Ace-Garageguy

Mr. Cunningham did all the CAD work on those himself, starting from scratch. I'll ask if the files will be available.

Indeed. This is from about 200BC:

Excellent point, especially in light of the fact that the huge transformers used in the power distribution grid are not widely stockpiled, in many cases take a 6-month or more lead time from order to delivery, and are in large part MADE IN CHINA.

Yes, Toyota has made significant progress into solving the problems with hydrogen-fueled IC engines. They have expressed their idea that it's just stupid to abandon the IC engine, with 100+ years of cumulative knowledge concerning the powerplants. Another part of the motivation is protecting jobs of a significant sector of Japan's domestic workforce. Honda has also done much work on gaseous-fueled IC engines, with their natural-gas-powered IC vehicles in California being among the "cleanest" on the planet. And a European manufacturer has developed a hydrogen-burning truck/bus diesel engine that achieves power, torque, and fuel economy competitive with oil-burners. Again, this is not to say that electrics have no place in a rational surface propulsion mix. Electrics are a good solution for lots of vehicle users. But banking 100% on electrics is moronic.

You're very welcome.

In the only Revellogram 427 Cobra I still have here... ...the oil pan, though incorrectly modeled, represents a steel wet-sump pan, probably built by Aviaid. The bungs on the end of the pan could conceivably be used as scavenge ports for a dry-sump application too. EDIT: Though in practice, I don't know if it was ever done. EDIT 2: The "real" dry sump pan is an entirely different animal, with a dedicated front cover:

Surely one of the best looking cars ever built, and your model does it justice. Great work on that pillar save too.

You are, of course, correct, sir. But I wasn't so much responding to your comment as reinforcing it for the benefit of those who seem to think this tech is (or should be) "point and shoot", with very little effort or even knowledge on the part of the modeler. In my own experience, everything worth doing has in fact taken a considerable amount of work to master. 3D printing is, in the end, probably no different.

Yes sir, and of course those are your photos I copied to this thread, as I don't think most members here fully realize just what can be accomplished with the technology NOW, for reasonable money and some effort.

I MIGHT have a Revellogram Cobra still here (I've already moved many kits out West). If so, I'll look to see what pan is represented.

The current ace-number-one-3D-printing-wizard, for my money, is ACME's own Bill Cunningham. His work is simply spectacular, and has to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. Every part he printed for these 1/24 scale models, including 1mm thick body panels, engines, Weber carbs, wire wheels, and even the "tube" frames, was first designed in CAD. EDIT: According to my current understanding, the smaller parts (not the bodies and frames) can be printed with a liquid-resin / UV-curing machine that can currently be had for about $150. Prices continue to come down as resolution improves. Results like this take some serious effort and commitment, but in my mind, they're worth every minute spent learning the skills.

The stock wet-sump Ford FE engine (including the 427) has a cast aluminum oil filter adapter bolted to the side of the block. A remote filter for a wet-sump can be mounted using a different adapter, with hose outlet and inlet fittings instead of the spin-on filter boss. A typical setup looks like this. The "device" relocates the filter, but the oil is still filled through the valve cover. Alternatively, the block-mounted filter can be retained, with additional plumbing for an oil cooler. A remote-mounted filter can also be plumbed to accommodate a cooler.

I would, but they're in the 1/2 of my model stuff I've already moved West, and I'm currently back East.

Steve's correct on all counts. His work speaks for itself. Blue tape is designed primarily for water base paints on things like walls, where its relatively poor adhesion helps prevent it from tearing poorly adhered undercoats off the surface. Regular masking tape isn't designed to do crisp edges. ----------------------------------------------------- One other method: 3M fine-line green plastic automotive tapes, made specifically for obtaining clean color separations on flames and graphics using solvent-based paint. EDIT: One thing that's absolutely imperative for getting good two-toning is to make certain your base color is adhered very well to the surface. Masking over poorly-adhered paint will guarantee failure.

A few years back, somebody on eBay was selling what appeared to be sets of parts pulled from the old tool, in white plastic. I bought a couple.

Thanks Tim. Good news indeed.

Yes, while it's true you can print existing files without knowing CAD, like everything else, you'll find it very helpful if you understand how what you're doing actually works...especially if you encounter any problems.

What irked me today? A plethora of pontificating fools who run off at the mouth without knowing what they're talking about...particularly when, with a little applied reading or listening skill, they'd see they're not actually addressing the question being asked anyway. It's all too common...probably not any more common than in days past, but the internet provides so many opportunities for idiots to show their stuff, it just seems like it. Though lotsa folks get knotty knickers whenever the Dunning-Kruger effect is mentioned, some even going so far as to claim it's been "debunked", from my perspective it looks to be alive and well. https://www.thoughtco.com/dunning-kruger-effect-4157431

FROM MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE: 1) Most decent kit styrene won't permanently deform unless it's heated to around 212 F (100 C). What this means is it won't just warp on its own unless it gets that hot. 2) HOWEVER...kit parts put under stress at lower temps can be permanently deformed. What this means is that you need to be careful stacking boxes to avoid too much weight on the contents. I try to never stack over 5 or 6 high on a shelf, with the boxes arranged so the corners of the boxes are aligned to take the vertical compression loads. Packing in larger boxes to remove loads from the individual kit boxes is recommended for long term storage or transport. 3) Resin is a crapshoot. You never know how the stuff was mixed, etc., or what the temperature resistance is for a particular resin. Same goes for kit tires. Sweating out of plasticizers, surface powdering, embrittlement, and shrinkage are common. 4) Cold temps, within reason (down to about 15 F in my experience) seem to have no effect on kit styrene. 5) High humidity will ruin decals, period. The adhesive will likely be activated and they'll often fail to release from the backing when you try to use them. They may also crack from repeated cycling through high and low humidity. The paper backing will swell and shrink due to moisture content, the decal film may not be able to withstand that repeatedly, and cracking is the result. 5) Many decals will support mold and mildew growth in humid conditions. This is damaging, obviously. Some "rubber" parts will also support microbial growth during long term storage. 6) Insects like silverfish will eat decals. They'll also eat instructions. I've seen kit instructions that literally look like lace. 7) Rodents can also do significant damage. They'll gnaw holes in boxes, make nests by shredding decal and instruction paper, defecate and urinate on everything, and even gnaw the plastic parts themselves.

You have a PM...

The wizards I know suggest starting with SketchUp. EDIT: The free 2017 downloadable version... https://help.sketchup.com/en/downloading-older-versions

Yes.

I've always liked Fiats, both old and new. 3 great looking little cars that remind me why...

And many happy returns, sir.