse, having to deal with the worry over capping any propellant. My spray can is still completely usable as designed. Poking holes in spray cans is very risky & completely unnecessary (unless the task is to retrieve paint from a can that the nozzle no longer works, as in no more air pressure). You can go to the hardware store and spend about 15 bucks and have a really neat Rube Goldberg contraption that carefully pokes a hole in the can to decant via a vinyl tube. All the Monster Garage and Mr. Wizard fans love it. They are convinced that they've accomplished something really incredible & fascinating, so maybe the 15 bucks can be considered a viable entertainment expense. I think it's a clever idea to throw away a perfectly good $15.00 ruining a perfectly good can of paint A pack of straws costs about $1...that's if you want a relatively clean and mess-free decanting session. Otherwise one can spray straight into a cup (I think Mr. Obsessive uses conical water cups) and deal w/a little bit of splash/spray...still a lot safer than poking a hole in a spray can! These threads are always entertaining Here's my KISS method explained with photos: Easy Decanting

Sounds like you are in one of those "rock and a hard place" situations. Considering the putty work on the rest of the model, you could face plenty of issues of any stripper attacking your bodywork in other areas. I would avoid "spot stripping" as any stripper left over could cause problems. If this were mine, I'd be getting my sandpapers and small sanding blocks ready and repair the damage that way, and then spot prime the repairs, scuff the remaining silver, and reshoot the silver over the entire car (you won't need much to cover what's on there now, you'll be doing more of a blend). When block sanding you may find you need a couple spots of putty (like the area down to the primer at the base of the C pillar, to make it smooth/blend w/the rest of the work). It may take some time, but likely less time than starting from scratch from stripping all your paint/primer and damaging the putty. Very recently I've had to do spot repairs, they are frustrating, and one instance I had to give up and start w/a fresh body (new model, no loss of custom bodywork). I try to do everything to avoid stripping paint, and even though your model looks a bit messy, it might work out okay. You'll find out quickly if the sanding is going to work or not. Just remember all the time you spent on the main part of the body...you'll have to do a ton of work there again if you have to strip everything.

Yikes...it's a mess . Considering your bodywork, you really should do what it takes to get it properly fixed. You either need to strip, or spend a lot of time sanding all the edges smooth...it will be easiest to repaint the whole model than try a spot repair. Did you airbrush or use the spray cans? I agree with Steve; I never spray headliners...if I did, I'd do it first and mask it to protect it from the body color, not the other way around...way too much chance of a disaster just like this. Headliners are so "not visible" that nobody can tell if you've brush painted it with acrylic.

Interesting to watch the replies on this one. It started out with a large majority voting "real", but as people have commented that lead has evaporated to a majority of "model".

A photo would be of great help. What kind of trim paint? What kind of silver? In general, I use acrylic paints for trim painting. That way if there's a screw up, it can be removed w/o affecting the body color (which is generally lacquer). Tamiya acrylics can be cleaned up with Windex. For that reason alone that is what I'd recommend for trim painting. I've done spot repairs many times w/an airbrush. It all depends on the color and the area needing respray. Silver is a tricky color to match, you have to do a body shop style blend. W/o a photo it's hard to say where you'll need to spray, or if you'll need to redo the whole thing.

I think he only sells via Ebay.

Oklahoma City Hobby Shops

Thanks Steve, I'll be getting at least a couple of these kits. Sounds like Lindberg is doing a great job on making it cover a lot of bases.

The black Fairlane I showed was painted w/wet clear over wet black (I always shoot clear immediately after color, in fact often I add clear to the last coats of color), the clear got slightly cloudy and it didn't come out as the body dried in the dehydrator. If humidity is a bit high beware. The black was spectacular before the clear. Still came out good, but a lot of experts through the years have claimed that for the deepest, darkest black do not clearcoat. Now I have a great example of it. Years ago I sprayed a resin model w/automotive black & automotive clear. I buffed through the clear in a few places. Guess what? The black that came through was nicer than the rest of the paint under the clear (and the clear was quite smooth). After my recent experience w/Tamiya clear over Tamiya black, I'm convinced. On nearly any other color it won't matter.

