Ace-Garageguy

Aha. Thanks for the clarification. Makes sense now in light of the fact that the early Riv ran a nailhead.

Both of these pans are shown as OEM replacements for the 400-430-455, depending on application. This one is listed as being for the '67-'70 Riv. "and other center sump applications" (possibly Electra and Wildcat)... ...and this one for '69-'76 Skylark and full-size: There doesn't appear to be a lot of aftermarket support for the 350, and the only pan I've found so far looks like this, listed for '68-'77 Skylark, Century and Regal. EDIT: Typical problem with online sourcing this stuff is that suppliers disagree on exact fitment, but they all agree these are the two 400-439-455 pans. And the nailhead shares absolutely nothing with these engines other than the nominal bore-centers.

After seeing mod3l Lover's post on the Italeri/Testors CCKW deuce-and-a-half water tank truck, which I didn't know existed, I started looking for one. Finally found an OK deal, not as sweet as the $10 mentioned, but not too bad considering its apparent rarity.

That's the only reason I knew what it was. I saw it at its home in the Lane Museum. Definitely check it out when this pandemic mess is over,

Little car looks like a bullet-nose Stude had a kid with a Crosley.

Nice work, but the problem with the way the car is rendered here is that the engine is over the rear axle centerline. That means the gearbox and/or diff would need to be under it, placing the engine kinda high in the chassis...not the best for handling. The proportions of the car as rendered could be maintained by using a sidewinder layout ala Lambo Miura, and the high center of gravity problem could be eliminated. Another solution would be to mount the gearbox forward of the engine, like the Countach does, and run a driveshaft back to a diff behind the engine. Kinda lots of complication, and the rear axle centerline would need to be moved rearward. Or...the greenhouse could be moved forward a bit, and the rear axle centerline moved back, with a rear transaxle, which is the way the Corvette C8 manages to get everything in. I wonder what the designers had in mind.

Yes, you can definitely polish Duplicolor Perfect Match Universal Black. I've used it on real parts where I haven't wanted to get all the spray gun mess out, and it works just fine. Even lasts out in the weather, like it's supposed to. I have some pix of a bunch of custom fiberglass bolt-on parts I made a couple years back for a Jag E-type. They're on my other hard drive, so soon as I get that computer online (which will be shortly, as I need to update some build threads too), I'll post 'em. In the meantime...YES, you can polish the stuff, and you can take that to the bank. .

Seems like we're seeing more and more of that these days...

^^^ Kewl, all of 'em. I still love the traditional stuff, but the mix of styles and technologies is fascinating.

Looks good, particularly because the flutes in real headlight lenses are on the inside, and the smooth clear over-lenses you've shown do a good job of recreating that appearance when used over the old-style chrome lenses.

I think that anyone who's honest with himself, and who is capable of seeing the forest as well as the trees, will have to consider the idea that these days, people who are both smart enough and tough enough to run things effectively are in seriously short supply...and that those who possess both characteristics are rarely universally appreciated.

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

What irked me today? Pretty much everything in the news. I'm really beginning to think everybody on Earth is drinking Brawndo now.

Everything will be fine. Really.

I really have to wonder what kind of echo-chamber some of these marketing wizards live in. I know there's a theory that repetition in advertising has the power to get inside your head and get you to buy stuff, but I personally don't know ANYBODY who's not put off by a product that's constantly screaming at them. There's lotsa stuff I simply will not buy because I hate their marketing "strategy" so much. EDIT: K&N now sends me several emails a week pushing crapp I have no interest in, just because I bought one semi-custom filter from them. There's a good chance that NEXT time I need a trick filter, it WON'T come from K&N.

Yes, that's an option, but I do pay attention to wasting other folk's bandwidth...little things like NOT quoting entire posts, including all 15 photos, as seems to be prevalent here. MCM has been unusual in allowing us to post pix directly on their servers, and though they seem to have plenty of storage, I don't want to abuse the privilege.

Being that huge, they're more like 1/8 or 1/10.

Yup, or some other streaming medium.

There are a few more of the historic LSR cars out there...and though they're not all in 1/25 scale, the shapes and dimensions are there for someone wanting to scale 'em up... And of course, there are the old Hawk streamliner kits that can form the basis of something else entirely... And here... https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Local-Business/LSR-Productions-Models-History-297411047264048/

Yeah, it really irks the jell out of me that you can't turn a radio or TV off.

You're correct, of course, but I wasn't clear. What I should have said is that in a random group of cylinder heads including stock and aftermarket, it would probably be possible to find a 1/2" variance in length by design...not poor casting work and sloppy tooling. Not too far back, I worked with a shop that did extensive work with these engines, and I seem to recall seeing variations in length between 21 and 24 stud heads, and particularly longer ends on some of the unusual aftermarket alloy heads we saw. I could also be wrong...but for Casey's purposes, having that 18.75" nominal length for a head should allow him to get an engine that looks close to scale-correct.

So...pretty close to the 18.88" I derived from the photo. Roughly one to two tenths difference in 1:1, or about .004"-.008" on a 1/24 scale model. I'd say that's close enough. EDIT: Casey, as Raymond says, the ends of the cylinder heads were not usually machined, on OEM or aftermarket parts, and overall you could probably expect there to be about 1/2" variance in length among a group of factory and aftermarket heads. Some aftermarket alloy heads are also sometimes a little longer to give more meat around the end studs, for more reliable gasket sealing. Another note...the gearbox behind the white engine isn't the desirable "top shift" box everybody usually wanted.

What have you got for the length of a head?

Extrapolating from a good online photo of the top of a block with a 3.1875 inch bore, a 1:1 cylinder head is about 18.88 inches long overall.