Ace-Garageguy

It depends entirely on what works consistently well for you. I shoot primer on pretty much everything, because I usually end up doing work that will require a slight primer fill on every single part...like scraping parting lines, sanding and filling sink marks, etc. And because I also inevitably do at least minimal bodywork, and because I painted real cars for years, and because I need maximum adhesion when I invariably wetsand and polish, I prime bodies as a matter of course. But that's just what works for me.

Same here, and I really didn't want a wireless mouse for a variety of reasons...but I was in the middle of a project and HAD to have something immediately. Got a cheap Logitech M187, expecting little, and it's been brilliant. Only time it ever started acting up, kinda similar to your issues, was after a year when the battery was going away. New batt, no problem. Batteries DO go bad while in storage, or on the shelf, even the good ones, and even though the expiration date on the package may have years to run. Try a known good battery first, go from there.

Isn't that the kit you started with over here?

1) Never hit an animal, no matter how strong the motivation. All it does is create a fearful, hand-shy personality. 2) Someone mentioned stern voice commands. Stern is the key. LOUD. Shouting can actually work well, as dogs have acute hearing and don't like loud, particularly when it's unexpected. Shouting works with cats too. 3) In extreme cases, some animal trainers recommend using a squirt gun to "correct" behavior, but only if you can squirt the animal when it's doing what you don't want it to do. I had a male unfixed cat that would spray in the house occasionally. After a few squirts that he never really associated with ME, he quit doing it inside. 4) Talking to animals, or punishment after the fact, doesn't work at all in my experience. They don't understand human speech (though they do respond to tone and volume), they don't reason abstractly (that's not real common among most human's abilities either), and they don't associate punishment with unwanted behavior if it's not given at the time the infraction occurs. 5) Kindness is great, but kindness doesn't always beget kindness...a truism with people too. The cat I have now, raised from an abandoned 3-week-old kitten, used to bite and claw during play, just as if I was another cat. It was cute when he was little, but now he's a big strong tom, and he can hurt you. He's responded very well to shouting when he occasionally forgets himself, and is still very affectionate without constantly opening up my hands and ankles...but any kind of rough play brings out his natural aggression, and his claws. It's necessary for ME to make allowances for HIS innate makeup. 6) Different animals have different personalities, from birth, just as humans do. My last cat had a hardwired compassion circuit. Though she was an accomplished fighter and dominated the cats in the neighborhood, she seemed to understand that putting her claws out while playing with PEOPLE would hurt them. She never did. She was also very careful about how hard she'd bite...never enough to break the skin...except once when I accidentally stepped on her tail. She deserved, and got, a pass for that one.

That's a possibility, and I considered it, but because of the rarity of the old Revellogram '40 pickup on my shelves at the time, I opted to rework the '37 truck cab rather than cutting up something I wanted for something else. There are a few other reasons I preferred starting with the '37, including some aspects of the firewall design.

Good info. That's about the size of a 1/25 car. One of our paint suppliers used to give me all I wanted, but with cost trimming everywhere, no more.

As Casey posted above, lotsa the rulebooks are right here on this very site. Scroll halfway down the page below for PDF downloads:

OMG!!! OMG!!! Here's one for ONLY $40, and $9.85 shipping. Better snap it up!!! You can sell it for AT LEAST $25. https://www.ebay.com/itm/194489556766?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2d487b1f1e:g:qukAAOSwqj9hhHih&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSd3M8ngECaRA0SmyU4KT%2FnpZ9ohxi%2FZgfnrY9Ir6lmJwo8hkw6r0ioZcM%2FhOGuZM8R5GF%2FFincWhd%2BfRAwYkdWBO29YkMz04AzN4W0kVTrZYhD9%2FFzjLgUdcIVFh6vVTi5VZq2sWRr2RSRfsCEirCmIEznUbLmkHINWl3Xzv3LWp5V4AP6G4YJZ6oe7MJJBnChgRW5tZDRX6ad%2FU90e4GoHFMBWA%2BbN3PfxKXd48R0NYrBKwy272kY4no2i2fTLUaOoWpPWxK5M5fIByByD9gx0H8flJ2U5LDRqO1IgHqmHNea2odRs%2Fb%2BxxxOeS8p%2BqXfXZj7Wxf5xa8aWgB8t4kJZmGwlYD9F7u5SwmgiA1oTsuASfe8cPLvAKdqwj0%2BQQCe8ahyBrw4IgX9OX8nbRS7urcixCLvIRvQmEUzGYhLFjbpErUkWSWlvKTlNZo8cTq4%2BQCZGzY%2BNJmW7%2B%2FZNn7sFL6XKtQ3vLiwEgdUxHuHocsG2lH0t23s2haOHx4uK%2Bj7%2Fpzo1VW2QEKpf94WsuQ2xYE2Dk2VZ40F2j4X5iqlMwu1cVoxpi9j9A5mUj7aFHs%2Bv7o9wTTxnEdnoKBdhHHWYMD%2FSnffWPXS2nskaMzN1fEXH9XFs3bi07HycMytYylv5uj7gmwDLLdqK5AkWSnDRw7SXKCP%2BSeZc0NA4piLlsE%2BUwBR%2BrFKFAxkSrkF0Lpu%2F6w%2BdrIqiubZ1MJJ%2Bjgd0k2UiQnFg%2FrGlkEXSxGRkHZwRDqa31eXtse7aQFWDisXyOhHdyECLuCqfjrXCDBx6C7%2B%2BTPZdnoqobUvLyXWnfXPve822jZMh5O%2Fbd5xx0l|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBMvq-9qdZf

