Ace-Garageguy

The wizards I know suggest starting with SketchUp. EDIT: The free 2017 downloadable version... https://help.sketchup.com/en/downloading-older-versions

Yes.

I've always liked Fiats, both old and new. 3 great looking little cars that remind me why...

And many happy returns, sir.

Always a treat to see your commitment to quality and getting the right "look" with everything you build.

That was pretty much my point.

And people who do something insignificant for somebody else...something that's of no real help whatsoever...then tell everyone what great, Jesus-like self-sacrificing humanitarians they are.

Whatcha expect for 15 bucks an hour?

EXACTLY. YOU should be the Secretary of Energy.

Only if you're going to mail them.

A fairly uncommon mod was to weld the seams and fill them to achieve a one piece look. Similar work was done on bugeye Sprites and Triumph Spitfire and GT6 cars.

Yup, that's the one great big fly in the ointment. But the majority of the advocates of this silliness don't seem to have any understanding of the world of physical reality, with pesky things like numbers and facts to distract them from their virtue-signaling and posturing.

I'd wager many of those advocating for the banning of fossil fuels can't answer this question.

Cool. Next time I have an electrical problem, I'll spray water on it while blowing hard with a very strong fan. Should work, eh?

In response to Snake's methodology, I'll post my own. ACE-GARAGEGUY'S E-Z Guide to Great Paint: 1) Learn to use rattlecans. The photos below show pretty much as-shot finishes. The orange car (Testors) has only very minor zit sanding and polishing. The green hood is Duplicolor, as shot, with Duplicolor clear, as shot.

VERY nice. I honestly thought I was looking at shots of the real truck initially. That says a lot about the quality of your craftsmanship, realistic finish and weathering, and photography. I really love those old Petes too...trucks that look like "trucks".

Though I agree to a certain extent (having been involved in alt-fuels, including a few electric conversions, for decades), there is some "technology" that's just plain stupid. And believing that replacing the entire global ICE-powered vehicle fleet with electrics will somehow save the "environment" is beyond stupid. There's also a common problem these days with vast overcomplication, apparently simply for the sake of complication...or the designers just don't know any better. The KISS principle is largely unheard of, far as I can tell. If a framing hammer was built like what I see daily as reflecting much of today's engineering mindset, it would cost $150, have 35 moving parts, need to be updated every few weeks, and replaced entirely every few years with something even more unnecessarily complex.

I've started a small-scale mildew farm. I'm following the directions in "Raising Mildew for Fun and Profit", by Franklin "Fuzzy" R. Green.

Dang. I was gonna try running my truck on it if gas gets much more expensive.

Especially if they can wrangle enough kickback-fueled "mandates" to make conversion mandatory...

And with algebra too. Who done wooda thunk it?

I have a friend who continually asks me how to do things. Invariably, whatever I tell her, her answer is "...yes but (and some variation of "I've never done it but I know better than you do, so I'll do it my way"). This thread is becoming very familiar somehow.

At the moment, I personally feel that the Heller E-type is better proportioned overall than the new Revell offering. HOWEVER...this is not the result of any measuring on my part, but just a cursory look at both bodies in bare plastic, and photos of the models completed by competent builders. HELLER model, below: REVELL model, below (retouched):

That's pretty funny right there. The "electronic digital postal scales" I've seen lack the precision you'll require to accurately measure and compare the specific weights of "pill cup" amounts of anything. You're going need something accurate in the sub-one-gram range. I use an old-school beam scale that will measure down to .1 gram for mixing aviation-grade composite resins...and you have to use them out of a draft to get any consistent results. That kind of accuracy is necessary for mixing structural materials that hold things together that go several-hundred miles per hour and are subjected to multi-G loads. That kind of accuracy is also required to achieve color matches in the collision industry, where one color may have 10 or more pigments and toners (with which I have considerable experience). That kind of accuracy is not, however, necessary to achieve proper spraying consistency of any material I've worked with over the last 5 decades building high end vehicles...and somewhat above average models.