Ace-Garageguy

Yes sir...that's it. Always wondered what happened to it, and really happy to see it was appreciated and saved. That was the first Porsche I ever really paid any attention to, and probably would never have known about it if it hadn't been featured in one of the US hot-rod mags. Thanx for the great pix !!

Yup...4 pipes ignoring the fact the center ports on the Caddy are siamesed, and nailhead header spacing, entirely wrong for a Caddy anyway. Oops...there I go ruining the "fun" again.

Ivo built his nailhead-powered car based on measurements he made off of Grabowski's car. The Isky T, the most famous one anyway, though much earlier, lacked the now-iconic "T-bucket" proportions.

Looks like it's been down for about 12 hours. Low-res photos still show on search engines though. Server is offline, could have crashed with no warning. Stuff happens. Always best not to panic. If they're not back up in a day or three, be concerned. I've stopped loading any new images to PB since the debacle, but all the old images have been accessible for the same $3 monthly fee I've been paying from the get-go.

Looking good. Nice build diary with lots of helpful info. I think I just may have to get one of these. Thanks for the inspiration.

I guess it's a matter of perspective. Personally, I'd rather have one D, Flawless diamond than a dump-truck load of chips.

Lotsa options out there, and they don't have to be costly.

The best ones I have are made from cheap Chinese (Harbor Freight) dental tools, with a different point ground on the tip. They're easier to guide around corners than the flat-handled tools as well. EDIT: As with every tool, there is a learning curve. Don't practice on the model you care about.

Yup...as per Casey's two reference posts, it would be an easy kitbash to do a credible Kookie-Kar using the original Tweedy Pie or Tweedy Pie 2 as a jumping off point, and easily-sourced components to make up the difference. The old Revell parts-pack Caddy engine comes to mind, and the valve covers on the Orange Crate are about right (though the O-Ccrate is an Olds, they ought to fit pretty OK). Similar pickup beds abound too. It's just not that tough. Of course, on the other hand, it wouldn't be cripplingly difficult to modify one of the Tweedy-Pie tools (cut NEW steel using a lot of old data) either.

Interesting axle setup...

Yeah, it'll work. But you're not limited to only kit parts to build '57 Ford gassers. This old AMT uses stuff pirated from who-knows where (nose too high; final configuration will have her level, with the class-legal 24" crank centerline). And this first-issue Revell wagon was gasserized way before Revell did it...

Early Bond girl Honor Blackman... Not many people manage to still look this good at 90...

Yeah, that would be my guess. The tools are VERY sharp, and you need to go slowly, letting the blade tip do the work. There are quite a few YouTube videos available on the subject.

Very nice save, well worth the effort you put in.

Don't forget Revellogram's 1/16 '34 Fords.

What's your take on the Linux developers who aren't too happy about the new "code of conduct", and are making noises about rescinding some of their code, possibly crippling the kernel?

Wow. I think $35,000 US is a little steep. Maybe if it was the very last one on the planet...nah. Even 35,000 yen is $300 US. Still nah.

Those do appear to look more like downdrafts than sidedrafts, and they have stub Y-manifolds that could be used to convert a Hilborn-style injection manifold to a Weber-compatible manifold as in the photo I posted above.

The cross-ram sidedraft setup from the Accurate Miniatures kits would be cool, but it's noticeably large for 1/25 (being scaled as 1/24) to anyone who's used to looking at the real things. The carbs on the AMT '63 big-block are sidedrafts, but they're incorrectly mounted as downdrafts...again, immediately noticeable to anyone familiar with the real deal...and almost certainly wouldn't fit under your hood as downdrafts anyway. BUT...the carbs themselves...sidedrafts... are decent, and could be the basis of a cross-ram setup like the AM GS kits have, but scaled to look right in a 1/25 engine bay. Still, you'd have to build your own intake manifold.

If you already have decent downdraft carbs, you can use a modified Hilborn-style injection manifold on a kit engine...but because the little Chebby pairs intake ports very close together, the spacing of Hilborn-style manifold ports will be somewhat wrong for Webers. One source for a starting-point manifold is the AMT '55 Nomad. For correctly-mounted downdrafts, you're going to need a manifold that looks like this...and I don't know of one right at this moment.

The AM GS kits are the only correct Weber-equipped smallblock Chebbys I can think of right off hand. The kits feature sidedraft carbs, mounted correctly. This is important, as Webers come in two distinct and NON-INTERCHANGEABLE designs...sidedraft and downdraft. Mounting sidedrafts as downdrafts, or vice-versa, is as wrong as mounting a Holley upside down. The AMT '63 Stingray fastback has a set of SIDEDRAFTS mounted incorrectly as downdrafts (on a big-block). To get a decent set of downdrafts for a little Chebby, I believe you're in for some light fabrication of an appropriate manifold, and sourcing a good set of carbs from one of the Cobra kits, or aftermarket. These have been covered extensively elsewhen on the forum, but note: one set of aftermarket carbs sold by RepMin as EITHER side-OR-down is incorrect for one or the other.

Yeah, my guess would be (and I'll look it up) that they're HDPE or LDPE, neither of which should react with styrene or vinyl...but choo never know WHAT choo'll get in cheap offshore-made stuff.

Excellent points. Has anyone to date had any adverse reactions between vinyl tires and baggies?

That is VERY interesting. I'm looking forward to getting back into model RR-ing, and probably because I don't WORK in the field, and don't know as much about it as I do cars, I can accept a degree of "good enough" that I just can't let slide with model cars. I'm perfectly content with much of the vintage RR rolling-stock and locomotives with molded-on handrails, steps, and grabs, for instance, that many of today's RR guys find entirely inadequate. I'm also content with the "freelance" approach, modeling something that COULD have been (functionally), but not striving to capture every technical or historical detail absolutely correctly. Interesting...