Ace-Garageguy

I recently bought the Gunze kit, plus a couple of Revellogram roadsters (cheap) for possible donors. Couldn't find the HRM version at the time. Maybe someday...

1) Listen to Gregg Wann's advice. He does this stuff and is well known. 2) Take anything you see on YouTube with skepticism. There are self-styled "experts" routinely posting absolute GARBAGE INFO about car repairs, for instance, that are completely WRONG and were obviously just copied from somebody else who had no clue. I do NOT know why this phenomenon is so common, but it's the reality of the web. THIS IS WHY I POSTED A LINK TO THE FREEMAN VIDEO LIBRARY. IT'S PRODUCED BY THE ENGINEERS WHO MAKE THE STUFF, NOT A BUNCH OF INTERNET WANNABEES. AND...I'd DEFINITELY RECOMMEND you use some kind of vacuum or pressure system to control bubbles. Bubbles are the most common thing that ruins backyard parts...which CAN be as good as anybody's IF you pay attention and do things RIGHT. ALSO...I'dd strongly suggest you make multiple molds of the parts you think you only want one of. Mixing tiny batches of resin invites ratio errors, waste, and is just a PITA. If you can make multiple parts with each mix, you end up saving time and materials. AGAIN...pay attention to Greg's warning about resin starting to kick when you're using it, and bubble entrapment...both in the molds when you make them and in the parts when you cast them.

while green-haired

across cat hair

Off and on, I've been making industrial prototypes, marketing and development presentation models, and full-scale aftermarket automotive and aircraft parts for decades. The materials and techniques are very similar, sometimes identical to those used by aftermarket or hobby resin casters. Two companies I've had good relationships with are Freeman and Polytek. https://www.freemansupply.com/ https://www.polytek.com/ Freeman has an online video library, made by the people who engineer and make the stuff. It's always good to go to a manufacturer to get your instructions and how-to advice if at all possible. https://www.freemansupply.com/video.htm

with the jim-jam

chrome framislator valves

= death wish. EDIT: Or maybe you just like the idea of being horribly disfigured and crippled for life. I've seen valves in hydraulic jacks fail, and cars roll off of jacks when wheels weren't chocked. I've seen concrete blocks that cars were on just crumble. I've seen piles of chunks of 4X4 fall over. I've even seen welds fail on cheap offshore jackstands and drop a car. If you're going to get under something that weighs around 3000 pounds, make sure it can't possibly crush you.

Very clean period piece with the right look, as usual. The hits just keep on comin' folks.

Very cool. Interesting class. Not common seeing a flathead Ford in a Plymouth, but definitely what somebody could have put together from junk they had, just to go racing.

Agreed. And man, Spike. I envy you getting your hands in those engines. I've seen a few over the years, but to date have never laid a wrench on one. Love the big fat cam lobes on that one too. What's the duration on that thing? And do all of 'em have roller followers?

I have to give you guys credit for getting better results than I believed you really could. Not show quality, but a LOT better than I'd expected. Nice job of perseverance.

No argument here. It's not like anybody is going to put a lot of cammers in cars; well, I wouldn't, anyway. Anything I'd want one of these for would be something pretty special, and by the time you buy a couple of kits to scrounge bits from, and factor in all the time it takes to fit everything together into a coherent whole...$50 seems like a sweet deal.

^^^ Heed this man's words !!

@ afx...It looks like you fitted a plate to the rear face of the timing cover to close it off, and a slight extension to the intake manifold (on the Moebius engine). Correct?

The intake manifold from the Wild Child may have some value. The rest of it? Nah.

Yup. And I wonder why it's so prevalent. It's mentioned frequently, but a lot of folks never seem to get the memo. Another thing...cluttering up somebody else's build thread with pictures of one's own model...when it's NOT to illustrate a particular technique or part, but just seemingly to say "lookit me lookit me". Be polite. Post pix of your own models IN YOUR OWN THREAD...UNLESS, as I said, it's to illustrate a particular technique, part, or something else that will ENHANCE the build thread, rather than confusing things and taking attention away from the original poster's work.

Yup...that's the way you do it...and I do it frequently. Below, the decklid opening on thisold Corvette is being shimmed just as you describe. And now, presto-chango, my new decklid fits the opening perfectly.

DING DING DING...WE HAVE THE GREAT-TRUTH OF THE DAY WINNER RIGHT HERE, FOLKS.

Man...that's pretty. VERY nice work.

^^^ I've found some of the metallics to be OK, and some of then to be definitely way out of scale...and yes, I'm familiar with the difference between the two-step products and the huge-flake "one coat" products. HOWEVER...there may be variation from batch to batch. I haven't used enough of them to be certain...I only know that SOME of the particles are really too large to look right.

I have a Gunze Ferrari that I'll be trying your method on. It's a relatively simple build, I could possibly finish it in this lifetime, but the hood crazed badly when I shot the Duplicolor primer...and that's where I stopped.

Interesting. Last Revell body I shot with the stuff ('29 Ford roadster) crazed so badly, it can only be a rust bomb now. Killed the project as intended.

Yeah, the metallic particles are sometimes scale-suitable for bass boats, dune-buggies, or krazy kustom kars. They're not really appropriate for anything factory stock, usually, or even a normal custom paint job. HOWEVER...the solid colors work well, spray easily, lay down nicely, and when cleared and polished, look just like today's basecoat / clear jobs on real cars. The basecoats also make good interior colors, as they dry with a very slight sheen that mimics many upholstery finishes.