Hobby lacquers (Tamiya/Testors) use solvents that don't eat plastic. Therefore no need for primer as a barrier. If you use auto lacquer, you'll need primer...more paint thickness, likely not nearly as smooth a base for the black (unless you spend the time to wetsand the primer thoroughly to a baby-smooth surface w/o an texture), more work overall. Tamiya paints are simple to use, why use auto paint for a standard color like black, white, red? Save auto paints for colors you can't get in hobby form. Considering the high quality of Tamiya paints, they're worth the extra cost because they are less work overall. I've used all the hobby blacks and I've used a lot of auto paints, airbrushed & from the spray can. Trust me, Tamiya TS 14 black is the best way to a great finish with a minimum of hassles and prep/finishing time. It's a pure black (makes Testors look like a dark brownish-gray).

Use Tamiya TS 14 black. It's excellent, goes on smooth and in thin layers, Tamiya sprays in a finer mist than Testors. I would also recommend using micromesh or similar to sand/polish out all the mold lines as smooth as possible, and shoot the black directly on the plastic w/o primer. If you can decant/airbrush it will be even better. And if you want the deepest black, do not use clear. Even Tamiya clear can get a small amount of humidity "blush" in it that will show over the black, unless you spray in very arid conditions. Yes, black requires a very smooth base, and a lot of polishing afterwards if the paint isn't already glass smooth (that's why I recommend not using primer unless you polish it smooth). It's easy to fix mistakes. Tamiya's own compounds work great, and you can use a combination of Meguiars cleaner/wax and some of their quick detailer to help detail it, and use the softest, cleanest polishing rags you can imagine. This is Tamiya black, not clearcoated, it's as close to a perfect paintjob I've done: This is Tamiya TS 14 black clearcoated w/TS 13 clear. It got a slightly cloudy look on the roof/decklid from the final coats of clear (slightly humid conditions when I sprayed it). It was a deeper black w/o the clear. Lesson learned! Just use enough black so you don't polish through it.

I could have told Schumacher that racing F1 these days is a big pain in the neck and totally not worth it.

Harold Bradford/Historic Racing Miniatures makes the full transkit; scroll down a bit and you'll find it. HRM page from Strada Sports The basic curbside 330 kit is quite decent. It will take extra detailing quite nicely. Here's the one I built during the 24 hours of LeMans: Ferrari 412P NART LeMans Racer (based on Fujimi 330 P3 kit)

Here's the thread: Eric Cole's '70 Trans Am It's one of the most sanitary and correct-looking T/A's you'll find. He fixed the drip rail area shape so it doesn't look so flat, one of the only body issues with the kit.

Very, very nice model

Interesting, I look forward to seeing it. Not that I'd buy an expensive English white metal model...those tend to scare me off more than anything but I would like to see it. Same company that did the MGB & GT? Those were plenty scary models

T/A blue decals have never been printed correctly. There's a fine black fade into metallic blue. Eric Cole carefully masked the decals on the sheet of the latest Monogram (Revell) reissue, and sprayed them lightly w/some Tamiya metallic blue, and matched that color w/the shaker. I'm not sure if he decanted and shot w/an airbrush or not. Anyway, as a rule modelers will just have to match the shaker as close as possible to the decals, and be prepared to mix paint to match or live w/a mismatch, unless one of the standard colors just so happens to closely match the decals. On the real car the blue is metallic. MPC, Monogram, and Cady all used solid non-metallic blues.

Mega Millions rolled over last night with no winner, but don't cry over it. The auction for the model collection only received an offer of 23.4% of the asking price. So much for the windfall someone expected over the collection. Caveat Emptor! Even winning stupid $$ in the lottery would make it crazy to pay 4X what something is really worth. Doesn't matter if it's model cars, baseball cards, a real car, a house, or a blender. The Big Collection That Didn't Sell

Those are way cool models and very well done. Nice work