Here's a little more info. The Revell '32 Ford frames are WAY better than most of the AMT early kit offerings. The main problem if you're building a period rod is that the Revell frames are set up for coil springs and a '57 and later Ford 9" rear end. Most early rods and stockers used a transverse leaf or "buggy" spring. Converting the Revell frames to the earlier configuration isn't particularly difficult, but it does take some careful work, measuring, and research and thought about what you're trying to accomplish. Pages 3 and 4 of this thread show the steps involved to rework the Revell frames to take an A or T rear buggy spring, in order to accommodate a quick-change rear end. Modifying the frame to take stock '32 rear suspension is similar. If you want to build a more recent style rod on '32 rails, with independent front suspension, the AMT Phantom Vickie is an excellent starting point.

One of those things I got interested in because of this forum. Saw a guy here who was dabbling in making resin copies of a 1/25 scale diecast International, found one, and started looking for interesting things to turn it in to.

NICE work. And most definitely thanks from me too.

EDIT: SORRY FOLKS. LINKS KILLED BY FAKEBOOK.

Yeah, if you care about the quality of the outcome, working carefully is almost always faster than rushing a job and ending up needing to do everything over again. I've had a really hard time getting that point across to a number of employers and employees over the years.

Brian makes a good point. Exactly what you want to build will be the determining factor as to which one is "best". The better kit-sourced '32 frames are for the most part set up for more modern running gear. If you want to build one stock, or an earlier-style hot rod, there are a fair number of hoops to jump through. Seems there used to be a cast metal stock frame, but I haven't come across one in at least a decade. I want to say that Replicas and Miniatures had one too, but I could very well be wrong on that.

Of that I'm not sure. But I know for a fact that mine respond to the occasional word of kindness and appreciation.

That right there should have been enough to cease operations.

I did pretty much as you appear to be doing in the photo, placed blocks or piles of washers under corners, and using a small, very light bubble level, fiddled everything until it was square. Exactly. Making the effort to get the frame dead on in these big scales is definitely worth the effort, as a little off at any point will bite you in the backside when you try to get the hood to fit the body and the radiator shell tightly...just like building a real one. If I recall correctly, there are some slight symmetry issues with this body, and getting your frame square and level just eliminates one variable you'll have to deal with when you try to get all the body parts lined up nice.

You may, of course, have to do some minor fitting and juggling to get everything dialed in dead-on, but that's just part of the game. It's been several years since I worked on my chopped '38 conversion (based on the '37 truck), but I tried the '37 car frames under it, looking for alternatives as you are, and was kinda surprised how close and doable they would swap...especially considering the supposed scale difference. Sometimes the less-than-perfect scaling manufacturers give us works to our advantage. At the time, I also had an AMT chopped '36 ford on the bench, and I'd already tried the Revellogram '37 car frames under it, found they'd fit, and had mocked everything up in final position with the non-independent-suspension version. The point of using the Revellogram frame under the AMT body was to get a better represented X-member and some other particulars for a highly detailed replica of a specific car, a gift for a friend. It worked out very well, but I don't remember in detail exactly what mods had to be made. What you're doing looks great so far, and I certainly applaud your effort and thought in wanting to build a model that represents reality.

Somebody seems to be missing the point entirely. EDIT: I don't mean to be unkind, but what do kiddie-cars have to do with the beautifully crafted one-of-a-kind objects of mechanical art this thread was started about?

For the most part, that simply means the model sits too high or too low, compared to a real one. In this case, it's probably too high. Easy to fix.

You can also get clear and colored acetate and styrene file folders at office-supply stores. Great for doing tinted windows in race-cars, etc.

I posted this above: "'35-'40 Ford car and '35-'41 pickup chassis are all pretty much identical." To clarify...all those light truck and car frames are the same except for minor details. Car frames in those years are the same as light truck frames. So yes, you can use a car frame under a pickup (I've done it in reality when the original truck frame was too rusty and weak to bother with repairing...everything bolts on). And the supposed 1/24 car frames above fit the supposed 1/25 truck just fine. EDIT: And just FYI, those frames fit under AMT '36 and '40 Fords too.

GOOD LOOKING rod. Very nice. EDIT: Something about yours I like better than the real one...I think it's mostly the curvature of the roof. The real car looks to me like the metal man maybe shrunk the roof at the edges during welding the filler panel in, and didn't take the additional time to stretch it back out. It's just too damm flat. That tends to happen frequently when closing up the big ol' gaping hole these start with. EDIT TOO: And your bobbed frame rails look better.

Dimensionally challenged? Spatially minimized? Volumetrically marginalized? EDIT: How 'bout jus' itty-bitty-tee-niney-small?