Ace-Garageguy

As David says, early slicks were capped on large passenger car and smaller truck tire carcasses. A 6" wide slick would be perfectly plausible. These treads are pretty narrow. Can't say for sure what the width is, but they're obviously on narrow rims too. Could be capped or shaved...hard to say.

If he's kinda thinking the mods through to break 300, he's going to be aware that a "wedge cut top" would create downforce, add drag, and slow the car down. Drag is extremely important to LSR vehicles. In simplified terms, going twice as fast makes 4 times the drag. So going 300, there's 4 times the drag to overcome as there would be at 150. But according to the laws of physics, going twice as fast, creating 4 times the drag, requires 8 times the power. Anything that can be done to reduce aero drag is of paramount importance.

Super cool. I love wild what-ifs when they're thought out with at least a passing nod to the numbers. This is great. May I suggest chopping the top? The reduction in drag up around 300MPH would be significant.

In the Moebius Comet A/FX thread, the built-up engine from the top is decidedly underwhelming, in my opinion. Several issues, the most blatant being the nonsensical configuration of the intake port runners. The rocker covers don't really look right either...too tall, too angular. On the box-photo of the engine, the sculpting of the lower edge of the valve covers appears to be exaggerated, which is common among almost all of the others available, and the exhaust port spacing appears to be incorrect as well. EDIT: Here's a thread on FORD SOHC intake manifolds. Nothing remotely similar to the Moebuis unit, which frankly, just looks like some vaguely-sculpted engine-looking thingy, done by somebody who doesn't know what an intake manifold does. http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=2692.0

It's the right FE bottom end, but the pushrod heads, timing cover, and intake are entirely different. One of my upcoming projects is to fit some of the available cammer bits to the old Revell FE, to see what will make the MOST accurate appearing model.

Indeed.

No comment.

Modified 2-barrel Holleys, mounted 900 differently from what you normally see, with somewhat unusual center-hung float bowls.

Pretty wild street ride. If a little over the top is good, way over the top is better.

Kinda like what happens every time somebody prophesises the End of the World.

I believe Revell kit #7689 came with Jim and Pam figures, though they're not great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/REVELL-1-25-SCALE-JUNGLE-JIM-MONZA-FUNNY-CAR-SEALED-MODEL-KIT/223199651171?hash=item33f7bc6563:g:dacAAOSwqS5bzhQb A company called Master Box makes a line of vastly superior 1/24 pinup figures, examples below...(male subjects available too).

I've had, at best, mixed luck buying built-ups. I recently got one in that was exceptionally clean in the photos, but had been ham-handedly "repaired" by someone with a lot of tube-gloo, obviously NOT the original builder. I've had 'em come in as little more than a collection of loose parts...and I'm always thankful when the seller puts the whole mess in a ziplok bag for just this reason. I bought a Pocher Alfa, and though the packing was marginal at best, it had been kicked around so hard in shipping that the wire wheels were all bent and the frame was actually cracked. It was NOT bagged internally, and had shed so many parts through holes in the box, I had to buy another one for bits to restore it. Die-casts, being heavy and liable to slam into the solid parts of their packing when mishandled (if they're not shipped in the factory boxing with tie-downs) routinely arrive with bumpers, brackets, and any other projections snapped off or flattened. Even the little HO-scale train cars and locos I've been buying lately almost always arrive with moderate to severe damage, most all having the couplers and railings destroyed. About the only built-ups that have come in unscathed are simple screwbottom annuals.

I didn't realize you were the same builder who did that fine looking transporter/rail dragster elsewhere. It should be a treat to see what you get out of this Lindberg kit.

A little heads-up on the slicks that are heading your way...there are a couple of versions of the same generic AMT piecrusts. The ones I sent you have slightly different inside-diameters on each side to accommodate different wheels. There is an obvious "step" inside one side of each tire. It also can help getting the rims seating a little deeper, to get away from the somewhat toylike fat-rim appearance on some old AMT wheels.

Always great fun to watch horsepower turn fossil-fuels into smoke and noise.

Funny...when I got back into this stuff some years back, the parts packs were cheap, and I bought up a lot of them. I'd been gone from the hobby for decades, and was really happy to see so many of the classics still around. Some of the asking prices now are 10X what I paid then.

It would be interesting to look at the dates of the Revell doubles relative to the introductions of the parts-packs. Many of the parts-pack bits made appearances in other Revell kits too.

The Willys/'32 Ford was also $2.00, while the somewhat rarer '28 Ford sedan single kit was $1.50. The sweetest deal of all were the Revell doubles. The parts packs they were made up from retailed for $.69 each, and you got 9 in each box...so you got about $6.50 worth of stuff for 2 bucks. 2 frame kits, 1 body kit, 2 engine kits, a tire pack, a wheel pack, an axle and suspension pack, and decals. And there was stuff left over.

The price on my original issue Ala Kart double kit is $2.00 A contemporary '36 Ford is $1.70. The Aurora double '34 Ford was $1.98. The Revell double kits pictured were $2.00. By comparison, a '61 Falcon annual was $1.39.

^^^ Man, nice clean Riv. Those were gorgeous cars.

I just happen to have that kit in stock. You're correct...the instructions call out the inclined jobbydoos on the foredeck as "rockets", and the drums aft as "depth charges". I've had best results coiling "rope" by very lightly gluing the rope end down, then carefully coiling it flat on the deck after lightly applying "white" glue (PVA). Any excess PVA can be carefully removed with a moist Q-tip before it dries. Fabric stores usually have a good selection of thread that passes for rope quite well, in several diameters. Polyester thread has less fuzz. I'd be hesitant about using thread for the handrails. The finest monofilament fishing line you can find would probably look more realistic.

Looking GOOD. I love these things. Bought a die-cast to do something similar.

Definitely a timeout, not 500. I always keep the cache cleaned out. EDIT: In the past, I've specifically cleared the cache when I got timed-out. No effect. PMing requested info. EDIT: I just tried to send 6 short lines of text via PM, got the 404, approx. 4:39 PM, EDT.

Every now and then, I'll get the 404, go back and edit the post to a shorter form, and try again. Still 404, but THEN sometimes if I try to go back to the page to re-edit, I'll just get the swirly "loading" thingy, and then the site goes away, leaving a "connection timed out" message in the browser window. Neither reloading nor going to a new window, I can't access the site for as much as a couple of hours, always getting the "site took too long to respond" message. But checking the site on one of the "is thus-n-such site down?" services shows it's up for everybody else. Now the really weird part...sometimes after I can get in again, the previously-saved-but-404ed (by the site software) post will post normally. If you need to know my OS, browser, and any other particulars, I'll PM the info. Ghosts.

A VERY clean machine. Excellent.